Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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VVT-equipped L92 into my '89 Trans Am GTA (with pics)

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Old 05-20-2013, 05:54 AM
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I would use a time-sert repair. It will require a kit, and depending on the thread size I may be able to lend you one. You will have to drill out that bolt hole, then tap it a larger size, then take the threaded repair insert and thread it into the larger hole with loctite red on it and use a tool to run the insert all the way in. Then you will have a repair that can torque to factory specs with no concern.

Mark
Old 05-20-2013, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by subtlez28
That sucks!

You know when I put on my LS7 flywheel, I found a pack of GM flywheel bolts the seller thought he had lost. I decided to use them rather than the ARP bolts I had purchased. Do you think the difference is that the GM bolts stretch?
Could be, I don't know... I would've thought that either one would be an OK choice...
Old 05-20-2013, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Marky522
I would use a time-sert repair. It will require a kit, and depending on the thread size I may be able to lend you one. You will have to drill out that bolt hole, then tap it a larger size, then take the threaded repair insert and thread it into the larger hole with loctite red on it and use a tool to run the insert all the way in. Then you will have a repair that can torque to factory specs with no concern.

Mark
Thanks for the suggestion Mark, I appreciate it. Isn't that essentially the same thing as a heli-coil?? Would that actually hold up to the rotational forces, & shocks like drag racing, etc??

I guess I'd be OK with using a heli-coil on the block (like to hold a water pump or maybe a cylinder head on), but will it really stand up to those forces??

Thanks again.
Old 05-20-2013, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by V8Rumble
Thanks for the suggestion Mark, I appreciate it. Isn't that essentially the same thing as a heli-coil?? Would that actually hold up to the rotational forces, & shocks like drag racing, etc??

I guess I'd be OK with using a heli-coil on the block (like to hold a water pump or maybe a cylinder head on), but will it really stand up to those forces??

Thanks again.
No- heli-coil will take very little torque- I'm on my phone so can't post a pic- but if you google time-sert vs helicoil you will understand. And regarding the question of will a time-sert take the forces- if you ever strip out a block time-sert makes kits for head bolts etc. where a heli-coil is just a coil of wire a time-cert is a solid insert that is threaded both on the inside and out side. It is also not quite round on the outside so once its completely tightened down with the special insert tool it is mechanically bound in, I also use red loctite to make sure it never unthreads with the bolt. I work on Porsche's every day and if I have the correct threaded kit to match I will basically be loaning you a Porsche special tool kit, each kit is like $1500-$2500 and Porsche specifies once the repair is complete to torque it as normal.

Mark
Old 05-20-2013, 08:15 AM
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This sounds like good news!

The way Mark explains it will be as strong as before. Plus, again, there are 5 others there to handle all the force.
Old 05-20-2013, 08:16 AM
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WOW... OK, you certainly sounded like you deal with this stuff on a regular basis. Thank you!! I'll look that up.

Guess maybe I won't price out a stroker crank today after all...
Old 05-20-2013, 10:33 PM
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OK, so I've checked out the time-sert type of repair as opposed to the heli-coil, & I see what the difference is - the way that I understand it, the time-sert is more of a single-piece, heavier-duty fix (that's a bit oblong, so there's a much better chance that it'll stay in place), whereas the heli-coil is more of a "strand of wire". (That might be a bit of an exaggeration, but I believe the basic concept is correct.)

I also called up one of the better machine shops in the metro area, they're apparently the "go-to shop" for a lot of the roundy-round racers, as well as several of the drag race guys. The guy that I spoke with told me that the time-sert should be plenty effective to repair that. I asked him specifically about dragstrip launches & high RPMs, & he said that it'd probably be stronger than the crankshaft material itself...

So... It certainly SOUNDS like this is a completely reasonable approach to fixing the problem. Mark, if you're still willing to help me out like that (and if you're ABLE to, I certainly understand that as well!), please shoot me a PM, & hopefully we can work something out.

And again - THANK YOU.
Old 05-22-2013, 07:30 AM
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Anyone happen to know off-hand what size bolts are used to bolt the flywheel to the crank?? The package that contained my new bolts was unmarked...

Thanks guys.
Old 05-22-2013, 07:42 AM
  #289  
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Ouch. You cant win with this trans mating up it seems. Interesting comment re the heli coil I got into discussion about those on another board as im not really a fan either ( had one fail ) but those time sert pieces look stout.

Just be sure to drill straight as an arrow when you do this. Might want to double check all the other holes while your at it. After you remove the flywheel make sure all the bolts thread up easy by hand before moving forward.
Old 06-01-2013, 12:36 PM
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OK, on the other thread that I recently posted (asking about the size/thread-pitch of these bolts), someone suggested that it would really be a good idea to have a machine shop perform the repair. And the more I thought about it, the more sense that made to me. Machine shop that I trust isn't able to do it (doesn't have the tools), & they don't know anyone who does.

So I took a different tack, & asked how much they'd charge for labor if I brought the engine in & had 'em replace the crank. He guessed six or seven hours of labor at $80/hr.

I woke up this morning feeling like I'd just had a BELLYFUL of this horse$#it. I have enough OTHER crap going on right now that I REALLY don't need to add gratuitous BS on top of it. Going to be spending a fair part of the day today deciding if I'm going to part this bitch out.

I still have a crate for the engine, so I'd consider shipping that, but I'm not going to ship the transmission or the rear end. I've already contacted one of my local thirdgen buds who's just starting an LS swap & told him that I'm considering this, & that he gets first shot at the transmission which will include the clutch, flywheel, PP, remote bleeder, pedals, hydraulics, & whatever other crap I don't remember right now. But aside from the trans & rear end, I'm very probably open to disassembling & shipping everything else.

