engine temp rising in stop and go
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 276
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From: Utah
engine temp rising in stop and go my engine temp tends to go up around 20 degrees higher than normal when I am in stop and go traffic. I used my old radiator in the swap (for a sbc 350) and it cools fine unless it is warm and I am in stop and go. I am running the stock lq4 fan.
I am thinking that I will install an electric 14 or 16 inch push fan in front of the radiator that I can turn on in stop and go traffic, maybe even one of those 20-30 dollar jobs on ebay.
What would yall recommend?
I am thinking that I will install an electric 14 or 16 inch push fan in front of the radiator that I can turn on in stop and go traffic, maybe even one of those 20-30 dollar jobs on ebay.
What would yall recommend?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 276
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From: Utah
my engine tends to hover near the 210-215 point I am running the stock termostate, (I think, my guage is not the best and i have to make an estimation on what the actual temp is. The temp seems to get in the 235 range when in stop and go after some freeway driving. my check engine light has never come on, but I don't know when it would. I just don't want to damage the engine. It runs fine in winter time and stays at 210 or so or below depending on outside temp.
I just wonder whether 235 is to hot.
Does this make sense, or should I get one of those lazer temp readers and take a true temp when then the engine is hot?
I just wonder whether 235 is to hot.
Does this make sense, or should I get one of those lazer temp readers and take a true temp when then the engine is hot?
I would go with some electric puller fans, pushers will work however pullers are more efficient. Have you checked for an air pocket in the motor? Maybe you can try a bottle of Water Wetter and see if that helps at all.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 310
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my engine tends to hover near the 210-215 point I am running the stock termostate, (I think, my guage is not the best and i have to make an estimation on what the actual temp is. The temp seems to get in the 235 range when in stop and go after some freeway driving. my check engine light has never come on, but I don't know when it would. I just don't want to damage the engine. It runs fine in winter time and stays at 210 or so or below depending on outside temp.
I just wonder whether 235 is to hot.
Does this make sense, or should I get one of those lazer temp readers and take a true temp when then the engine is hot?
I just wonder whether 235 is to hot.
Does this make sense, or should I get one of those lazer temp readers and take a true temp when then the engine is hot?
"(I think, my guage is not the best and i have to make an estimation on what the actual temp is. The temp seems to get in the 235 range"
First thing I'd do is get an accurate gauge installed.
"old radiator" means? Has it been cleaned?
Have you modified the stock stat?
Are the steam lines connected?
First thing I'd do is get an accurate gauge installed.
"old radiator" means? Has it been cleaned?
Have you modified the stock stat?
Are the steam lines connected?
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TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Simi VAlley,CA
Your temperatures are about the same as mine. I drove mine to the Mojave/Boron area (110-115 degree ambient) last August for a car show....the car worked fine, 235 is not too hot. With my A/C off my temp generally stays between 195 to 225. I'm using one 16 inch puller fan that is shrouded.
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Verdad Gallardo The stock T-stat starts to open at 187.7*F and is full open at 212*F.
So what you are seeing is normal operation, adding an aftermarket electric fan with a stand alone sensor (sold at jegs and summit) will help lower the temps.
So what you are seeing is normal operation, adding an aftermarket electric fan with a stand alone sensor (sold at jegs and summit) will help lower the temps.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 276
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From: Utah
Thanks for all the responses
I would love to have an acurrate guage. I think my guage is ok but the problem is that my mechanic put an adapter on top of another adpater to get my old sensor to work with my existing guage (dakota digital) Is there another way to get an accurate guage? I thought these motors used the pcm to monitor temp, but I could be wrong and for all I know getting the sensor that is supposed to plug into the block,( passager rear corner of the engine) is where my sept up is now) and run it to a different guage?
I have the stock fan and a shroud. Is there room to put an electric fan that would pull inside my shroud between my belt driven fan and the radiator? or am I misunderstanding push and pull? I figured there wasn't enough room and that is why I thought of a push fan.
Radiator is older but seems to heat evenly so I do not think there are any plugs in it. It looks fairly clean, although I did get some paint on the lower portion of it (maybe 10% of radiator). I will need to check on steam lines, where would they be running to?
I would love to have an acurrate guage. I think my guage is ok but the problem is that my mechanic put an adapter on top of another adpater to get my old sensor to work with my existing guage (dakota digital) Is there another way to get an accurate guage? I thought these motors used the pcm to monitor temp, but I could be wrong and for all I know getting the sensor that is supposed to plug into the block,( passager rear corner of the engine) is where my sept up is now) and run it to a different guage?
I have the stock fan and a shroud. Is there room to put an electric fan that would pull inside my shroud between my belt driven fan and the radiator? or am I misunderstanding push and pull? I figured there wasn't enough room and that is why I thought of a push fan.
Radiator is older but seems to heat evenly so I do not think there are any plugs in it. It looks fairly clean, although I did get some paint on the lower portion of it (maybe 10% of radiator). I will need to check on steam lines, where would they be running to?
If I were you I would do away with the belt driven fan. Get some electric fans,single or duall.Just measure to see how big a set of fans you can fit behind your radiator.There are tons of different aftermarket fans,all sizes and cfm's.There are some nice duall fans with shrouds.You will get better cooling and pick up a few horsepower too .
Out of curiousity, if you are sitting in traffic and you hold the motor at a higher speed (say, 1800 RPM) does the temperature come down at all?
My car sits at 176-178 (160* stat) while moving, but on 90*+ days it'll creep up to 195-200* if I sit long enough at idle. If I move the RPM up to 1800-2000 RPM for 15-20 seconds, the temperature comes right down. My cooling system can keep up, it's the stock water pump that isn't moving sufficient fuel (800 RPM idle). An electric pump will solve my problem.
Just thought it might be worth checking for you.
BTW, the 93 Ford Taurus 3.8L V6 cooling fan is a real winner. MAJOR CFM and rather cheap.
My car sits at 176-178 (160* stat) while moving, but on 90*+ days it'll creep up to 195-200* if I sit long enough at idle. If I move the RPM up to 1800-2000 RPM for 15-20 seconds, the temperature comes right down. My cooling system can keep up, it's the stock water pump that isn't moving sufficient fuel (800 RPM idle). An electric pump will solve my problem.
Just thought it might be worth checking for you.
BTW, the 93 Ford Taurus 3.8L V6 cooling fan is a real winner. MAJOR CFM and rather cheap.
Electric fans typically don't move as much air as a belt driven fan. You might lose cooling capability with that. An electric fan's big advantage is easier installation and the fact it can be turned off when not needed.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 276
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From: Utah
I tried to put the truck in neutral and rev it up to 2500-2800 for maybe 10 to 20 seconds with no real effect.
Not sure what this means as I was hoping that either the fan or the pump would help.
Maybe I did not do it long enough?
Not sure what this means as I was hoping that either the fan or the pump would help.
Maybe I did not do it long enough?
You are probably getting a very poor temp reading from your current sensor location.
I am running a large aluminum radiator with dual electric fans and I can let mine idle all day and it won't get over 195*.
I am running a large aluminum radiator with dual electric fans and I can let mine idle all day and it won't get over 195*.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
From: Utah
would one of those radiator cap temp guages be of any use to me? Or is there a better way of determining what temp the water/coolant is in the radiator?
I know I should be more concerned with engine temp, but this at least gives me some kind of feel in the short term.
I know I should be more concerned with engine temp, but this at least gives me some kind of feel in the short term.
