another trunk lid problem
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Southampton,England
another trunk lid problem Hi guys, having browsed the many threads here concerning trunk lid problems I am still none the wiser to a solution. I have a 2000 T/A vert and to open the trunk I have to push down on it then press the button/fob/key then I can lift it. Already aware of the spring mod I checked that but the spring is a coil type like that fitted in a clock not a regular type spring. Any help would be much appreciated thank you.
Maybe you need to lube up the electric actuator path?
Only so much grunt you can get out of a little solenoid,
maybe too crusty to draw back the catch when there's
pressure on it?
Only so much grunt you can get out of a little solenoid,
maybe too crusty to draw back the catch when there's
pressure on it?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Southampton,England
Nope still won't open. Do you think I should slightly raise the latch mechanism in the trunk compartment in case the trunk lid is pulling up on it therefore applying friction?
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by blackhawk66; Jul 14, 2014 at 10:16 AM. Reason: improving grammar
That seems like a good thing to try, all you need is for
it not to rattle, any tension (compression) beyond that
is only extra work for the solenoid.
You might find it easier to shim down the latch-loop,
than move the mechanism up.
Now speaking of the solenoid, have you determined that
it is getting full voltage when actuated? That's across
the leads, close in, not single ended to some random
ground-point. Maybe you have some sheet metal ground
issues, back there, or something. You could push a
couple of sewing needles through the two wires, put
a DMM across the solenoid as close as possible and
have somebody hold in the release button long enough
to get a steady reading.
it not to rattle, any tension (compression) beyond that
is only extra work for the solenoid.
You might find it easier to shim down the latch-loop,
than move the mechanism up.
Now speaking of the solenoid, have you determined that
it is getting full voltage when actuated? That's across
the leads, close in, not single ended to some random
ground-point. Maybe you have some sheet metal ground
issues, back there, or something. You could push a
couple of sewing needles through the two wires, put
a DMM across the solenoid as close as possible and
have somebody hold in the release button long enough
to get a steady reading.
