Rattles in convertible cars
#1
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My car has developed some rattles over the years and I finally want to do something about it.
I noticed most of thuds noises come when the top is up.
Any one else feel this way too or is it because they aren't heard as much with top down?
Roads here are terrible and the car was a dd stock suspension for 10+ years.
I put in monroe shocks , nothing special just aftermarket replacements that cured some of the rough ride and rattles.
Any ideas on maybe tightening the top or if verts have more rattles than a ttop car?
I noticed most of thuds noises come when the top is up.
Any one else feel this way too or is it because they aren't heard as much with top down?
Roads here are terrible and the car was a dd stock suspension for 10+ years.
I put in monroe shocks , nothing special just aftermarket replacements that cured some of the rough ride and rattles.
Any ideas on maybe tightening the top or if verts have more rattles than a ttop car?
#3
TECH Junkie
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With higher mileage cars it is inevitable to get noises. All you can do is tighten any possible areas and keep those rubber seals supple and soft, especially around the top of the front windshield. If the rubber has become too hard over time this may not be possible. I make it a yearly ritual to lower the top halfway and find every possible piece of rubber to treat. You can use a lubricant when the top is in this position also for the moving parts or anywhere that might rub. I use Armorall to treat the rubber first, letting it soak in for about 15 minutes, then I use a detailer, like Mother's, afterwards to remove some of the Armorall stickiness that sometimes attracts dirt. This combination leaves behind a really nice soft rubber that bonds nicely with anything it comes in contact with. Give it a try and see if it makes any improvements. Good luck!
#5
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CarGuy8888 - I used to drive the camaro through cross bronx...lol nothing ever could be worse. Where are you in the city?
NC01TA - Thank you for those suggestions, Its something quick and easy I can try.
libertyforall1776 - Konis are most desirable but I may go with billesteins and use rest of funds for replacing the mounts and rubber suspension parts like you said.
I see that strano parts has a rebuild kit. Is this everything needed for front and rear?
NC01TA - Thank you for those suggestions, Its something quick and easy I can try.
libertyforall1776 - Konis are most desirable but I may go with billesteins and use rest of funds for replacing the mounts and rubber suspension parts like you said.
I see that strano parts has a rebuild kit. Is this everything needed for front and rear?
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
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Also look into Koni STR.T shocks, they are newly available for F-Bodies and in Bilstein price range if you can't swing the Koni Sports...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ll-almost.html
What rebuild kit are you referring to? It's best to post the link.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ll-almost.html
What rebuild kit are you referring to? It's best to post the link.
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#10
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
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It could be a great start -- how many mi. are on the car, and what year is it?
Definitely want some SFCs on that Vert -- makes a world of difference, and dump the crappy Monroe shocks. Add some Strano sways instead of swapping sway bushings, and put in a STB.
Also check your trans mount, motor mounts and rear bumpstops -- any cracking or disintegration then replace them.
Definitely want some SFCs on that Vert -- makes a world of difference, and dump the crappy Monroe shocks. Add some Strano sways instead of swapping sway bushings, and put in a STB.
Also check your trans mount, motor mounts and rear bumpstops -- any cracking or disintegration then replace them.
#11
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I have a 98 convertible and have had some of the squeaks, clunks and noises that seem to be common to older cars, especially convertibles.
When I bought the car, it had Konis (front) and Bilstiens (rear), with rear LCAs. I have installed UMI 2-point SFCs (3-points were not available at the time, or else I'd have gotten those), UMI STB, and Strano hollow sway bars (35mm/19mm). I have no squeaks anymore EXCEPT for when I first start driving after the car has been sitting for a week or so. After about 20 minutes of driving (accelerating, braking, turning corners, speed bumps, etc), the squeaks are all worked out and the ride is quiet.
I will also +1 Sam Strano's sway bars, and am eager to get the springs as funds allow. UMI also makes a nice product. Noticed an instant difference when I installed my bolt-on subframe connectors. Didn't notice much difference with STB, but bought one just cause I have a 'vert and was more of a preventitive measure to guard against flex/twist.
When I bought the car, it had Konis (front) and Bilstiens (rear), with rear LCAs. I have installed UMI 2-point SFCs (3-points were not available at the time, or else I'd have gotten those), UMI STB, and Strano hollow sway bars (35mm/19mm). I have no squeaks anymore EXCEPT for when I first start driving after the car has been sitting for a week or so. After about 20 minutes of driving (accelerating, braking, turning corners, speed bumps, etc), the squeaks are all worked out and the ride is quiet.
I will also +1 Sam Strano's sway bars, and am eager to get the springs as funds allow. UMI also makes a nice product. Noticed an instant difference when I installed my bolt-on subframe connectors. Didn't notice much difference with STB, but bought one just cause I have a 'vert and was more of a preventitive measure to guard against flex/twist.