LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Late night beery wiring...
TAC module stacked on ECM
I originally had the ECM mounted right were the glovebox should be (was lazy and made it easy to bolt in) spent some more time and tried to tuck it away as much as possible. Fits directly behind/above the ashtray...
Guess I'll suck up the labour and sand down & paint the metal dash, guess it's obvious what the original color was... and how lazy the previous owner was... and their lack of care (spotty black paint and lots of runs). Oh well here is the ECM tucked away...
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
All engine and body harness wiring is in and hooked up, going to sand and paint the metal dash tonight then the gauge panel, steering column, seats, etc can all go in for good.
I've been guaranteed that the 4link will be ready for me to pick up on Monday, so once that is installed I can run the fuel lines and put the gas tank in for good, and hopefully fire it up!
All that's left to do before the engine can be fired is a bracket to hold the oil cooler to the rad support, behind the driver-side headlight, and then run the oil lines. As well as finish bending the fuel hardline to the tank. And of course fill it with coolant and oil!
Turns out the original clutch master bracket I made was flexing a bit under full pedal depression, so I cut the backing plate off it, welded on a new 1/8"-thick backing plate, and then some sheetmetal supports. Shouldn't flex at all now. Like prettymuch everything I've made on this car, it just ends up getting modified or re-done better. Such is the process of learning!
I've been guaranteed that the 4link will be ready for me to pick up on Monday, so once that is installed I can run the fuel lines and put the gas tank in for good, and hopefully fire it up!
All that's left to do before the engine can be fired is a bracket to hold the oil cooler to the rad support, behind the driver-side headlight, and then run the oil lines. As well as finish bending the fuel hardline to the tank. And of course fill it with coolant and oil!
Turns out the original clutch master bracket I made was flexing a bit under full pedal depression, so I cut the backing plate off it, welded on a new 1/8"-thick backing plate, and then some sheetmetal supports. Shouldn't flex at all now. Like prettymuch everything I've made on this car, it just ends up getting modified or re-done better. Such is the process of learning!
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
On the last legs of finishing up the wiring for the car, last part is the battery and getting rid of all the sound system ****... popped the trunk for the first time since mid-2008!
Was too lazy to start ripping into that crap so decided to make a stealth boost controller thingy out of the ashtray...
Last but not least, big milestone for me in the project, interior is fully wired (just need to tuck excess) and dash is in!!
Was too lazy to start ripping into that crap so decided to make a stealth boost controller thingy out of the ashtray...
Last but not least, big milestone for me in the project, interior is fully wired (just need to tuck excess) and dash is in!!
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
It needs more switches and indicator lights, maybe something overhead, and where are the altimeter and accelerometer?
Awesome work as always. Stop being such an over achiever.
Awesome work as always. Stop being such an over achiever.
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Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
It has been a lonnnnng time since I've ripped into a shipment of parts as quickly or with as much excitement as I did these guys tonight... maybe it's because I can look forward to finally installing something on my car that doesn't take hours upon hours of fabrication on my end.
Lower links installed tonight without a hitch, tomorrow night will lower the diff and mock up the upper links and shock cradle to check ride height.
I hate to say it, but I know I can't leave well enough and if this setup simply sits way too high (been mentioned a couple times on pro-touring.com & lateral-g.net), I might (z'd?) the upper shock cradle into the trunk a bit to lower the rear of the car another 1-1.5", as well as space the lower axle pad pieces to keep lower link geometry similar (as horizontal as possible at ride height), while the slightly more angled upper links would decrease antisquat to some degree.
Lower links installed tonight without a hitch, tomorrow night will lower the diff and mock up the upper links and shock cradle to check ride height.
I hate to say it, but I know I can't leave well enough and if this setup simply sits way too high (been mentioned a couple times on pro-touring.com & lateral-g.net), I might (z'd?) the upper shock cradle into the trunk a bit to lower the rear of the car another 1-1.5", as well as space the lower axle pad pieces to keep lower link geometry similar (as horizontal as possible at ride height), while the slightly more angled upper links would decrease antisquat to some degree.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Torque arm is a simpler setup, but my crossmember with driveshaft loop was right in the way for where the arm's front pivotball crossmember needed to go, and that crossmember is supposed to be sandwiched between the subframe rails and the body bushings... which I no longer have.. that and the torque arm itself is kinda porky. But I totally would've liked to support the local BC boys but it would've required too much cutting to make fit (on my car, not for the average install).
you know, Art Morrison is only a couple hours south of you. It's practically in your back yard. You could technically call it 'local', even if they are in the States (gotta rep my local boys)...
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Wow I always thought Art Morrison was a CA company, little did I know... I've always lusted after their C5/C6 front subframe, but have had to tell myself NO. They do have some nice 3 & 4-link rear and full frame setups, but that would simply be too much fabrication, I think I'd lose it and give up on the car if I had to dick around with it that much more before being able to drive it.
And yea, the torque arm is massive, but in my line of work as a mechanical engineer in the high-performance bike industry, making it lightweight as well as strong & reliable is key
And yea, the torque arm is massive, but in my line of work as a mechanical engineer in the high-performance bike industry, making it lightweight as well as strong & reliable is key
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Bottom cutout is for Greddy boost controller, top cutout is where the OBDII connector will mount, all in the name of stealthy... or Clint...should I have mounted the controller on top of the dash in plain obvious sight for all to notice?? haha
The more I look at this rear suspension setup, the more I like it... not just regular wearable heim joints, or bind-inducing rubber or urethane mounts, but over-sized hardened stainless fully-rebuildable "Johnny Joints"...
Car body is supported about 18" above ground and tires are touching the ground... I could practically call this car a trophy truck now...
My ghetto-fabulous setup for making sure the rear didn't flop around fore/aft as I was lowering it by the center, since it was only connected to the lower links to start with..
Upper links and cradle are in for mockup, will post pics once shocks are in to check ride height, clearance, etc
The more I look at this rear suspension setup, the more I like it... not just regular wearable heim joints, or bind-inducing rubber or urethane mounts, but over-sized hardened stainless fully-rebuildable "Johnny Joints"...
Car body is supported about 18" above ground and tires are touching the ground... I could practically call this car a trophy truck now...
My ghetto-fabulous setup for making sure the rear didn't flop around fore/aft as I was lowering it by the center, since it was only connected to the lower links to start with..
Upper links and cradle are in for mockup, will post pics once shocks are in to check ride height, clearance, etc
Last edited by frojoe; Dec 1, 2011 at 03:59 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
No need for any such centering device since the 4 link is triangulated... Also no sway bar for now, want to see what the handling is like first before I dive into that.
I will however be putting in a brace from framerail-to-framerail for the upper link front perches, to tie them together and spread the load across both framerails.
I will however be putting in a brace from framerail-to-framerail for the upper link front perches, to tie them together and spread the load across both framerails.