68 Lemans LS1 T56 swap
12-17-2010, 06:22 PM
#61
now that its cold outside im not getting any progress done but this i what ive been working on.
found a hose to loop the heater core outlets. found it by searching but it should be in the sticky section. actually alot of the A body swaps should be moved to the sticky section.
dayco 87629
im putting ralley 2s on it they are all painted but waiting til summer to spring for new tires.
pretty sure im getting 235/60R15 front and 245/60R15 rear
used a hurst shifter boot. mr gasket has a simular one for less money but i didnt think it would look as nice. the hurst has a little hurst chrome plate that would be around the base of the stick.
bought a bunch of borgeson parts and made a collapsable intermediate shaft with u joints on both ends. i have the part numbers for those if needed. i used the longer of the two collapsable shafts and had to cut both ends but it allowed me to move thicker part of the shaft away from the header where i was having clearance issues. my engine is not offset to one side or the other.
once i got the I shaft in i hooked up clutch master cylinder and line and i got the lines ran for the master cylinder and booster. for the first time ever the brakes steering AND CLUTCH are hooked up. (originally an auto) I need fluids and warm weather
found a hose to loop the heater core outlets. found it by searching but it should be in the sticky section. actually alot of the A body swaps should be moved to the sticky section.
dayco 87629
im putting ralley 2s on it they are all painted but waiting til summer to spring for new tires.
pretty sure im getting 235/60R15 front and 245/60R15 rear
used a hurst shifter boot. mr gasket has a simular one for less money but i didnt think it would look as nice. the hurst has a little hurst chrome plate that would be around the base of the stick.
bought a bunch of borgeson parts and made a collapsable intermediate shaft with u joints on both ends. i have the part numbers for those if needed. i used the longer of the two collapsable shafts and had to cut both ends but it allowed me to move thicker part of the shaft away from the header where i was having clearance issues. my engine is not offset to one side or the other.
once i got the I shaft in i hooked up clutch master cylinder and line and i got the lines ran for the master cylinder and booster. for the first time ever the brakes steering AND CLUTCH are hooked up. (originally an auto) I need fluids and warm weather
12-17-2010, 06:38 PM
#62
i thought i had better pics of the shifter boot. ill have to get more. i trail fitted some Recaro seat brackets. my boss bought them for his chevelle but i really want to have them in my car before i buy them. its an older version of the seats and its got a hoop to adjust the seat is really far forward and WIDE and it looks like it would be in the way of clutching.
i put new pedal pads and pontiac chrome covers on the brake and clutch pedal. look really good got them from Ames. put a grant steering wheel on. i have all the fuel lines ran and hooked up. used a dorman fuel line repair kit to shorten, lengthen, and install 90 degree quick connect fittings im using the plastic lines off of a 90ish impala/caprice just like the fuel tank. and the corvette fuel pressure regulator/fuel filter. i still need to trim my fuel rail covers to work on the camaro power steering pump. has anyone seen how the 04 gtos ran their cruise setup? the cable i have for the camaro is going to be in the way of the cover. did the gtos have the traction control servo like the camaro did?
i put new pedal pads and pontiac chrome covers on the brake and clutch pedal. look really good got them from Ames. put a grant steering wheel on. i have all the fuel lines ran and hooked up. used a dorman fuel line repair kit to shorten, lengthen, and install 90 degree quick connect fittings im using the plastic lines off of a 90ish impala/caprice just like the fuel tank. and the corvette fuel pressure regulator/fuel filter. i still need to trim my fuel rail covers to work on the camaro power steering pump. has anyone seen how the 04 gtos ran their cruise setup? the cable i have for the camaro is going to be in the way of the cover. did the gtos have the traction control servo like the camaro did?
