Stock radiators ok in LS swaps?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 135
Likes: 2
From: Austin, Texas
Stock radiators ok in LS swaps? Trying to get some more opinions on what radiators can be used with my 5.3. Going into 84 C10 Chevy. pcmcobra has helped alot and said he's running stock 87 radiator. My friend is telling me up & dwn if I don't run a Double Pass rad it will overheat. Problem here is $$$. I'd luv to buy a nice all aluminum $650 radiator but cant afford that. Not even sure what "double-pass" is actually referring to? Summit sells a Griffin rad #GRI228185X for $280 but its tiny. Suggestions very welcome!
Your going to get a lot of opinions.. some will say its ok, others will say your going to over heat.
Depending on your engine HP output.. Stock or modified.. Also, where do you live.. 75 deg summer or 110+ ? How do you drive it ?
If near stock, you should be ok as long as you are getting good air flow to the radiator and that the rest of your cooling system is in good working order (FAN, T-Stat). You might be ok with just a upgrade to a high CFM fan or a double unit if you don't already have duel fans.?
If you have a cam and high compression piston/heads, you might want to look into one of those aluminum units.
A double pass unit is nice, but may not be needed, a good Alum 2 roll 1" (oval) tube should be more than enough for your stocker or mid bolt ons.
Depending on your engine HP output.. Stock or modified.. Also, where do you live.. 75 deg summer or 110+ ? How do you drive it ?
If near stock, you should be ok as long as you are getting good air flow to the radiator and that the rest of your cooling system is in good working order (FAN, T-Stat). You might be ok with just a upgrade to a high CFM fan or a double unit if you don't already have duel fans.?
If you have a cam and high compression piston/heads, you might want to look into one of those aluminum units.
A double pass unit is nice, but may not be needed, a good Alum 2 roll 1" (oval) tube should be more than enough for your stocker or mid bolt ons.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 135
Likes: 2
From: Austin, Texas
Well the last thing I want is this thing to be running hot. I'm, in Austin, Texas and we see 100+ all the time. I am planning on running dual electric fans tho so I guess that would help. Engine is stock for now but plan for cam/headers later on.
I'm running a stock-style 4-row brass radiator with LS1 fans in my '68 Camaro, running the AC, on a 92F day, with the top down, sitting in traffic, and the coolant temp stayed right around 205F.
I'd give it a try. Make sure you get all of the air out of the system--that seems to be the main cause of overheating on these engines.
Hook 'em!
I'd give it a try. Make sure you get all of the air out of the system--that seems to be the main cause of overheating on these engines.
Hook 'em!
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 305
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You should be Ok, just make sure the fans come on early. Do the fans have a shroud that cover the radiator?
If this set up still runs warm, then try higher cfm fans; SPAL or a first gen Viper fan are good options.
If this set up still runs warm, then try higher cfm fans; SPAL or a first gen Viper fan are good options.
Actually an 86 radiator 
in my 86, I also have a set of ls1 efans...
Go with electric fans...I think I have $175 in my fan setup only because I used a controller when I had the 305 in there. I'm ditching the controller as soon as I get off my lazy **** and wire them up to the pcm.
All my miles are "city" miles in the Florida heat. No problems.
Good luck!
in my 86, I also have a set of ls1 efans...Go with electric fans...I think I have $175 in my fan setup only because I used a controller when I had the 305 in there. I'm ditching the controller as soon as I get off my lazy **** and wire them up to the pcm.
All my miles are "city" miles in the Florida heat. No problems.
Good luck!
I am running the same radiator and fans I was using with a mild 350 and it never gets above 210, even in heavy traffic @ 100+ degrees with AC on. Typically it runs right on 180 which is what the thermostat is. If you have the V8 radiator for your truck and it's in good shape I would try it first before spending any $$.
Pat
Pat
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im runing the stock radiator that came with my 305/t400. i put on flex-a-lite slimline fans to give room for the procharger. with the retune im @ 14lbs of boost. i have`nt had a single issue with it.
