Just your average Ls1/T56 stripped RX7 With Plans of Racing
10-03-2008, 07:40 PM
#44
well most of the interior is gone already. I have a fuel cell instead of a fuel tank, and I plan on removing both the front and rear bumper supports. If I get into an accident with this car I'm junking it anyway and getting another shell so I dont really care. I could also cut out the place for the spare tire.. and fibergla hatch cover with lexan rear window is an easy way to take more weight off the back but then I'm taking more weight off the rear wheels and its really weight in the front that I want to eliminate as much as possible, but its expensive to do so.
10-16-2008, 06:27 PM
#45
Got to drive it today to try and work some of the bugs out. I also got to go WOT very briefly, and was suprised at the lack of traction. I was short shifting it and spinning through 1st 2nd and 3rd
You cant really see it in the vid but when I roll past the camera I'm doing like 10-15 mph and I'm in 2nd gear I roll into it and as the car revs up it starts losing traction at the top of 2nd and into 3rd. The back end actually started swaying and snapped back into line but you cant really see it in the vid.
http://www.race2ube.com/view_video.p...acaf7364a643d3
Still having issues with the steering but I think I nailed the look/stance with the mustang wheels
You cant really see it in the vid but when I roll past the camera I'm doing like 10-15 mph and I'm in 2nd gear I roll into it and as the car revs up it starts losing traction at the top of 2nd and into 3rd. The back end actually started swaying and snapped back into line but you cant really see it in the vid.
http://www.race2ube.com/view_video.p...acaf7364a643d3
Still having issues with the steering but I think I nailed the look/stance with the mustang wheels
10-16-2008, 09:09 PM
#50
Sweet thunder makes them
http://www.sweet-thunder.com/index.html
They are most similar to the powerstick resonators
The headers at JTR longtubes which are made by sanderson
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/
http://www.sweet-thunder.com/index.html
They are most similar to the powerstick resonators
The headers at JTR longtubes which are made by sanderson
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/
10-30-2008, 08:43 PM
#52
So the rain finally stopped and gave me some sun to play with today on my day off. Still cold out, about 45-50 degrees. Warm enough though to go out for an initial drive.
Got out there and go to crank the car... NOTHING. Not a twitch from the starter. I push the clutch in harder make sure I'm tripping the clutch safety switch. Still nothing. Check some of the electronics in the car nothing. Battery is completly dead. So I bring over my other car get out the jumpers and fire it off. So it starts.. At least I know its just the battery. I close the hood of the other car close the hatch and leave the car RX7 idling while I park my daily driver. I hear a horn going off as I park my I35 (daily driver) and I didnt think anything of it cause we live next to a busy road. I get out of the I35 and walk over to the Rx7 to find its the rx7s horn just going off mysteriously on its own..
( the guy who was working on the car told me the horn doest work, it does and its pretty loud for this era car) so I jump in the rx7 turn off the car and unhook the horn.
So I know I need to charge the battery so I brind the I35 back over whip out the jumpers and hook em up. While the jumpers are on I have some time to kill so I check the brake lines, the gas lines, some of the wiring.. just make sure theres nothing obviously wrong that I should address befor going on the drive.
Last time I drove the car in the vids the car was getting sideways very easily so I checked the tire pressure while the car was charging to find they were all around 15psi.. So I filled them up took the jumpers off ater about an hour and I go to crank the car.
I crank it and its just cranking cranking canking... car wont start. I'm like wtf.. so I was just running the car disconnected the horn.. now it wont start ..I go and hook it back up.. what do you know the horn starts going off.. alright forget that cut both wires going to the horn and twist them together to complete the circuit.. try starting the car again.. still the same thing.. ok at least the horn isnt the problem (although I didnt really think it was anyway) untwist the wires and wrap them with electric tape to keep them from grounding out.
I'm like wtf is going on so I think I have gas. so I use my manual switch for the fuel pump to prime the rail and make sure it has fuel.. try it again.. nothing. Then get under the hood check my grounds, check my plugs/wires. Everything looks good. So I'm frustrated. I cant believe this thing started perfectly an hour ago and now it wont start at all. So finally after stepping away from it for another hour.. I'm like I should just put some gas in it just in case. I go back out to the car try the shrader valve on the rail and what do yah know nothing but air.
