GP On A-Body Swap Headers - Edelbrocks!!!
06-02-2008, 05:09 PM
#61
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im glad everyone likes them. i bolted mine up and they fit tight, but really good. i didnt have to remove anything to install them. im still working on my driveline angles, so i dont have them in their set position yet.
im going to run the o2 bung in the collector extension. this way i can have it ceramic coated to match the exhaust. not sure about the 2.5/3" deal. im running 3" exhaust so i guess im lucky.
im going to run the o2 bung in the collector extension. this way i can have it ceramic coated to match the exhaust. not sure about the 2.5/3" deal. im running 3" exhaust so i guess im lucky.
06-02-2008, 11:58 PM
#62
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engine mounts What mount is everyone running with the LSX A-body headers. I tried to hold the headers up to the motor and see how they would fit. I made my own mounts out of plate steel that copied the S&P design.
I was wondering how much different the headers would fit with the different mounts?
BRIAN
and thanks again for the group purchase, us A-body guys have to stick together
I was wondering how much different the headers would fit with the different mounts?
BRIAN
and thanks again for the group purchase, us A-body guys have to stick together
06-03-2008, 12:22 AM
#63
Touronhold72.. haven't heard from you in awhile.. how'z the project going..?.. Mine are BRP style and I hope to get them in within the next few weeks.. will let you know after I do.
Why don't you make it up for the Friday night cruise in at the Sun Valley Mall / Baja Fresh parking lot...!
I was at the good guys have the weekend.. did you make it ?
Why don't you make it up for the Friday night cruise in at the Sun Valley Mall / Baja Fresh parking lot...!
I was at the good guys have the weekend.. did you make it ?
06-03-2008, 12:31 AM
#64
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What mount is everyone running with the LSX A-body headers. I tried to hold the headers up to the motor and see how they would fit. I made my own mounts out of plate steel that copied the S&P design.
I was wondering how much different the headers would fit with the different mounts?
BRIAN
and thanks again for the group purchase, us A-body guys have to stick together
I was wondering how much different the headers would fit with the different mounts?
BRIAN
and thanks again for the group purchase, us A-body guys have to stick together
Andrew
06-03-2008, 01:19 PM
#65
Mine are homebrew BRP mounts using the dimensions from the FAQs. Used 1/4" steel, BB style motor mounts (short-fat)...no steering interference, and even welded the trees to the cross member before putting the body back on the frame...all fits perfectly including the Edelbrock headers. (70 nose on 71 Chevelle chassis).
06-03-2008, 01:57 PM
#67
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Mine are homebrew BRP mounts using the dimensions from the FAQs. Used 1/4" steel, BB style motor mounts (short-fat)...no steering interference, and even welded the trees to the cross member before putting the body back on the frame...all fits perfectly including the Edelbrock headers. (70 nose on 71 Chevelle chassis).
Andrew
06-03-2008, 05:38 PM
#68
Just for the record, both the short and tall mounts end up at the same height. I used the shorts since that's what I had...it just allows the HD motor mounts. Height would only be different if you mixed the fat rubber mount with the skinny frame mount. See Stealth71 thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...510709&page=14
I wouldn't be anywhere without Stealth's thread. Thanks man!!!
I wouldn't be anywhere without Stealth's thread. Thanks man!!!
06-04-2008, 08:10 PM
#70
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im with bczee. i narrowed some tall stands and used them with tall mounts. this gave me 1/2" to start with, but since i had to move the holes up the crossmember a little (when changing the overall height, the stands get further apart), it gave me about 5/8" total. this has allowed my pan to clear but most importantly, its allowed me to drop the car another 5/8".
for me, the header to ground and block plate to ground were about the same and both the lowest parts on the car. some will say that the cog worsened, but it actually got better because the motor is the same distance off the ground, plus the whole car sits lower. it also gave me a better angle on the header collector and it now sits about 1" from the bottom of the car. this will allow me to tuck the exhaust up much more than i could have with the motor sitting lower.
the only issue with this is the amount of tunnel work that needs to be done. both the tranny tunnel and ds tunnel must be cut out, but since im installing a tko600, it had to be done anyways.
now i just need to work on the center link issue. i swapped to a tom lee box and i dont think the pitman arm is all the way on. ive have a few threads showing, but at full turn towards the right, the bottom of the centerlink contacts the top of the scoop on the frame. its just a tiny bit, but its enough to scrape the paint off and **** me off at the same time. ive torqued the hell out of it and its still not going.
Tim
for me, the header to ground and block plate to ground were about the same and both the lowest parts on the car. some will say that the cog worsened, but it actually got better because the motor is the same distance off the ground, plus the whole car sits lower. it also gave me a better angle on the header collector and it now sits about 1" from the bottom of the car. this will allow me to tuck the exhaust up much more than i could have with the motor sitting lower.
the only issue with this is the amount of tunnel work that needs to be done. both the tranny tunnel and ds tunnel must be cut out, but since im installing a tko600, it had to be done anyways.
now i just need to work on the center link issue. i swapped to a tom lee box and i dont think the pitman arm is all the way on. ive have a few threads showing, but at full turn towards the right, the bottom of the centerlink contacts the top of the scoop on the frame. its just a tiny bit, but its enough to scrape the paint off and **** me off at the same time. ive torqued the hell out of it and its still not going.
Tim
06-09-2008, 03:43 PM
#71
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The new style brp mounts don’t require you to notch the frame for the a/c. the new mounts I believe move the engine a little forward then the old ones. Will the edelbrock headers still work? Wish I would have seen this group buy last month.
06-09-2008, 04:06 PM
#72
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I have had several customers run these the style headers with the 64-67 and the 68-72 A-Bodys and they all said they fit great and all you need to do the install the ls engine with the headers bolted to the motor. This way you have no notching with the GM accessories and have the needed crossmember for a T-56 or 4l60.