06-10-2011, 07:31 AM
#66
little update trying to get this thing up and going. i installed the dash and dash pad. and one recaro passenger seat. i got a aluminum radiator and fans. its actually a chevelle radiator so i had to fabricate lower and upper mounts in my gto radiator support because they are extremely different. but the radiator support is actually on the car. and hoses connected. ill have to update with some pictures later. i still need to wire the fans im going to just wire them in parallel so they are either both on full blast or not on. and i have a bypass switch to turn them on if i need it. i bleed the clutch using the mity vac method.
i got a drive shaft made and going to install that this weekend. and get the trans full of fluid and the drivers side exhaust pipe and o2 sensor installed. really have mostly wiring to figure out and do. main issue is i dont know where im going to put my battery with no inner fenders and i originally wanted it in the trunk. but not sure how to run the cables. cant make up my mind. I have a brand new steel gto hood for it. little ahead of schedual but got a deal on it.
i got a drive shaft made and going to install that this weekend. and get the trans full of fluid and the drivers side exhaust pipe and o2 sensor installed. really have mostly wiring to figure out and do. main issue is i dont know where im going to put my battery with no inner fenders and i originally wanted it in the trunk. but not sure how to run the cables. cant make up my mind. I have a brand new steel gto hood for it. little ahead of schedual but got a deal on it.
07-14-2011, 07:33 AM
#67
here some updated pics i got the battery cables on and wiring finished last night. seats radio and speakers are all in.
im still debating on the priming method and oil type. thinking about going with mobil 1 5w30. im waiting on swaybar end links for the front sway bar and working on putting the front bumper together and on the car. might put the front valance on maybe tonight.
im still debating on the priming method and oil type. thinking about going with mobil 1 5w30. im waiting on swaybar end links for the front sway bar and working on putting the front bumper together and on the car. might put the front valance on maybe tonight.
07-31-2011, 09:02 AM
#68
thursday my friend welded mounting tabs for my impala tank in. and yesterday i installed the tank and filler neck and put 5 gallons of gas in. i installed new tie rod sleeves for clearance, filled it with coolant. i attempted to prime the engine i never saw oil at the rockers and i had pushed 1.5 quarts of oil in. so i poured all the oil in and installed my oil pressure line from my gauge. and then no crank. when i put the dash in i put the connector on my S2000 start button on backward (it can go on either way) so after messing with it for an hour i got it to crank. which was good because i did get the light to work on the button because it had some protective rubber cap on it (for shipping i guess) i found when i was trying to figure out why it wouldnt work.
So cranked it until i my oil pressure gauge moved then plugged in the coils and the fuel pump. AND no fuel pressure. the VATS is only allowing fuel pump priming even if i use the tech 2 and command the pump relay on. so checked grounds and power to pump. even ran my own wires from battery. nothing from the pump, cant hear it run, beat on tank and tapped top of sender. im pulling it out today and inspect the wiring to the pump. i have the racetronix wiring kit and walbro pump kit i got from racetronix. another pump is $120 and i read two posts about having bad ones but they had pressure or intermittent pressure and bad racetronix support. i emailed racetronix support.
So cranked it until i my oil pressure gauge moved then plugged in the coils and the fuel pump. AND no fuel pressure. the VATS is only allowing fuel pump priming even if i use the tech 2 and command the pump relay on. so checked grounds and power to pump. even ran my own wires from battery. nothing from the pump, cant hear it run, beat on tank and tapped top of sender. im pulling it out today and inspect the wiring to the pump. i have the racetronix wiring kit and walbro pump kit i got from racetronix. another pump is $120 and i read two posts about having bad ones but they had pressure or intermittent pressure and bad racetronix support. i emailed racetronix support.
Last edited by the450r; 07-31-2011 at 09:07 AM. Reason: it added a smiley to my post
07-31-2011, 09:30 PM
#69
well i figure out the racetronix problem the wires on the connector from the pump to the bottom side of the sender were flopped. it runs now for a seconds then dies. VATS is killing it. i bypassed the fuel pump relay and it still would only run a few seconds. its killing spark and injection pulse. need to find a tuner or get my own. still trying to decide what to go with and how much to spend.