Put a couple gallons in it and VROOM started right up. Took it out all around the neighborhood and it drove nice. Even took it down to work and showed the mechanics at work. None of the gauges worked so I dont know if its overheating or anything like that but fo these short drives I just kept the radiator fan on constantly.
Car was doing great. I took it onto the main 50mph road to get home, and as speeds increased things started to fall appart quick. the rear had a good amount of vibration which got worse with speed but I was expecting it. No biggie but as I accelerated slightly in 4th. the front end started to shake back and forth some what violently. I just hit the brakes, and just a few mph slower and that stopped immediatly but it felt like the car was going to shake its self appart. Deff something to look at. So I think based off this drive if I can figure out the suspension/steering issue and get those 2 gauges working I could deff get around town with this car. Still need to figure out whether I have a bad battery though or if something is draining the battery, I am guessing the latter.
Overall a good day, the car performed well considering all factors.
Got out there and go to crank the car... NOTHING. Not a twitch from the starter. I push the clutch in harder make sure I'm tripping the clutch safety switch. Still nothing. Check some of the electronics in the car nothing. Battery is completly dead. So I bring over my other car get out the jumpers and fire it off. So it starts.. At least I know its just the battery. I close the hood of the other car close the hatch and leave the car RX7 idling while I park my daily driver. I hear a horn going off as I park my I35 (daily driver) and I didnt think anything of it cause we live next to a busy road. I get out of the I35 and walk over to the Rx7 to find its the rx7s horn just going off mysteriously on its own..
( the guy who was working on the car told me the horn doest work, it does and its pretty loud for this era car) so I jump in the rx7 turn off the car and unhook the horn.So I know I need to charge the battery so I brind the I35 back over whip out the jumpers and hook em up. While the jumpers are on I have some time to kill so I check the brake lines, the gas lines, some of the wiring.. just make sure theres nothing obviously wrong that I should address befor going on the drive.
Last time I drove the car in the vids the car was getting sideways very easily so I checked the tire pressure while the car was charging to find they were all around 15psi.. So I filled them up took the jumpers off ater about an hour and I go to crank the car.
I crank it and its just cranking cranking canking... car wont start. I'm like wtf.. so I was just running the car disconnected the horn.. now it wont start ..I go and hook it back up.. what do you know the horn starts going off.. alright forget that cut both wires going to the horn and twist them together to complete the circuit.. try starting the car again.. still the same thing.. ok at least the horn isnt the problem (although I didnt really think it was anyway) untwist the wires and wrap them with electric tape to keep them from grounding out.
I'm like wtf is going on so I think I have gas. so I use my manual switch for the fuel pump to prime the rail and make sure it has fuel.. try it again.. nothing. Then get under the hood check my grounds, check my plugs/wires. Everything looks good. So I'm frustrated. I cant believe this thing started perfectly an hour ago and now it wont start at all. So finally after stepping away from it for another hour.. I'm like I should just put some gas in it just in case. I go back out to the car try the shrader valve on the rail and what do yah know nothing but air.
Put a couple gallons in it and VROOM started right up. Took it out all around the neighborhood and it drove nice. Even took it down to work and showed the mechanics at work. None of the gauges worked so I dont know if its overheating or anything like that but fo these short drives I just kept the radiator fan on constantly.
Car was doing great. I took it onto the main 50mph road to get home, and as speeds increased things started to fall appart quick. the rear had a good amount of vibration which got worse with speed but I was expecting it. No biggie but as I accelerated slightly in 4th. the front end started to shake back and forth some what violently. I just hit the brakes, and just a few mph slower and that stopped immediatly but it felt like the car was going to shake its self appart. Deff something to look at. So I think based off this drive if I can figure out the suspension/steering issue and get those 2 gauges working I could deff get around town with this car. Still need to figure out whether I have a bad battery though or if something is draining the battery, I am guessing the latter.
Overall a good day, the car performed well considering all factors.
11-02-2008, 06:02 PM
#54
So the last 2 nights after work I've been working on the car and I havent gotten anything done.
