Just your average Ls1/T56 stripped RX7 With Plans of Racing
11-14-2008, 07:54 PM
#61
Looks like at this point the pcm is getting power constant but not power at key on.
The pcm is getting power from key on from the cigarette lighter which also doesnt seem to be getting power. I checked the fuse and it was good.. we wired up a jumper cable and we started getting power at key on.. but still couldent get the car to crank over.
We dont know what happened.. maybe I kicked a wire but if I did it didnt ground out or anything.
The pcm is getting power from key on from the cigarette lighter which also doesnt seem to be getting power. I checked the fuse and it was good.. we wired up a jumper cable and we started getting power at key on.. but still couldent get the car to crank over.
We dont know what happened.. maybe I kicked a wire but if I did it didnt ground out or anything.
11-15-2008, 02:40 PM
#62
Launching!
Weird problem you have there, iroinc too that you flooded out and LS1 in an RX7 
. Those seem to be cursed with flooding, apparently doesn't matter what engine!
Just got through reading the whole thread, as to your current problem, well all I can say is check the basics. Pull it in where its warm (so you aren't freezing, ppl don't concentrate too well when they are cold) if possible. You say you have batt+ constant when key off, no batt+ at crank or 'on', but also no prime when you go to 'on'? Get your autozone buddy over if he did all the wiring, he'll be most familiar with how everything is exactly laid out. Not knowing how everything is wired, check continuity from the cig lighter (which is dead?) to its power source, poss even disconnecting the B+ and testing from there. Is it possible that the ignition switch is bad?? Also check the circuit that provides the 'priming' function to the fuel pump, as you said that the pump itself is fine.
All that being said, did you ever jump the battery backwards/hook up the batt backwards? My 'gut instinct' is wondering if the ignition switch is messed up somehow, if it's original, its 20? years old.
. Those seem to be cursed with flooding, apparently doesn't matter what engine!Just got through reading the whole thread, as to your current problem, well all I can say is check the basics. Pull it in where its warm (so you aren't freezing, ppl don't concentrate too well when they are cold) if possible. You say you have batt+ constant when key off, no batt+ at crank or 'on', but also no prime when you go to 'on'? Get your autozone buddy over if he did all the wiring, he'll be most familiar with how everything is exactly laid out. Not knowing how everything is wired, check continuity from the cig lighter (which is dead?) to its power source, poss even disconnecting the B+ and testing from there. Is it possible that the ignition switch is bad?? Also check the circuit that provides the 'priming' function to the fuel pump, as you said that the pump itself is fine.
All that being said, did you ever jump the battery backwards/hook up the batt backwards? My 'gut instinct' is wondering if the ignition switch is messed up somehow, if it's original, its 20? years old.
11-15-2008, 04:16 PM
#63
Weird problem you have there, iroinc too that you flooded out and LS1 in an RX7 . Those seem to be cursed with flooding, apparently doesn't matter what engine!
Just got through reading the whole thread, as to your current problem, well all I can say is check the basics. Pull it in where its warm (so you aren't freezing, ppl don't concentrate too well when they are cold) if possible. You say you have batt+ constant when key off, no batt+ at crank or 'on', but also no prime when you go to 'on'? Get your autozone buddy over if he did all the wiring, he'll be most familiar with how everything is exactly laid out. Not knowing how everything is wired, check continuity from the cig lighter (which is dead?) to its power source, poss even disconnecting the B+ and testing from there. Is it possible that the ignition switch is bad?? Also check the circuit that provides the 'priming' function to the fuel pump, as you said that the pump itself is fine.
All that being said, did you ever jump the battery backwards/hook up the batt backwards? My 'gut instinct' is wondering if the ignition switch is messed up somehow, if it's original, its 20? years old.
