Replacing Top
05-08-2015, 04:08 PM
#1
Replacing Top So, my rear window has started to separate from the glass, and I'm looking into replacing the whole top, since it's about 13 years old now.
my only question is, is this worth having a shop do, or is it possible without a bunch of experience to do myself? I was quoted pretty much 2k for a new top w/ install, whereas I could just spend 700 from the convertible top guys and do it myself.
I've read some instructions and it doesn't seem very complex, just time consuming.
Opinions?
Edit: Also, I'm doing some searching online, and was wondering (for those that have replaced their tops) has anyone purchased anything from somewhere other than the Convertible top guys? I've seen a couple on different websites that are about a hundred bucks cheaper (one was even Robbins, which I heard has a lifetime warranty), so just looking for thoughts on that.
my only question is, is this worth having a shop do, or is it possible without a bunch of experience to do myself? I was quoted pretty much 2k for a new top w/ install, whereas I could just spend 700 from the convertible top guys and do it myself.
I've read some instructions and it doesn't seem very complex, just time consuming.
Opinions?
Edit: Also, I'm doing some searching online, and was wondering (for those that have replaced their tops) has anyone purchased anything from somewhere other than the Convertible top guys? I've seen a couple on different websites that are about a hundred bucks cheaper (one was even Robbins, which I heard has a lifetime warranty), so just looking for thoughts on that.
Last edited by HappySalesman; 05-08-2015 at 07:19 PM.
05-09-2015, 10:47 AM
#2
One of the things I've learned over the years is that the concept of "bolt on" is oftentimes not that simple. I've replaced the rear window curtain once, and while I got it done, it was relatively easy, providing you have the correct tools (and know about that center located rivet). I did have to redo the staples on the lower rear part twice to get the fabric to sit properly. I am happy I gave it a shot. I would ensure that you're getting the proper material for the top, whether is vinyl or stayfast canvas. Also, is it a one piece or two piece top? and does the replacement contain a glass window with the defroster grid. I'd make sure I had a covered place to work (in case you can't finish in a day and the weather doesn't cooperate) and ensure that you have plenty of time and patience, and the correct tools (the correct staple gun helps - I used a regular staple gun). Also, given it's size, I'd try and have a buddy or two available to help maneuver it around. Hopefully people who have actually done it will chime in. Good luck on your decision.
05-09-2015, 05:28 PM
#3
Well I purchased a DVD from 'aoksales' that should outline how to replace the top. So I'll give that a look and see if its within my ability to do so. Found a couple of write ups online and it looks straightforward, just kind of time consuming.
I think I'll go with a Robbins top though. Topsonline has a two piece for 560, and Robbins offers a lifetime warranty on the stitching and the window.
I think I'll go with a Robbins top though. Topsonline has a two piece for 560, and Robbins offers a lifetime warranty on the stitching and the window.
05-10-2015, 08:37 AM
#4
TECH Junkie
Since you are asking, my advice is to have a professional shop do the work. If you love your car, have it done right. I've learned over the many years here that 'doing it yourself' is never as easy as claimed. Maybe if you have the talent to start with, but for many, like myself, it's time for professionals to install a convertible top. It isn't as simple as changing oil or a spark plug. An amateur installation will look just like what it was, amateur. I don't even want to think of leaks, wind noise, etc.. I would never attempt it.
Best of luck with whatever you do.
Best of luck with whatever you do.
05-15-2015, 11:45 AM
#6
Good luck. There is a rivet in the center upper brace that needs to be drilled out to get the old one off. Hoping the video showed that. On mine, there is some sort of sticky grease all along the bottom rail that I had to contend with. And finally, get a good staple gun.
05-25-2015, 03:58 AM
#7
I've professionally built GM racing transmissions for several years. Not a common skill, few guys know how to dick with those, and I'm fairly mechanically inclined. However, I won't even bother trying to dick with installing one of these tops. Too much risk to **** it all up IMO.
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05-27-2015, 12:58 PM
#8
So, I did the back window install yesterday.
Took me about 4 hours, but that's partly due to me dicking around for a bit, taking my time, and referencing a video.
However, doing that is not as hard as everyone makes it seem.
I'll post a write-up here soon, probably by late tonight.
