LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova
01-18-2012, 03:25 PM
#741
This sat there is some nova guys meeting up in mesa then cruising to the pavillions, plus as im a part of ArizonasFastestStreetCars, you should already know plenty of guys from speedworld.
01-20-2012, 02:20 PM
#742
Clint... no time stretching machine but damn could I use it for work... 25 and single helps but other hobbies certainly get in the way of having oodles of spare time.
Tony... it's not running because I want to route the fuel supply/return lines right next to where a whole bunch of 4link bracket welding has to happen and I don't want to final weld the rear suspension brackets in with the tank in the way, so hopefully that rear suspension crap can get progress this weekend. Other than that, I really don't want to have to tear the dash **** apart again later on once it's driveable just to fix signals. A couple bulbs are burned out so I'm hoping it's just a significant lack of resistance in the system that is preventing the flasher clicky unit from working properly.
As for the driveline.. I mean the driveshaft is 0.0* so flat, the trans is 1.5* down and the pinion is 1.5* up... checking my notes and it's actually 2* max angle once diff is in full bump travel and driveshaft is angle up going towards the rear. According to Spicer (and conflicting the G-Link installation manual):
- u joint minimum working angle is 1* (so that needle bearings see some movement)
- u joint maximum working angle is ~3* (more and the change in rotational speed of the u joint varies too much thru rotation and vibration could be introduced, and the needle bearings see reduced lifetime from increased movement)
- MOST important.. that the transmission output angle and pinion angle are less than 0.5* apart.. with ideal being perfectly parallel.
Joe
Tony... it's not running because I want to route the fuel supply/return lines right next to where a whole bunch of 4link bracket welding has to happen and I don't want to final weld the rear suspension brackets in with the tank in the way, so hopefully that rear suspension crap can get progress this weekend. Other than that, I really don't want to have to tear the dash **** apart again later on once it's driveable just to fix signals. A couple bulbs are burned out so I'm hoping it's just a significant lack of resistance in the system that is preventing the flasher clicky unit from working properly.
As for the driveline.. I mean the driveshaft is 0.0* so flat, the trans is 1.5* down and the pinion is 1.5* up... checking my notes and it's actually 2* max angle once diff is in full bump travel and driveshaft is angle up going towards the rear. According to Spicer (and conflicting the G-Link installation manual):
- u joint minimum working angle is 1* (so that needle bearings see some movement)
- u joint maximum working angle is ~3* (more and the change in rotational speed of the u joint varies too much thru rotation and vibration could be introduced, and the needle bearings see reduced lifetime from increased movement)
- MOST important.. that the transmission output angle and pinion angle are less than 0.5* apart.. with ideal being perfectly parallel.
Joe
02-12-2012, 08:35 PM
#746
Work has been crazy but slowed down, this is what I've been trying to work on over the last couple weekends. Cross brace between the two upper control arm pockets to spread the load side-to-side under cornering as well as prevent the UCA's from wanting to 'pull' the framerails in together under hard acceleration. Frame rails are finally stripped clean (that was a shitty job) and bracket is clamped in place, ready to weld in after dinner.
02-16-2012, 01:30 AM
#747
Still have to complete some of weld bead on the upper control arm brackets on the rear axle, and install the tank, and pull an axle stud cuz the thread is screwed, but a friend is coming into town and I had to get it put together just a little bit to make it presentable.
It also appears to be stink-bugged a bit. I still have 1 hole left in the rear end's height adjustment, so after springs break in I might lower it a tad bit still.
It also appears to be stink-bugged a bit. I still have 1 hole left in the rear end's height adjustment, so after springs break in I might lower it a tad bit still.
02-16-2012, 06:08 PM
#752
Forgive me for being stupid, but what the hell is "stink bugged"??? I am assuming its the front is higher than the rear. Correct? Anyways that car looks awesome at it's current stance!!! Hands down it's a bad *** ride. Now if it will run as good as it looks thats a whole other topic. When are we going to hear this car run? Quit dicking around with the ride height and lets hear some power to the ground!!!
02-17-2012, 08:17 AM
#757
Yea, those cars have some serious time and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Makes me wish I could work on my car in my garage every day AND still get my paycheck in the mail every week!
Makes me wish I could work on my car in my garage every day AND still get my paycheck in the mail every week!
02-17-2012, 04:16 PM
#758
Ah yeah, I remember that one! Didn't recognize it from the picture you posted, but that is one very high quality build. Did you see JCG's "Project Blu Balz"? It seems to have a few things in common with that Nova.
You'll have to roll yours out and take a wider shot. Looks like the stance is pretty good from the closeup photos, but it's really hard to tell.
You'll have to roll yours out and take a wider shot. Looks like the stance is pretty good from the closeup photos, but it's really hard to tell.
02-17-2012, 08:47 PM
#759
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Billy's Nova is badass, http://www.bbclassicsinc.com/
Yours is lookin good as well, might have missed it but what are you running for front suspension?
Yours is lookin good as well, might have missed it but what are you running for front suspension?
02-20-2012, 12:14 PM
#760
I have Speedtech UCA/LCA's and QA1 coil-over conversion shocks, but almost wished I had gone the full coilver route for the front for independent ride height/corner balancing adjustment. It is quite low in the front because I have the coil spring spanner nuts slammed at the bottom, as well as no body bushings. Think i'll raise the front a bit, allow for break-in sag, then see where it sits and go from there.