. Those seem to be cursed with flooding, apparently doesn't matter what engine!Just got through reading the whole thread, as to your current problem, well all I can say is check the basics. Pull it in where its warm (so you aren't freezing, ppl don't concentrate too well when they are cold) if possible. You say you have batt+ constant when key off, no batt+ at crank or 'on', but also no prime when you go to 'on'? Get your autozone buddy over if he did all the wiring, he'll be most familiar with how everything is exactly laid out. Not knowing how everything is wired, check continuity from the cig lighter (which is dead?) to its power source, poss even disconnecting the B+ and testing from there. Is it possible that the ignition switch is bad?? Also check the circuit that provides the 'priming' function to the fuel pump, as you said that the pump itself is fine.
All that being said, did you ever jump the battery backwards/hook up the batt backwards? My 'gut instinct' is wondering if the ignition switch is messed up somehow, if it's original, its 20? years old.
First of all thanks for making it this far, I know its a long build thread
Secondly I dont think it was ever flooded. Maybe it was.. but that wasnt my main issue. No spark has been the real issue.
Ignition switch should be good. I have limited intimate knowledge of the actual wiring of the car but from what I know the ignition feeds power to the main relay (which we checked voltage at) and it is getting voltage. It is a dual relay and I checked continuity on it, even bought a new one cause I thought the last one had gone out. The car cranks perfectly well.
Now I havent had a chance to get the multimeter out and check voltage at the pins of the PCM yet but let me get even more into depth.
As I said before the PCM stopped priming the fuel pump at key on when this issue started, after I told my buddy that I didnt think the pcm was getting power he asked me if the light on the baker electronix vats bypas box (http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7erz1/id1.html#vatsmod) was lighting up. It was not lit (it used to light up at key on to disable vats in the PCM)It gets power from the same circuit as the PCM as well as the OBD2 port, which we checked voltage at and were getting 12v constant. (thats why I think the pcm is prob getting 12v constant but it may not be)
We then rigged a jumper cable directly from the ignition to power the cigarette lighter and the light on the bakers box did come on. So thats why we think we just lost the power wire to the cigarette lighter so the bakers box and the pcm arent getting its 12v at key on.
All that being said you bring up one good point. after figuring out there were battery drains I started disconnecting and reconnecting the battery cables before starting the car. One time the battery cables came close to going to the wrong posts of the battery.. they may have even touched breifly but they are painted terminals so I figured they didnt make contact, I didnt see any sparks. Although worried I didnt think much of it. Trust me this was a freak accident sort of thing I did not have a brain fart and hook it up backwards the cables are long and brushed up against the posts as I was putting the battery in the car. If it did make a complete circuit what would be the potential issues with this?
11-15-2008, 05:44 PM
#64
Launching!
The only problem I've personally seen after connecting up terminals wrong was when a salesman hooked up a jump box backwards on a miata. It blew out the main (120A) fuse. Replaced the fuse, no problems. I know that's not the exact same situation as you, but it's the most similar I've had experience with when something actually went wrong. I may have, breifly, hooked up terminals backwards as well with no ill effects, but every car is different.
At this point, if it was me, I'd figure out why your cig lighter has lost power, since that is your feed for the vats bypass and PCM. After that confirm the pcm has B+. Obvoiusly you are the one 'on the ground' so to speak, so don't take my advice as trying to tell you what definatly is or is not happening.
Hope you get it going soon, not much time left before it starts snowing!
At this point, if it was me, I'd figure out why your cig lighter has lost power, since that is your feed for the vats bypass and PCM. After that confirm the pcm has B+. Obvoiusly you are the one 'on the ground' so to speak, so don't take my advice as trying to tell you what definatly is or is not happening.
Hope you get it going soon, not much time left before it starts snowing!
01-10-2009, 10:51 PM
#65
GOT it started again!
YEhaww!
So after finding that the PCM wasnt getting power at Ign ON and Start I wired it up to a source I knew had power at IGN ON to find out later that I needed power at both IGN ON and START. So when the car didnt start I thought my power source (exciter wire for the main relay) only had power at IGN ON and not START. I check the wire and it has power at IGN on and START.. So if the PCM is getting power when its supposed to why isnt it starting. I start goin through all the posible issues crank position sensor ect. Nothing seems wrong.