08-08-2011, 07:10 AM
#70
how do you attach videos on here? i have videos of my car running but have no idea how to attach them. i drove my car last night.
i have 2 miles on the odometer. no mufflers yet and in need of alignment and new front tires. have a couple trouble codes for the electric fans and one more when i came home that actually turned the light on. i think because these codes are passing and failing its not allowing me to do a crankshaft variation relearn.
it feels great to drive the car again. The ride and steering and acceleration is unreal. did a roll on in first gear and it just goes on forever with my factory 3.08 gears. drove home in second 40 mph speed limit.
it feels like i have a caliper hanging up. my rear ones are used calipers. but it could be my eye balled alignment. if its not raining at lunch time im going to drive it to work and align it after work and put the new front wheels and tires. the brakes arent very responsive. so im not confident enough to drive the car very far. i need to align the front bumper better and put the front valance on and put the front lights and liscense plate on.
i have 2 miles on the odometer. no mufflers yet and in need of alignment and new front tires. have a couple trouble codes for the electric fans and one more when i came home that actually turned the light on. i think because these codes are passing and failing its not allowing me to do a crankshaft variation relearn.
it feels great to drive the car again. The ride and steering and acceleration is unreal. did a roll on in first gear and it just goes on forever with my factory 3.08 gears. drove home in second 40 mph speed limit.
it feels like i have a caliper hanging up. my rear ones are used calipers. but it could be my eye balled alignment. if its not raining at lunch time im going to drive it to work and align it after work and put the new front wheels and tires. the brakes arent very responsive. so im not confident enough to drive the car very far. i need to align the front bumper better and put the front valance on and put the front lights and liscense plate on.
08-29-2011, 07:21 AM
#71
got some paint sprayed on my car. i got it all put back together again. fixed some little things but its going to need about all the metal in the rear replaced. my brother is getting married in september and im going to take it to that. this is just a temporary paint job. 0 just put a little over 100 miles on it driving it back from my friend's place that did the painting and took my gf's dad for a ride.
working on getting the grills and hideaway doors painted and in. wanting to use electric actuators to move the doors but that might have to be put on hold for now. finally recieved my aem air filter and got it stuck on. need to mount the iat sensor in the intake tube. i might redo it i have alot of extra tubing now.
it drives like a new car and just cruises down the road. there are alot of railroad tracks here and i try to avoid them to keep from dragging the headers. hasnt been a big issue since i put more shims under the front springs. only complaint would be i need a limited slip and a rear gear change. i havnt tried launching it from a dig yet because of the lack of a posi. this axle has 3.08 gears and 6th gear is extremely tall even at 80mph for cruising. would like to put in a different axle/gears, new rear control arms, and rear sway bar.
working on getting the grills and hideaway doors painted and in. wanting to use electric actuators to move the doors but that might have to be put on hold for now. finally recieved my aem air filter and got it stuck on. need to mount the iat sensor in the intake tube. i might redo it i have alot of extra tubing now.
it drives like a new car and just cruises down the road. there are alot of railroad tracks here and i try to avoid them to keep from dragging the headers. hasnt been a big issue since i put more shims under the front springs. only complaint would be i need a limited slip and a rear gear change. i havnt tried launching it from a dig yet because of the lack of a posi. this axle has 3.08 gears and 6th gear is extremely tall even at 80mph for cruising. would like to put in a different axle/gears, new rear control arms, and rear sway bar.
01-03-2012, 11:18 AM
#78
TECH Enthusiast
This may also interest you: http://www.frankspontiacparts.com/us...s/gtoparts.htm
01-04-2012, 04:40 PM
#80
TECH Enthusiast
C5R 427 block
Callies dragon slayer 4.0" crank
Comp star rods (made by Callies)
Weseco pistons -8 cc
ETP 225cc heads , ported to 232cc by WCCH 2.12 intake 1,94 exhaust valves, .700" lift valve springs
Cam 255/257 .624/.624 lift on 111 +4
Super Victor intake
105mm TB with custom elbow
Stock rockers
LS7 lifters
ported oil pump
dual roller timing chain
Fuel
255L intank pump
60lb injectors
custome feed/return lines with regulator
Tranny
FLT level 6 with hardened input/output shafts
Yank SS3600 stall
SFI flexplate
Rear
3.55 gears with 30 spline axles,heavy duty posi unit
It's taking longer than expected, it is on the forum, I'll pm you the link.