Thanks
Phil
Thanks
Phil
06-24-2008, 12:21 PM
#73
Install Notes. Ok, Doing my install now.. a few items to note for you guys so far for you guys that have running A-Body Swaps. I am using BRP Style mounts. Tall and Narrow Engine mounts and relocated Frame engine stands.
1) Didn't really need to remove the starter as the Instruction suggest you might have to. If you do, remember to re-install the starter and tighten the bolts before you position the header in the final location. Leave the header lose in place. One of the pipe will pass right under the longer bolt and make it impossible to get at if the headers are installed and tighten.
2) I had to loose my Steering Shaft to get the Header into place on the driver side.
3) I was able to reroute my right side O2 and use the longer rear O2. I will seperate the wires from the harness up wards a bit and re-wrap the harness.
4) Had to order a 24" O2 Extention for the driver side.
5) One tube is very close to the bell housing on the Starter location, I will have to trim the plastic cover down and may use some Thermo Tec Tape to help protect from the heat.
6) Routing of the Right side wires, I am going to get some of the Thermo Tec tape or some other wire shielding to wrap the harness, as everyway I route the bundle of wires, it is very close to some tube.
7) I have a Aftermarket Oil sender on the bypass above the oil filter, I need to extend it pass the Header another 2-3" to get it way from the Headers.
8) I am installing my O2 Senor bung in the Collector extention and having a 3" to 2 1/2" pipe added. If you do use the extention that came with it, make sure you put the two bolt clamping flange on before you weld in the O2 bung, else the clamping flange will not slide over the Bung. (this is a observation and not learn by error step. LOL)
I will repost with some picture and end results later, but this was just the mock up to see what it took to install and see where and what must be re-routed. The coating seem very durable.. I did bang and scrap the headers a bit on install. But the finish took it very well.. no lasting scraps or dings, Nice !
But so far, install is easy and had more room than the stock 99' F-Body manifolds.
1) Didn't really need to remove the starter as the Instruction suggest you might have to. If you do, remember to re-install the starter and tighten the bolts before you position the header in the final location. Leave the header lose in place. One of the pipe will pass right under the longer bolt and make it impossible to get at if the headers are installed and tighten.
2) I had to loose my Steering Shaft to get the Header into place on the driver side.
3) I was able to reroute my right side O2 and use the longer rear O2. I will seperate the wires from the harness up wards a bit and re-wrap the harness.
4) Had to order a 24" O2 Extention for the driver side.
5) One tube is very close to the bell housing on the Starter location, I will have to trim the plastic cover down and may use some Thermo Tec Tape to help protect from the heat.
6) Routing of the Right side wires, I am going to get some of the Thermo Tec tape or some other wire shielding to wrap the harness, as everyway I route the bundle of wires, it is very close to some tube.
7) I have a Aftermarket Oil sender on the bypass above the oil filter, I need to extend it pass the Header another 2-3" to get it way from the Headers.
8) I am installing my O2 Senor bung in the Collector extention and having a 3" to 2 1/2" pipe added. If you do use the extention that came with it, make sure you put the two bolt clamping flange on before you weld in the O2 bung, else the clamping flange will not slide over the Bung. (this is a observation and not learn by error step. LOL)
I will repost with some picture and end results later, but this was just the mock up to see what it took to install and see where and what must be re-routed. The coating seem very durable.. I did bang and scrap the headers a bit on install. But the finish took it very well.. no lasting scraps or dings, Nice !
But so far, install is easy and had more room than the stock 99' F-Body manifolds.
06-26-2008, 12:29 AM
#74
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bczee, or any one else who needs O2 sensor wiring extensions.I have 2 36" extensions I am not using from my Doug's Headers.Let me know if any one needs 1 or both.Paypal me a few$ or trade for? I could use a oil filler neck.Us A Body guys/gals got to stick together!
06-27-2008, 01:34 PM
#75
65SSZ06.. thanks.. but I had already order my Extention from Currrent.. hope it gets here today..!
What are you guys doing about the Spark plug boot coming into contact with a few of the pipe's. Might see if we either used shorter ones or angled one might work, to make sure that they don't contact with the boot and pipe ?
I was thinking about using the boot guard/sleeves, but it would still be setting on the pipes! any thoughts ..? different boots or using the sleeves ?
Also.. Changing the plugs with these headers were not to bad! With the exception of the following.. this relates to A-Body with the OEM AC/Heater box.. You guys without will have it made!
1) changed the plug from under the car on numbers #8 only due to the box
2) #6 was very tough to do.. ended up using a Spark Plug socket with two very short 3/8" extentions (about 1 1/2" combined).
What are you guys doing about the Spark plug boot coming into contact with a few of the pipe's. Might see if we either used shorter ones or angled one might work, to make sure that they don't contact with the boot and pipe ?
I was thinking about using the boot guard/sleeves, but it would still be setting on the pipes! any thoughts ..? different boots or using the sleeves ?
Also.. Changing the plugs with these headers were not to bad! With the exception of the following.. this relates to A-Body with the OEM AC/Heater box.. You guys without will have it made!
1) changed the plug from under the car on numbers #8 only due to the box
2) #6 was very tough to do.. ended up using a Spark Plug socket with two very short 3/8" extentions (about 1 1/2" combined).
06-27-2008, 04:00 PM
#76
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If anyone needs oxygen sensor wiring extensions,I have two.They are 36" long with the square plug.$35 for the pair includes shipping to the lower 48.PM me if interested.This is what they look like.
Last edited by 65SSZO6; 06-27-2008 at 04:06 PM.