Then I remember hearing about certain circuits on the car that arent meant for load and on the multimeter they'll show 12v but once under load the voltage drops but you'de never know it.
So I switched my 12v source to a place I know is sound, one of the Ignition wires IGN1 and what do you know VROOM. The thing started up better than my daily driver, like it was never down a second. I was pretty pumped up afterwards so I hooked up the oil pressure and water temp guages too.
Now that I'm unemployed I finally have all the time in the world to work out all the loose ends, and theres lots of them. The good thing is that most of the money has already been spent on most of the major stuff now I just need to put lots of hours into it.
Its been a long day but a good one
Lots of stuff planned tomorrow
YEhaww!
So after finding that the PCM wasnt getting power at Ign ON and Start I wired it up to a source I knew had power at IGN ON to find out later that I needed power at both IGN ON and START. So when the car didnt start I thought my power source (exciter wire for the main relay) only had power at IGN ON and not START. I check the wire and it has power at IGN on and START.. So if the PCM is getting power when its supposed to why isnt it starting. I start goin through all the posible issues crank position sensor ect. Nothing seems wrong.
Then I remember hearing about certain circuits on the car that arent meant for load and on the multimeter they'll show 12v but once under load the voltage drops but you'de never know it.
So I switched my 12v source to a place I know is sound, one of the Ignition wires IGN1 and what do you know VROOM. The thing started up better than my daily driver, like it was never down a second. I was pretty pumped up afterwards so I hooked up the oil pressure and water temp guages too.
Now that I'm unemployed I finally have all the time in the world to work out all the loose ends, and theres lots of them. The good thing is that most of the money has already been spent on most of the major stuff now I just need to put lots of hours into it.
Its been a long day but a good one
Lots of stuff planned tomorrow
01-13-2009, 06:26 PM
#67
So I've been driving around and have gotten a few issues resolved.
Got the Cooling fans to come on after re-wiring them like 20 times (thought the PCM gave 12v to excite the relay and than finally found out the pcm grounds it
)
Got the Water temp gauge and oil pressure gauge working.
Took it out today even though theres snow on the ground and ripped it through a couple gears, traction to no traction was only about an inch of throttle away.
Pretty fun but the thing is still a little too traction/control limited time to put the stickies on, I just want to burn these off first
Got the Cooling fans to come on after re-wiring them like 20 times (thought the PCM gave 12v to excite the relay and than finally found out the pcm grounds it
)Got the Water temp gauge and oil pressure gauge working.
Took it out today even though theres snow on the ground and ripped it through a couple gears, traction to no traction was only about an inch of throttle away.
Pretty fun but the thing is still a little too traction/control limited time to put the stickies on, I just want to burn these off first
01-16-2009, 10:37 PM
#68
My goal for getting the electronic stuff settles was monday and I think I am about 3 days early.
This was my day
-Got the reverse lights working
-Halfway through getting a headlight that is stuck in the open position working again.
-I got the horn working
-I got the stereo working
-Found out why my tach isnt working (I am pretty sure I need to get a new gauge cluster)
-Found my battery drain (When I checked the amperage drain on battery with the car off it would weirdly jump between 9.3 amps and then go down to .15 amps and then back up to 9.3 in a cycle. I was also having an issue with the headlight being jammed in the upright position. So I took out the headlight motor fuse and what do you know the amps stayed at .15. The headlight motor must have been continuously try to get the light to come down. )
I feel pretty confident I am close to being done with the electrical systems on that car and thats the absolute best feeling I've had in a LONG time. The biggest thorn in my side feels like its been removed.
Next up is some mechanical work.
Gotta finnish up the headlight job I'm working on so the headlight motor on one side actuates the headlight
-Gonna replace the steering rack and hopefully that will aid my steering issue
- Plug all holes
- Either find or make a plate with a shifter boot to seal up shifter hole
- Panel to seal the hole in the back where the sump of the fuel cell resides.