Been cold outside and I've been working with flashlight in hand. Anyway Last night the goal was to get the battery tested to see if it was a bad battery or if I do have a battery drain somewhere in the wiring or a combination of both. Anyway the battery is good. So for now I'll just need to unplug the battery when leaving the car. Not a biggie for now although I'm sure tracking down the drain will be FUUUNN. Alright so after figuring that out I decided despite the sub freezing temps I'de take a look at the gauges. They are already wired to come on with the lights and the senders are installed.. So I would say the hard part is done for me. Now I would imagine all thats left is to hook up the senders to the gauges and they should work..:hsugh:
Check the temp sender on the passenger side head.. its a green wire.. and the oil pressure sender has a red wire coming off of it both of which of course are tucked into the main wiring harness group of wires which is concealed so I cant track it unless I split open the harness again and get way farther into it than I care to do at 10:30 working by flashlight in sub freezing temps. I check the back of the gauges and the temp gauge has a yellow wire feeding it and the oil pressure a gree wire.. so I'm figuring maybe they are just switched around. I switch them and then check under the hood one more time before starting it up to see if I left anything under there.
I get under there and something shiny catches my eye by the aternator. The ground wire going from the alternator to the chassis has come out of one of the eyelets. So I call it a night.
Today I got to work and decided to borrow a vice and crimped the eyelet back onto the end of the wire.. Should be good for now. I hooked it back up when I got home tonight. Damn daylight savings. I was out there at 5:30 and it was already pitch black and colder than last night.
I get it done and then go to start the car to see if my little wire switch a roo gives my gauges some readings. Well I crank it up and its cranking and cranking and cranking and I'm getting NOTHING. No firing in any cylinder at all. So last time this happened I had overestimated how much gas the car had in so this time I make sure to keep the fuel pump on constantly and even check that theres fuel at the rail. Fuel is there.. So the car just keeps cranking now..I went through checked all the wiring I could see just to make sure it wasnt anything obvious.. Well it wasnt. It was cranking strong too.. its just like theres no fuel or spark getting to the cylinders and really nothing has changed.. I just dont get it.
I am guessing you guys cant help me.. I'm more venting than anything else.
Been cold outside and I've been working with flashlight in hand. Anyway Last night the goal was to get the battery tested to see if it was a bad battery or if I do have a battery drain somewhere in the wiring or a combination of both. Anyway the battery is good. So for now I'll just need to unplug the battery when leaving the car. Not a biggie for now although I'm sure tracking down the drain will be FUUUNN. Alright so after figuring that out I decided despite the sub freezing temps I'de take a look at the gauges. They are already wired to come on with the lights and the senders are installed.. So I would say the hard part is done for me. Now I would imagine all thats left is to hook up the senders to the gauges and they should work..:hsugh:
Check the temp sender on the passenger side head.. its a green wire.. and the oil pressure sender has a red wire coming off of it both of which of course are tucked into the main wiring harness group of wires which is concealed so I cant track it unless I split open the harness again and get way farther into it than I care to do at 10:30 working by flashlight in sub freezing temps. I check the back of the gauges and the temp gauge has a yellow wire feeding it and the oil pressure a gree wire.. so I'm figuring maybe they are just switched around. I switch them and then check under the hood one more time before starting it up to see if I left anything under there.
I get under there and something shiny catches my eye by the aternator. The ground wire going from the alternator to the chassis has come out of one of the eyelets. So I call it a night.
Today I got to work and decided to borrow a vice and crimped the eyelet back onto the end of the wire.. Should be good for now. I hooked it back up when I got home tonight. Damn daylight savings. I was out there at 5:30 and it was already pitch black and colder than last night.
I get it done and then go to start the car to see if my little wire switch a roo gives my gauges some readings. Well I crank it up and its cranking and cranking and cranking and I'm getting NOTHING. No firing in any cylinder at all. So last time this happened I had overestimated how much gas the car had in so this time I make sure to keep the fuel pump on constantly and even check that theres fuel at the rail. Fuel is there.. So the car just keeps cranking now..I went through checked all the wiring I could see just to make sure it wasnt anything obvious.. Well it wasnt. It was cranking strong too.. its just like theres no fuel or spark getting to the cylinders and really nothing has changed.. I just dont get it.
I am guessing you guys cant help me.. I'm more venting than anything else.