I haven't made the decision yet, but that's how I'm leaning right now. I'm <bleeping> sick of having EVERYTHING on this g****mn piece of **** be an uphill battle.

Last edited by V8Rumble; 07-18-2014 at 11:16 PM.
Old 06-01-2013, 01:59 PM
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You sound like I felt in January when I took a quick spin in the Cutlass w/o the hood pins locked--and then the hood goes airborne! Not a good feeling. Nor do I feel particularly good right now since I can't downshift into 5th for some reason and the trans may have to come out for the second time when I've only gone 500 miles since firing it up! Hang in there!

Let it sit for a week and go do something else; don't make any any decision in the near term while you're still mentally in the "kicked in the gut" mode.

This is not going to beat you! Maybe today, but not in the end....
Old 06-01-2013, 05:12 PM
  #292  
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These types of builds are never easy, NEVER. I can sure understand the frustration Ive been there before ( in fact im there again now but thats another story )

Take some time as mentioned and come at it with a cooler perspective. Its been a long road and a lot of hours in. The first 1000 hrs of a car build are fun. The middle 500 are hell. The final 200 are blissful because you can actually see the end. Id say your in the 500 zone

Best of it whichever way you go its been a great build to follow for sure!
Old 06-01-2013, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cam
These types of builds are never easy, NEVER. I can sure understand the frustration Ive been there before ( in fact im there again now but thats another story )

Take some time as mentioned and come at it with a cooler perspective. Its been a long road and a lot of hours in. The first 1000 hrs of a car build are fun. The middle 500 are hell. The final 200 are blissful because you can actually see the end. Id say your in the 500 zone

Best of it whichever way you go its been a great build to follow for sure!
Thanks Cam, I do appreciate it. Just don't know which way I'm going to go at this point...
Old 06-01-2013, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Goldhawg
Let it sit for a week and go do something else;
Yeah, that's what the wife's said as well. Problem is, I've been feeling this way since well before the bolt stripped. No point in going into everything that's contributing to this decision, but it's NOT a spur-of-the-moment decision... A LARGE part of it is people that will SAY they'll help you with something, & leave you hanging high & dry when you've taken them at their word...

Also - my apologies for "going off" as I did a couple of posts ago. I had to have a much-loved pet euthanized at 2:00 this morning, & I'm just feeling pretty raw...

Originally Posted by Goldhawg
This is not going to beat you! Maybe today, but not in the end....
Thanks for the kind words man, I guess we'll see.
Old 06-02-2013, 11:32 AM
  #295  
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OK, still not quite sure where to go with this, but getting a little bit of distance has helped to tamp down the urge to call a junkyard. Was chatting with a friend this morning when I realized something...

Pretty convinced that MINE hates me as well. I've decided that it's not so much "Christine" as it is the automotive equivalent of the psycho girlfriend. ****. I'm in an abusive relationship with Sybil...
Old 06-02-2013, 11:50 AM
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Going solo all the time can be painful. I was stuck on my first LS swap years back as work was intensely busy and I didnt feel I had the energy to give to the car so it was dragging badly but I simply couldnt bear the thought of leaving it in pieces and/or selling it off it meant too much to me. So i hired my nephew who was 13 at the time to come work with me on weekends. We didnt work every weekend but most. It was a great experience for us both we had a blast and he learned much. He has since gone on to build quite a few impressive machines using LS power.

Anyways ramble aside perhaps hiring a young local apprentice/helper for cheap might be just the ticket here? If nothing else it will force you to schedule working on it and you'll be a lot less apt to say fukitol and not work on it when your paying someone to be there. Just a thought that might help bring some spark back into this for ya as its always nice to have a second pair of hands to fetch tools and move things about and do the menial tasks that no one wants to do ( ie sweep floor etc )
Old 12-05-2013, 11:55 PM
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So, whats the status now brother?

I was thinking of your situation the other day when watching a video on LS stroker cranks...

Please, tell me this build is still happening, and with a 6 speed!
Old 12-05-2013, 11:55 PM
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So, whats the status now brother?

I was thinking of your situation the other day when watching a video on LS stroker cranks...

Please, tell me this build is still happening, and with a 6 speed!
Old 02-22-2014, 11:20 AM
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Sorry that I haven't been around, kind of lost the enthusiasm somewhat.

Also, the machine shop that I took it to changed their mind & decided that they don't want to do the work after all - which was freakin' WONDERFUL, because I had to really wrestle with the engine to get it in & out of my truck bed (it has a spray-in bed liner that does NOT allow things to slide around easily). Tweaked my wrist a little bit, initially thought that it was just a sprain, so I treated it like one.

When it was still bugging me a couple months later, I went to see the Dr. that I had at the time. She took x-rays, didn't see anything, so gave me some anti-inflammatory pills, told me to ice it twice a day & wear a wrist brace. Followed that routine for a couple more months, & while that helped, it didn't get me back to normal.

Switched back to the Dr. that had prior to the one above (don't want to type it all out, but there were other reasons that we weren't happy with the female doc), & HE immediately remembered something, & zeroed in on what ultimately turned out to be the root of the problem - while wrestling with the engine, I had sustained a torn ligament in my wrist. Between the Dr. visits, the treatments that failed, the tests that I underwent, & the surgery that finally fixed it a couple weeks ago, I've lost a good part of the use of my hand for the better part of a year - and in fact, I've had to type all of this out using just one. Currently targeting mid-April as the date when I should be back to full use again. Wish me luck. :p
Old 02-22-2014, 01:25 PM
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Good luck and get well. I'm biting at the bit to get my VVT L92 '92 vette back out from winter storage. I drive it everyday until the first snow fall, it's almost better than sex


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