- Install short shifter
I'll leave these last 2 to the end if I have time.
- Possibly drop the subframe and do the DTSS bushings rear control arm bushings and camber adjusters
-Possibly front bushings
This was my day
-Got the reverse lights working
-Halfway through getting a headlight that is stuck in the open position working again.
-I got the horn working
-I got the stereo working
-Found out why my tach isnt working (I am pretty sure I need to get a new gauge cluster)
-Found my battery drain (When I checked the amperage drain on battery with the car off it would weirdly jump between 9.3 amps and then go down to .15 amps and then back up to 9.3 in a cycle. I was also having an issue with the headlight being jammed in the upright position. So I took out the headlight motor fuse and what do you know the amps stayed at .15. The headlight motor must have been continuously try to get the light to come down. )
I feel pretty confident I am close to being done with the electrical systems on that car and thats the absolute best feeling I've had in a LONG time. The biggest thorn in my side feels like its been removed.
Next up is some mechanical work.
Gotta finnish up the headlight job I'm working on so the headlight motor on one side actuates the headlight
-Gonna replace the steering rack and hopefully that will aid my steering issue
- Plug all holes
- Either find or make a plate with a shifter boot to seal up shifter hole
- Panel to seal the hole in the back where the sump of the fuel cell resides.
- Install short shifter
I'll leave these last 2 to the end if I have time.
- Possibly drop the subframe and do the DTSS bushings rear control arm bushings and camber adjusters
-Possibly front bushings
01-20-2009, 11:54 PM
#71
So I didnt get as much done today but still got a few things done. It was deff a hammer and sheetmetal day. I got some clean up stuff done. I fixed the bracket/arm that activates the drivers headlight so it comes up/down with the motor. Took forever. Then I made some panels to cover some major holes. I made basically a heat shield for the shifter and then also cut a panel out of the same type of sheet metal to cover the hole in the floor back where the fuel cell is.
The fuel cells sump fits in the hole in the floor that used to be used to pull the fuel pump from the tank under neath. Most of that hole was still open though untill I made this panel. Tomorrow I am going to cover the sheet metal with some peel and stick or whatever that ghetto dynamat stuff is to insulate it and get some black paint to get it to match the rest of the back.
I also went around and sealed a bunch of little holes as well as some larger holes in the firewall. I need to get some silicone sealer to fill in around the wires where they come through the firewall.
The big job left though it replacing the steering rack and I dont know if I can do it with the engine in the car still. I meen it looks like the engine is sitting ON the rack so theres zero room. I will need to unscrew the motor mounts and then see how high I can jack the engine up.
After this is done.. keeping my finger crossed, I should be able to take out out for some high speed runs. The fastest I've brought it is about 50mph and it felt like the car was it was gonna shake its self appart. Forgot there is some water in one of the tires and at about 50 the water in that tire must be spun into a tight pool and then makes the worst unballanced tire you've ever experienced.
The fuel cells sump fits in the hole in the floor that used to be used to pull the fuel pump from the tank under neath. Most of that hole was still open though untill I made this panel. Tomorrow I am going to cover the sheet metal with some peel and stick or whatever that ghetto dynamat stuff is to insulate it and get some black paint to get it to match the rest of the back.
I also went around and sealed a bunch of little holes as well as some larger holes in the firewall. I need to get some silicone sealer to fill in around the wires where they come through the firewall.
The big job left though it replacing the steering rack and I dont know if I can do it with the engine in the car still. I meen it looks like the engine is sitting ON the rack so theres zero room. I will need to unscrew the motor mounts and then see how high I can jack the engine up.
After this is done.. keeping my finger crossed, I should be able to take out out for some high speed runs. The fastest I've brought it is about 50mph and it felt like the car was it was gonna shake its self appart. Forgot there is some water in one of the tires and at about 50 the water in that tire must be spun into a tight pool and then makes the worst unballanced tire you've ever experienced.