11-02-2008, 07:28 PM
#55
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Just for a joke try switching the wires back the way you had them before. As for the harness I didnt even open my engine harness except to cut out what I wasnt going to use. The oil pressure wire I think is a red/yellow wire in the old battery harness on the drivers side, the coolant temp is yellow I believe but it was in the engine harness that was removed.
11-02-2008, 07:32 PM
#56
Just for a joke try switching the wires back the way you had them before. As for the harness I didnt even open my engine harness except to cut out what I wasnt going to use. The oil pressure wire I think is a red/yellow wire in the old battery harness on the drivers side, the coolant temp is yellow I believe but it was in the engine harness that was removed.
These are autometer gauges.. so everything is aftermarket
11-03-2008, 03:45 PM
#57
So I think I found the problem
And I would have never thought of it, as its kinda rare with EFI engines.
The scenario. I had been running my engine on and off and it was starting great. I was still having wiring issues but they were mainly to do with the accesories and the major systems were working well. I was working through the problems and then all of a sudden I go to start my car up last night after repairing a ground cable and wiring up the gauges and I'm cranking and cranking and cranking, and getting NO combustion. I meen nothing, but the battery is strong and the starter is working its damndest to get the car started.
I check to see if I have fuel (cause it sounds like I'm out of gas) with the shrader valve and its deff got fuel. I dont have anything to check spark but nothing wiring wise has changed since the last time I was driving it around the neighborhood.
Anyway I am talking to one of the mechanics and hes like yah know its probably flooded.. I'm like naww come on. I've never flooded an EFI engine. So I get to talking to another mechanic because I was going to borrow his tool to check for spark. He goes yeah its not as common but it happens. I told him how I was getting no combustion and he agreed it might be flooded. He was talking about how he's seen engines with gas in the oil and they totally lose compression (I didnt understand why the lose of compression) but anyway I'm like I dont think so but I'll check it out. I go to my car pull the dipstick and sniff the oil, wtf do yah know but I smell gas. I actually went back and popped open my fuel cell to make sure my mind wasnt decieving me. Yep thats the smell of gas. I open up my Oil filler and put my nose in there. I smell the same thing...
Well I think I found my problem and I'm assuming I just need to pull the spark plugs/wires and crank the engine and the gas will shoot outtta the spark plug holes and then change the oil.. but has anyone heard of this wrecking the rings compresssion in an engine?
And I would have never thought of it, as its kinda rare with EFI engines.
The scenario. I had been running my engine on and off and it was starting great. I was still having wiring issues but they were mainly to do with the accesories and the major systems were working well. I was working through the problems and then all of a sudden I go to start my car up last night after repairing a ground cable and wiring up the gauges and I'm cranking and cranking and cranking, and getting NO combustion. I meen nothing, but the battery is strong and the starter is working its damndest to get the car started.
I check to see if I have fuel (cause it sounds like I'm out of gas) with the shrader valve and its deff got fuel. I dont have anything to check spark but nothing wiring wise has changed since the last time I was driving it around the neighborhood.
Anyway I am talking to one of the mechanics and hes like yah know its probably flooded.. I'm like naww come on. I've never flooded an EFI engine. So I get to talking to another mechanic because I was going to borrow his tool to check for spark. He goes yeah its not as common but it happens. I told him how I was getting no combustion and he agreed it might be flooded. He was talking about how he's seen engines with gas in the oil and they totally lose compression (I didnt understand why the lose of compression) but anyway I'm like I dont think so but I'll check it out. I go to my car pull the dipstick and sniff the oil, wtf do yah know but I smell gas. I actually went back and popped open my fuel cell to make sure my mind wasnt decieving me. Yep thats the smell of gas. I open up my Oil filler and put my nose in there. I smell the same thing...
Well I think I found my problem and I'm assuming I just need to pull the spark plugs/wires and crank the engine and the gas will shoot outtta the spark plug holes and then change the oil.. but has anyone heard of this wrecking the rings compresssion in an engine?
11-03-2008, 07:18 PM
#58
Very nice man!! I'm doing something very similar to you! Im doing an L92 and a t56..I'm gonna check out the foam too .Does it add any weight? My buddy has an ls1 fc too, and he used the foam on the inside of the car, behind the seats where the bins used to be.
here is a pic of my progress.
here is a pic of my progress.
what fenders are those
11-03-2008, 10:23 PM
#59
So I started working on it at about 9-9:30 and I just finnished at 11.
