pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

If I remember correctly it is about a 1/4" difference between the frame mounts. The tall and narrow frame mount being the taller of the two.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Well I now have both Tall/Narrow and Short/Wide frame mounts and motor mounts. The interesting thing is they are both the same height when used as a pair. So getting the new ones hasn't helped much. I think I'm going to end up keeping the short/wide mounts I was using and add the preload plates and a 1/4" spacer between the frame mount and frame.

Some pics of the mounts:

350SS

iTrader: (38)

One thing I noticed is that my inner tie rod grease zerks would hit the oil pan at steering lock when the suspension was unloaded. When the suspension is loaded, the tierods rotate enough that they don't hit anymore. It looks to me like you were checking with the suspension loaded, so I'm not sure if this would be the same for you, just wanted to throw it out there just in case

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I think I was able to get the different height cause I narrowed my Short and Wide frame mount so that it could handle both engine mounts.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Thats weird my short and wide frame mounts looked nothing like those ones at all.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

I think these are 70-72 A-body mounts and possibly why yours are different.

I checked with the suspension loaded and unloaded. It does make a difference, but I still need a little more room. Hopefully I'll get some pics up of my current solution tonight. I might build a custom mount instead of using a spacer down the road, but I just want to get it running for now.

glocklimited9

iTrader: (3)

nice work stealth, cant wait to see it finished

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Well it took me most of the weekend, but I think this will work for now. I am still using the short/wide frame and motor mounts. I made a 1/4" spacer that will sandwich between the frame mount and the frame. I will also be using the preload plates that came w/ the motor mounts, but I ground off the bump on the backside. This gives me about 1/2-3/4" vertical lift and the tie rod now clears the oil pan.

A couple pics of my homemade BRP style adapters and my 1/4" spacers. I wish I had a fabrication shop or at least more than a 4" grinder and welder, but I make due.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Another problem that came up a couple weekends ago was my clutch. I bought the trans used and it came with a lot of parts including a centerforce dual friction and billet steel flywheel. Well it sat in the box for about a year and I finally pulled it out last weekend to find it was toast.

Heatspots:


Looks like it was never broken in and just beaten to hell.




I really hate having to do things twice or buy inferior parts to just replace them and spend more money. So I try to just buy the best the first time and call it a day. Well some more motivation showed up this weekend. I can't wait to do some 5k dumps.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

One thing to note when using spacer... (for those who have already relocated the frame mounts). If you add spacers without checking or relocating the frame mounts, the long bolt that goes through the frame mount and the engine mount, You will find that the bolt doesn't alligned correctly now.. as using space on the frame mount wll move the bolt hole closer to the center. Or if using on the engine mount, it moves the bolt hole outwards.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

I weleded my previous holes closed and redrilled new ones. By using the ~1/8" preload plate and 1/4" spacer under the frame mount , my holes moved ~3/8" up the crossmember.

So check and recheck your steering linkage clearance throughout the suspension compression and make sure to turn the wheels lock to lock. Do this before drilling any holes. When the motor is in the right spot and everything clears tack the mounts/spacers if needed to the chassis, pull the motor and drill.

aaronloveszztop

Hey man I just read your entire thread and your doing some killer work, mad props for doing all the work yourself. Can't wait to see it done!

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Got some work done last night. Painted my spacers and adapters in between Florida's summer rain showers. I also installed my new slave cylinder, an LPP remote bleeder kit and did the drill mod to my line.

Here's the LPP remote bleeder:

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

I got very close to having the motor bolted in last night, but didn't make it. I got my mounts, spacers and adapter plates mounted back up. Installed the flywheel and clutch, then bolted up the trans. I dropped the motor in and the frame mounts are about 1/8" off on both sides. I think it's because I bolted the frame mounts down before the motor was in. So tonight I will loosen the bolts and move it around some till they meet up. I hope everything works out, because I am sick of working on these mounts and I want to drive this thing.

A couple pics:

BRP style adapter plates:






Frame mounts and spacers:






Motor, clutch and trans going together:

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Why is there a plate between the frame stands and the frame? Is that so that the engine will sit further back?

Andrew

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

If you read some of my posts from last week. I ran into inner tie rod to oil pan clearance problems and had to make a spacer to move the motor up.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Finally got the motor in last night. Now to finish everything else on the car to get it running.

I eneded up using short/wide motor and frame mounts w/ a 1/4" spacer under the frame mount and the preload plate w/ the bump ground off between the motor mount and adapter plate.

Tie rod clearance:




Mounts:


Firewall is pretty close. I made a lift bracket, because I can't get the bolt out w/ the motor in.


Oil pan to crossmember clearance:






Headers on:






I should have some updates next week. I am hoping to get it started in the next couple weeks.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

How close are your headers to the floorpan now? I am thinking mine are a bit too close for comfort I may try some heat wrap or maybe heat them up and pull them down a bit.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

I still need to bump the trans up a hair to get my output shaft angle <5*. It will be <1", but the headers are ceramic coated and the exhaust will get coated eventually. I'm not too worried about it right now. You can check out Damplifier Pro. It's pricey, but I got some to do the firewall with. You could lay the floor with it and it's supposed to be good to 500*.

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/viewp...oduct=310#tab3

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Stealth.. looks like it is starting to all come together.. keep us posted..!