Took me about 4 hours, but that's partly due to me dicking around for a bit, taking my time, and referencing a video.
However, doing that is not as hard as everyone makes it seem.
I'll post a write-up here soon, probably by late tonight.
05-27-2015, 02:42 PM
#9
I am just finishing my new top and window install. I have all of the necessary tools, skill, and a fair amount of patience. If I knew of a shop that wouldn't screw it up like the shop I had replace the top 5 years ago, I wouldn't have done the job myself. It is tedious work and you could very easily mar the finish on your car if you don't protect it with shipping blankets or something similar. The replacement tops are marked where you affix them to the rear tack bar, but that is just a "starting point". It may be short or long as marked. And remember, you need to use stainless steel staples and you'll need several lengths because the shorter staple you'll use for single layers won't be long enough when you're stapling through five layers. A galvanized staple will disintegrate and leave a rust spot.
One thing I would recommend that I haven't seen anyone suggest is that you apply some adhesive between the two layers of material on the rear window where it will staple to the tack bar. It will keep you from getting a pucker in the material on the interior of the car.
I certainly couldn't install convertible tops for a living. I'd go broke or nuts, whichever came first.
One thing I would recommend that I haven't seen anyone suggest is that you apply some adhesive between the two layers of material on the rear window where it will staple to the tack bar. It will keep you from getting a pucker in the material on the interior of the car.
I certainly couldn't install convertible tops for a living. I'd go broke or nuts, whichever came first.
05-31-2015, 05:54 PM
#15
Haha thanks, but honestly as far as installs go, it wasn't that bad. The biggest help I got was a dvd I purchased from another website (can't remember what the specific rules are on posting other sellers links on the forums so if you want it PM me) for 30 bucks that had an in-depth how to on replacing the entire top. I just forwarded it till I got to the part that involved the rear window and just did what he did.
I do audio and electrical installs in cars for a living, but I don't really think that gave me much of an upper hand for a job like this.
I do audio and electrical installs in cars for a living, but I don't really think that gave me much of an upper hand for a job like this.
06-18-2015, 07:14 PM
#17
For those that have replaced their tops professionally or DIY... did the top material overlap the weather stripping where the top of the door window meets the top?
I was watching a video of a shop that does custom top and they said that the issue with alot of bulk premade tops is that the material does not overlap and that it SHOULD cover cover the rubber and hang down a tab bit more so to completely protect the seal of the window and rubber from water and leaks. Basically a runoff.
I hope I explained that correctly.
I was watching a video of a shop that does custom top and they said that the issue with alot of bulk premade tops is that the material does not overlap and that it SHOULD cover cover the rubber and hang down a tab bit more so to completely protect the seal of the window and rubber from water and leaks. Basically a runoff.
I hope I explained that correctly.
07-25-2017, 09:20 AM
#18
I'm bringing this back from the dead to reply to the post by RONIN LSX for the purpose of warning people of the issue of top material overlap with window weather stripping.
The top I installed is a Haartz Stayfast top and the material is OEM quality. However, the top was sold by Tops On Line and I bought it on the auction site. I've had leaks since the install and it is correct that some tops, including the one I installed, are NOT cut to the OEM specifications and DO NOT overhang the window weather strips at the top of the window.
This is a buyer beware. I don't know who is making the tops that are cut correctly, but if anyone does know a manufacturer/supplier selling the replacement top that fits correctly, post it up and save people the grief of awful and avoidable water leaks.
Whether you install it yourself or have it professionally installed, you want a top that is made right and keeps the water out as effectively as the original top did when it was new.
The top I installed is a Haartz Stayfast top and the material is OEM quality. However, the top was sold by Tops On Line and I bought it on the auction site. I've had leaks since the install and it is correct that some tops, including the one I installed, are NOT cut to the OEM specifications and DO NOT overhang the window weather strips at the top of the window.
This is a buyer beware. I don't know who is making the tops that are cut correctly, but if anyone does know a manufacturer/supplier selling the replacement top that fits correctly, post it up and save people the grief of awful and avoidable water leaks.
Whether you install it yourself or have it professionally installed, you want a top that is made right and keeps the water out as effectively as the original top did when it was new.