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stock ls1 radiator and fans. dead of summer buzzing on the highway or sitting in traffic its never gotten over 210. anything under 90 degree weather it runs 180 even beating on it.
in the winter months, i have to unplug a fan. haha.
in the winter months, i have to unplug a fan. haha.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 135
Likes: 2
From: Austin, Texas
I've got a line on a set of 07 electric dual fans cheap-I could buy a stock 07 radiator from rock auto for around $200. I don't think this radiator has the cap on it instead having I guess a remote fill? The other issue is that the core support on my 84 is for a 28" core and the core in the 07 is 34". Would the slight obstruction of the core support kill cooling performance? I was thinking since the seal to the radiator would be a factory fit it would still pull a lot of air through. Should I ditch the stock 07 fan idea & cough up the cash for a set of fans to fit an older style radiator or is this feasible?
There are a lot of fan sets that will work. Ford Taurus fans are quite popular as are the original F Body fans and shroud. Take your tape measure out to Pick n Pull and start "shopping". That's the less expensive traditional hot rodding way. Or you can look for aftermarket fans from SPAL or other sources. These motors are not hard to cool.
Pat
Pat
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 135
Likes: 2
From: Austin, Texas
I was thinking about using the 07 fans one for price ($25) and 2 b/c duals have to pull more air. So maybe it'd be easier to just find different fans and run the stock type radiator. Trying to be cheap (i know, i know) and also keep it cool -stock 07 rad & fans w/ 07 motor.
I think that your friend is mistaken. Unless there's something about your setup that's unusual (ways for air to go around the radiator, fins blocked/plugged, etc.), the stock radiator should be at least adequate up to 400, 450 hp, maybe more...
In other words, don't spend the money on THAT until you know that it's needed...
Good luck.
In other words, don't spend the money on THAT until you know that it's needed...
Good luck.
I am running a 4 core big block C3 radiator in my car... with dual LT1 camaro fans. never had a issue. stock LS2 water pump.
I just got a light weight 2 core Al radiator that will be going in shorty. Says 30% higher cooling than what I have now. We will see.
I just got a light weight 2 core Al radiator that will be going in shorty. Says 30% higher cooling than what I have now. We will see.
Just get the biggest "towing package, big block"
that fits the body and you'll be good. Add an
electric fan that is thermostat controlled off the
radiator outlet.
The LSx are way more efficient than older iron
motors so throw less heat for the same power.
But they can make a lot more power. Not going
to equal a big block pulling a load and slipping
a non-overdrive automatic converter, though.
that fits the body and you'll be good. Add an
electric fan that is thermostat controlled off the
radiator outlet.
The LSx are way more efficient than older iron
motors so throw less heat for the same power.
But they can make a lot more power. Not going
to equal a big block pulling a load and slipping
a non-overdrive automatic converter, though.
Stock LT1 fbody radiator and fans here. No over heating problems at all. I can almost drive all 17 miles to work in 50 degree weather without even turning the fans on (before it get to 210). The lt1 and ls1 radiators (the same pretty much) were designed to run completely blocked from airflow almost. having an open grill is going to force much more air through them even without the fans running than they would normally see.
i had a hole in my radiator and fumbled across a part# from proliance (ready rad) its available at advance, autozone and summit 432399 is the part #.
its for an lt1, but fits ls1 as well. its 1 3/8 thick, where some of the other brands are only 15/16 or 1" specifics would be a 1994 chevy camaro z28 for reference.
ive got a stock ls1 rad here, and its twice as thick. lil more weight, but for cooling, ill get rid of a pound or two elsewhere.
its for an lt1, but fits ls1 as well. its 1 3/8 thick, where some of the other brands are only 15/16 or 1" specifics would be a 1994 chevy camaro z28 for reference.
ive got a stock ls1 rad here, and its twice as thick. lil more weight, but for cooling, ill get rid of a pound or two elsewhere.
Haha totally off topic but just thought it was funny as i took a 96 tacoma radiator out today from my friends truck and he and i put it on our 1952 Harry Furgesson tractor since the new radiators were $200. we had to remove the hood of course, the belt driven fan but installed a new electric fan on it. Here's a laugh for the day (we needed to bushhog something and needed a radiator for it)