First I pulled the plug wires, plugs and disconnected the coil packs. I then spun the motor with the plugs out and the fuel pump unconnected.. It didnt puke out any visible amount of gas so as instructed I put about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder immediatly afterwards. Thinking back on it I wish I had put more oil in there, because I'm sure there wasnt enough oil to cover the entire rings and coat them. I then jacked the car up changed the oil, put a couple more squirts of oil into each cylinder for good measure, spun the motor (hoping to work the oil around a bit and spit out any excess) Nothing still came out really. So I put the plugs in hooked up the plug wires and reconnected the coil packs and put the fuse back in for the fuel pump and left the car without the battery hooked up in case I am having a relay issue. I know I already have a battery drain somewhere.
The only thing I didnt do is change the plugs
I wish I could start it up but its 11 and I'de wake up every single person in my appartment comlex. Tomorrow morning is there anything I should do? I was planning on keeping it WOT while starting it and cranking it and praying really hard.
First I pulled the plug wires, plugs and disconnected the coil packs. I then spun the motor with the plugs out and the fuel pump unconnected.. It didnt puke out any visible amount of gas so as instructed I put about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder immediatly afterwards. Thinking back on it I wish I had put more oil in there, because I'm sure there wasnt enough oil to cover the entire rings and coat them. I then jacked the car up changed the oil, put a couple more squirts of oil into each cylinder for good measure, spun the motor (hoping to work the oil around a bit and spit out any excess) Nothing still came out really. So I put the plugs in hooked up the plug wires and reconnected the coil packs and put the fuse back in for the fuel pump and left the car without the battery hooked up in case I am having a relay issue. I know I already have a battery drain somewhere.
The only thing I didnt do is change the plugs
I wish I could start it up but its 11 and I'de wake up every single person in my appartment comlex. Tomorrow morning is there anything I should do? I was planning on keeping it WOT while starting it and cranking it and praying really hard.
11-14-2008, 07:51 PM
#60
So I'm not getting spark.
I realize now looking back, that when the car ran the pcm would prime the fuel pump for a few seconds before I would crank it.. This is normal for a car. I noticed that the PCM stopped priming the fuel pump the same time it stopped running and then when I checked spark I had none.
I went through the car today a little bit and checked all the fuses.. just to make sure it wasnt something simple. Checked voltage at the battery and it was 11.5, check voltage at the main relay which was also 11.5, I thought the main relay was dead so I powered it and checked continuity. The main relay is working.. I even checked one of the ground strap I fixed.. Just to make sure I soldered it well.
I have no ****** idea whats wrong with this car. It just stopped running. A lot of people are saying I should check the crank position sensor but like I said the fact that the fuel pump stopped priming at the same time as it stopped starting (the fuel pump works btw I can turn it on with a manual switch) leads me to believe the PCM isnt working. I am going to call my local tuner and see if he can check to see if the pcm is functioning. If the pcm is dead it would stop the coils from firing correct? And if the crank position sensor was dead, the pcm would still prime the fuel pump correct?
I am just running out of common issues that this could be. If the pcm is good and the crank position sensor is good. I'm SOL.
I realize now looking back, that when the car ran the pcm would prime the fuel pump for a few seconds before I would crank it.. This is normal for a car. I noticed that the PCM stopped priming the fuel pump the same time it stopped running and then when I checked spark I had none.
I went through the car today a little bit and checked all the fuses.. just to make sure it wasnt something simple. Checked voltage at the battery and it was 11.5, check voltage at the main relay which was also 11.5, I thought the main relay was dead so I powered it and checked continuity. The main relay is working.. I even checked one of the ground strap I fixed.. Just to make sure I soldered it well.
I have no ****** idea whats wrong with this car. It just stopped running. A lot of people are saying I should check the crank position sensor but like I said the fact that the fuel pump stopped priming at the same time as it stopped starting (the fuel pump works btw I can turn it on with a manual switch) leads me to believe the PCM isnt working. I am going to call my local tuner and see if he can check to see if the pcm is functioning. If the pcm is dead it would stop the coils from firing correct? And if the crank position sensor was dead, the pcm would still prime the fuel pump correct?
I am just running out of common issues that this could be. If the pcm is good and the crank position sensor is good. I'm SOL.