01-23-2009, 09:54 PM
#72
So today I got the car tuned with an initial base tune just to get me around town safely, and I'm glad I did that before doing any more driving. Turns out a whole lot more was wrong than I would have thought.
It was a long day and Don at Slowhawk Performance did a lot of work for me to get things straight
Got up there about 11am, just in time to see a blown vette on the rollers
Heres the blown vette and one serious truck above it.
After fighting with the trailer for a while I got the car off and got some gas in it. Once I got it in the shop the first thing Don started looking for was a vaccume leak which he figured it had, and it did. After addressing the vaccume leak he then addressed and adjusted the throttle cable, took the intake off and tried getting the TPS sensor to read 0 when closed, something he could not get to happen. He tried a new TPS and it was still a no go. He checked the ground of the TPS and still no go. He then started going through the car and other issues appeared. The radiator overflow was hooked up to the engine creating pressure. He adressed that issue. Then he noticed that one of the O2 sensors was very lazy, unfortunatly he didnt have an extra laying around before putting it on the rollers. He then found out the car wasnt firing on all cylinders. After looking at a few things he found out one of the plug wires was junk. Theres one cylinder down and after checking out the engine some more and doing a half pull on 7 cylinders (even with 7 cylinders the car was still putting out 300+wtq at like 2800rpm) He checked the rest of the cylinders and found on another cylinder the coil pack wasnt getting voltage. He actually traced the wires back and just jiggling the wire would make the car run on either 7 or 8 cylinders. So he gave me a good place to look for where that break in the wires is.
We never did figure out the TPS issue but Don thinks if I reground some wires that it'll help.
Heres don working on it. The guy put in a solid 5 hours of work on this car between dynoing and diagnostic
Finally after working out some bugs and giving me instructions on how to address some of the remaining issues we got her on the rollers (even with the issues) just to get a good solid base tune
Ls1+Rx7+On+Mustang+Dyno+
Car sounded great but it was LOUD in there.
Heres the graph. I love how flat the torque curve is
311WHP and 325WTQ on a Mustang Dyno
Now I gotta replace the drivers side O2, re-wire some of the grounds, get a catch can, and tear open the harness and find broken or loose wires.
Big thanks to Don (Slowhawk) and I cant wait to get things adressed and get this thing ripping. I couldent get it to hook with 6 cylinders.. now lets see what we can do with a healthy engine.
It was a long day and Don at Slowhawk Performance did a lot of work for me to get things straight
Got up there about 11am, just in time to see a blown vette on the rollers
Heres the blown vette and one serious truck above it.
After fighting with the trailer for a while I got the car off and got some gas in it. Once I got it in the shop the first thing Don started looking for was a vaccume leak which he figured it had, and it did. After addressing the vaccume leak he then addressed and adjusted the throttle cable, took the intake off and tried getting the TPS sensor to read 0 when closed, something he could not get to happen. He tried a new TPS and it was still a no go. He checked the ground of the TPS and still no go. He then started going through the car and other issues appeared. The radiator overflow was hooked up to the engine creating pressure. He adressed that issue. Then he noticed that one of the O2 sensors was very lazy, unfortunatly he didnt have an extra laying around before putting it on the rollers. He then found out the car wasnt firing on all cylinders. After looking at a few things he found out one of the plug wires was junk. Theres one cylinder down and after checking out the engine some more and doing a half pull on 7 cylinders (even with 7 cylinders the car was still putting out 300+wtq at like 2800rpm) He checked the rest of the cylinders and found on another cylinder the coil pack wasnt getting voltage. He actually traced the wires back and just jiggling the wire would make the car run on either 7 or 8 cylinders. So he gave me a good place to look for where that break in the wires is.
We never did figure out the TPS issue but Don thinks if I reground some wires that it'll help.
