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Also wanted to clean up some old battery wiring work circa 2013, that isn't up to 2022-Joe standards.
The old positive terminal was made out of some **** pot metal, and after enough tightenings it started to crack... so I got a higher quality terminal, hydraulic crimped it on, then used some 3:1 heat shrink with adhesive for a nice mechanical bond....
With a previous failure of spliced grounds from the gas tank pumps into a single ground wire, I decided that the new pressure pumps will have their own ground wires direct to battery. The repair I had to do previously was the blue wire, however it is now two 12ga wires tee'd together into that blue 10ga wire, about 8" away from the negative terminal.. so I'll let that splice slide in this instance since I'm not about to cut the tee out and extend two wires.
All the ground wires are connected to a Blue Sea grounding plate buss bar thingy, that I bent 90 degrees to fit more cleanly while using the accessory bolt on this military-style battery terminal...
It even has a sleek black cover to designate it as negative, and hide the connection points...
And here is some "signal wires" that I had to run from the tank up to the dash area... two pink wires for the surge tank level signal, and a single green as a future "boost reference signal". I already have a boost-referenced Holley output (set at I believe 4psi) going to a relay under the dash, which turns on the T56 fluid transfer pump, so if I ever feel like staging the pumps I could tie this grene wire to that relay, or to an additional Holley output...
And some more wiring, now for the lift pumps. Since they're in an "exposed" place under the trunk area behind the rear axle (like hell it's ever going to experience mud or water again down there), I did the usual adhesive heatshrink, plus dielectric grease on the ring terminals and studs, as well as used the AEM-supplied rubber terminal boots, and then split loom for wear/spray protection, and a rubber hose standoff as a strain-relief tie down to finish it all off.
Next up, I wanted to redo the fuel hard line around the rear axle, and how the new hoses would connect to it. I tried bending the original fuel line (shown in 1st pic below) but it so quickly started kinking and crimping itself, so I said screw it and cut the hard line all the way to the 4-link UCA mounting area on the chassis. I then made a bulkhead fitting bracket, to exactly hold the hard line at the perfect angle for 45 degree hose ends to aim at the trunk pass-through hole.
And yes, that fuel line is close to the muffler.. however I ran it for years without any heat insulation and zero problem.. so I figured while I had lines knocked apart I might as well sleeve it all with heat insulation.
And time for final assembly. I've never used Vibrant hoses before.. and truth be told I'd much rather have used Earl's UltraPro stuff since it's so flexible, light, and easy to assemble the hose ends.. but it appears they haven't made it in 6-AN sizing for some time, and sometime recently stopped making it in -8AN too... bummer. The Vibrant hoses went together without issue, and no leaks.. but it's the dreaded stainless weave so of course you're going to jab that cut end under your fingernail a number of times.
I made sure to have all hoses get DEI heat insulation sleeve on the hose segments leading up to where they pass through the trunk floor into the trunk, and here's a brief step-by-step of how I assembled them (this hose shown connects the gas tank to lift pump inlet)...
And here is all the hoses run.. notice I left enough length in the hoses so that I could unbolt the surge tank assembly frame from the trunk, and swing it out closer to the rear bumper for easier inspection/diagnosing if that should ever be needed...
And mounted in place, to the trunk floor using four M6 screws into M6 rivnuts...
And some very awkward/terrible pics of the lift pump assembly installed in front of and just above the gas tank, with a couple inches of clearance to the diff cover (hard to see from the angle and camera fisheye effect).. so far zero issues priming the lift pumps considering they're ~4" above the top of the gas tank...
Nice surge setup.
I went the surge tank route, luckily with the original build. Never had a fuel problem. I went with single a pump and single lift pump, but pwm both lift and fuel pumps based on boost /vac level. To avoid fouling issues, I went with a bigger fuel filter.
Thanks guys! This "street car" just got a little more ridiculous hahaha.
Most guys who claim they're building a street car build a race car that they drive on the street with the exhaust coming out of the hood or fenders. I consider yours (and mine as well) a true street car.
Love the 56K warning haha. I remember seeing that and thinking damn... I'll have to wait until I can get to a better connection haha. Good ole days in the beginning of the internet.
08-10-2022, 03:38 AM