Heres don working on it. The guy put in a solid 5 hours of work on this car between dynoing and diagnostic
Finally after working out some bugs and giving me instructions on how to address some of the remaining issues we got her on the rollers (even with the issues) just to get a good solid base tune
Car sounded great but it was LOUD in there.
Heres the graph. I love how flat the torque curve is
311WHP and 325WTQ on a Mustang Dyno
Now I gotta replace the drivers side O2, re-wire some of the grounds, get a catch can, and tear open the harness and find broken or loose wires.
Big thanks to Don (Slowhawk) and I cant wait to get things adressed and get this thing ripping. I couldent get it to hook with 6 cylinders.. now lets see what we can do with a healthy engine.
Last edited by sciff5; 01-23-2009 at 10:04 PM.
01-24-2009, 08:39 PM
#74
Cant believe it but I got an Inspection sticker today. I just decided to wing it and tried the local getty gas station run by a bunch of guys who could barely speak english.
They didnt even mention anything about the exhaust. But they asked me if it had cats and I was like "of course" and they were saying they couldent find them. I go their integrated into the headers of course you cant see them ;D Lol.
Maybe I am full of enough **** to go back into sales.
I was on top of the world I had my finger crossed the whole time the car was in the garage and I literally couldent believe it when they came up and asked for their 29 bucks.
Anyway I took the car out for its first real drive around town and it behaved well even though its 15-20 degrees outside it wasnt too bad in the car. I can tell this thing is gonna be a sauna in the summer. The car has zero traction even with the drag radials. The cold sandy icy roads arent the best for hooking. The only way I could get it to hook was to put it in 3rd around 30 mph and just roll into it and it got up to 60-70mph pretty damn quick. 1st and second gear were spin and if it got a little traction it would wheel hop (bad news) cause chances are the wheel hopping is only gonn get worse with more traction. Time to put in a pinion snubber.
They didnt even mention anything about the exhaust. But they asked me if it had cats and I was like "of course" and they were saying they couldent find them. I go their integrated into the headers of course you cant see them ;D Lol.
Maybe I am full of enough **** to go back into sales.
I was on top of the world I had my finger crossed the whole time the car was in the garage and I literally couldent believe it when they came up and asked for their 29 bucks.
Anyway I took the car out for its first real drive around town and it behaved well even though its 15-20 degrees outside it wasnt too bad in the car. I can tell this thing is gonna be a sauna in the summer. The car has zero traction even with the drag radials. The cold sandy icy roads arent the best for hooking. The only way I could get it to hook was to put it in 3rd around 30 mph and just roll into it and it got up to 60-70mph pretty damn quick. 1st and second gear were spin and if it got a little traction it would wheel hop (bad news) cause chances are the wheel hopping is only gonn get worse with more traction. Time to put in a pinion snubber.
01-25-2009, 12:14 PM
#78
It kinda works. Changing the spark plug brought us from 6 to 7 and thats when we did the first half pull then he saw the car still wasnt on all 8 cylinders. Checked the header primaries and another one was cold. Replaced the coil pack and it was still not firing on that cylinder I think he just like played with the connector and the exhaust note changed as that coil pack started firing. Tested that primary and it was then hot. So we then knew it was the wiring to the coil pack, somewhere between the coil pack and the pcm there is a loose connection in that wire so I gotta dig it out and fix it. I know when its running on 7cyl because it will start backfiring slightly like it used to. When the pull was done it was on 8cyl but the tune is still safe because of the other issues with the car. Really I just wanted it to be safe untill I resolve the issues with the car. I still need to figure out how to drive this thing the way it is before bringing it back to don and having him pull the max amount of power out of it
Last edited by sciff5; 01-25-2009 at 12:31 PM.
01-29-2009, 07:54 PM
#79
Got some more wiring done today.
After getting out of the tuner I was given a list of things to do to hopefully resolve a couple issues.
One of the power wires going to one of the injectors was giving us a spotty connection and thus I was running on either 7 or 8 cylinders depending. We also had an issue we couldent resolve which was my TPS was reading 4% throttle at idle. We went through all the usual stuff loosening the throttle cable, making sure the tb wasnt sticking ect. We replaced the TPS and tried rotating it. Nothing helped.
Don (the tuner) didnt like the full lengeth ground wire I had running through the car and generally my grounds. He felt that configuration might be backfeeding current into the ground creating higher voltage reading than there should be (maybe I'm explaining it wrong I am just trying to repeat what he said) Anyway he told me to ditch the full length ground ( I didnt do that anyway) change the position of the engine ground strap and then run a few good battery ground straps. Also he thought that some wires probably got crushed when I put the engine in I exposed the entire wiring harness today and boy oh boy what a bunch of pretty colors (snifffin too much gas in the garage). I actually did have a few crushed wires but none were broken just some bare copper here and there. I covered them up so they didnt ground out. I also checked the wire for that injector and again it looked good other than having the sheathing stripped off a bit in a section (guess it was grounding out) I covered that up.
Started it back up and the TPS is reading 2% now at idle compared to 4% before which is a good start but we're still not there. Idle is now about 850rpm. Trying to get it down to 700rpm.
I then replaced the drivers side O2 which was bad, fixed the bad ground on the oil pressure sensor, took the steering wheel off and re centered it, and also installed the shifter boot.
Basically just tying some crap up, engine is running great though.. like always it seems like with my swap its easier to put an ls1 in another car and make it run well.. its more fixing all the issues with this particular car that is always slowing me down. We're getting through it though.
Goal is to go to drive the car to SNS (seven not stock in Indianapolis) have fun, race, and then drive it home.
After getting out of the tuner I was given a list of things to do to hopefully resolve a couple issues.
One of the power wires going to one of the injectors was giving us a spotty connection and thus I was running on either 7 or 8 cylinders depending. We also had an issue we couldent resolve which was my TPS was reading 4% throttle at idle. We went through all the usual stuff loosening the throttle cable, making sure the tb wasnt sticking ect. We replaced the TPS and tried rotating it. Nothing helped.
Don (the tuner) didnt like the full lengeth ground wire I had running through the car and generally my grounds. He felt that configuration might be backfeeding current into the ground creating higher voltage reading than there should be (maybe I'm explaining it wrong I am just trying to repeat what he said) Anyway he told me to ditch the full length ground ( I didnt do that anyway) change the position of the engine ground strap and then run a few good battery ground straps. Also he thought that some wires probably got crushed when I put the engine in I exposed the entire wiring harness today and boy oh boy what a bunch of pretty colors (snifffin too much gas in the garage). I actually did have a few crushed wires but none were broken just some bare copper here and there. I covered them up so they didnt ground out. I also checked the wire for that injector and again it looked good other than having the sheathing stripped off a bit in a section (guess it was grounding out) I covered that up.
Started it back up and the TPS is reading 2% now at idle compared to 4% before which is a good start but we're still not there. Idle is now about 850rpm. Trying to get it down to 700rpm.
I then replaced the drivers side O2 which was bad, fixed the bad ground on the oil pressure sensor, took the steering wheel off and re centered it, and also installed the shifter boot.
Basically just tying some crap up, engine is running great though.. like always it seems like with my swap its easier to put an ls1 in another car and make it run well.. its more fixing all the issues with this particular car that is always slowing me down. We're getting through it though.
Goal is to go to drive the car to SNS (seven not stock in Indianapolis) have fun, race, and then drive it home.
Last edited by sciff5; 01-29-2009 at 08:03 PM.
01-29-2009, 08:16 PM
#80
so youre the *** that striped out that trans am. haha i saw that car at brandy brows hoping i would find a nose for my car. when i saw the rear end was hit i litterally went running through the yard hoping to find at least a fender.....i was bumbed when i saw everything was gone.... glad to see the engine and trans went to a good home. and thats a sick rx7 ya got there.