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Guys with roll bars come in PLEASE!!

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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 09:22 AM
  #21  
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Default Dont forget the hals

I have just about every suspension mod and after the roll bar HALS with stiff springs is the way to go. BIG improvment.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 06:46 PM
  #22  
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The SFC's and DSL will help a bit but aren't up to the task you seek. A SC & other mods sounds like you will be looking at 450 RWHP or more with lots of torque. For the rollbar to really do a job on stiffening, it needs to be weld in and go through the floor to the subframe. Mine was welded with floor plates and I had SFC's and I still twisted the frame a bit by drag racing with slicks with less HP than you will achieve (I did have 4200 stall and H&C). If it is purely street, you may not be disappointed because the launch is the hardest on the car.

There are some big HP verts around that show up for racing, but they are rare compared to T-Top or fixed roof.
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 02:40 PM
  #23  
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love all the pics keep em coming
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 06:09 PM
  #24  
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any black t/a with a roll bar?
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 05:22 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1
So I'm thinking of installing a Roll bar, don't really care for this in a non race car, if you hit your head without a helmet your a goner, but at the same time it can help in some kinds of accidents so maybe that is wash.
Since this is not needed to meet any race specs, just get a custom one built that is further away from your head. Then there will be no chance of busting your noggin on it. You might even be able to mod a prebuilt one. You could also make a 4 point into a 6 point by running tubes right up behind the rear seat as oppossed to the front floorboard area. Then you don't have to climb over the bar getting in and out, but it should add some rigidity.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Question Whoa!!

Originally Posted by JasonWW
Since this is not needed to meet any race specs, just get a custom one built that is further away from your head. Then there will be no chance of busting your noggin on it. You might even be able to mod a prebuilt one. You could also make a 4 point into a 6 point by running tubes right up behind the rear seat as oppossed to the front floorboard area. Then you don't have to climb over the bar getting in and out, but it should add some rigidity.
More importantly...who's the naked HOTTIE in your sig? DAMN!
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 03:08 PM
  #27  
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I think the one thing that I noticed most was when I put the shock tower brace in.
The front stiffened up nice, but the back now feels a little loose
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 08:24 AM
  #28  
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ok guys newbie asking something here, for complete street use, and the odd, (and i mean like finding a gold brick odd) road coarse event.... i have a 97 ss rag top, what would be the best bar for it.... a fellow member is selling his 6 point on here, and i was talking with him about it.... is 6 to much for street? or would it make sense to just build one, or is wolf the best out there??
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 08:35 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by camarolt4ss
ok guys newbie asking something here, for complete street use, and the odd, (and i mean like finding a gold brick odd) road coarse event.... i have a 97 ss rag top, what would be the best bar for it.... a fellow member is selling his 6 point on here, and i was talking with him about it.... is 6 to much for street? or would it make sense to just build one, or is wolf the best out there??
Wolfe is the best out there. If you have the door bars where they can swing out, then a 6 pnt is fine for daily use. I went with a 4 point since thats all that was required for me at Road Atlanta. The door bars can also get in the way while driving.
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 08:36 AM
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Is the used one from a vert?
Typically the vert bars have a higher top hoop that doesn't block the rear vision, while the hardtop bars have to be lower to fit under the headliner which kills rear vision.
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 10:00 AM
  #31  
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its brand new still in the wrap, cro moly version for a vert.... i think he said 6 point....

now do u have a pic of the 4 point one? so i can see how its mounted, cause i dont really want the door area in my way, if i was going to make one i was going to have the door area run across the floor almost so its out of the way
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 10:07 AM
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Is it made by Wolfe?
A 6 point is going to have the side bars by the doors, so you have to make sure about these things.

What are you going to do about it being right next to your head? Are you going to wear a helmet everytime your in the car? If you hit your unprotected head on it you will bust it open.

For my daily driver car I will make a non-NHRA legal rollbar and make the top hoop at least 9" away from my head.

Here a good thread with pics.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?p=333243

Also, don't forget Wolfe's site:
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/Search...?CategoryID=20
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 10:17 AM
  #33  
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well with this wolf one, why would i hit my head on it? i mean its over the back seats, so behind the drivers seat..... i dont lay in my car like some ppl lol.......

so why would i hit my melon? as well it is a 6 point so it will have the door bars, but i would prob cut them out, and change the angle so it runs at the sill
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 10:27 AM
  #34  
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I'm guessing you don't realize how close it is to your head. Check out those pics. All NHRA legal rollbars (all of Wolfes) have to be within 6 or so inches of your head. Lets say you get in a minor fender bender the seat and seatbelts can and will flex and your body will also move around. With the bar that close there's a good chance your head will hit it. If it does, it will do major damage. At the very least you'll need to add a lot of padding.
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 10:33 AM
  #35  
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ya see i have not seen a car around here with one, so has to be with in 6 inches huh.... ok how much do u think it would costs to build one, and not get one from wolf.... made from cromo too
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 10:48 AM
  #36  
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I don't have any idea about having one made. I would check the race shops around you. Hopefully someone knows someone nearby who makes them.

If you look at those pics you can see that the main hoop is right at the doors edge. You can go see how your seat is adjusted and imagine the bar in that spot. Is it too close for you?

I assume your going to remove the rear seats as you won't be able to carry people back there. The custom bar will have to be narrower and mount on the bottom where the seat cushions go. You'll have to go out and look around for good mounting points, but they will probably be under the rear bottom cushions. Or you can mount them in front of the cushions and lean the whole main hoop to the back. That might work.

It's just that "rollbar" and "daily driver" just don't go well together. I know some of these guys have their NHRA rollbars close to their head and just don't care about it. They don't where helmets on the street, but they also don't daily drive their cars either.

Below is a quick pic of a more suitable daily driver rollbar.
Attached Thumbnails Guys with roll bars come in PLEASE!!-rollbar-1-.jpg  
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 10:59 AM
  #37  
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ya alot of ppl i have seen with roll bars have the rear seats still, i had a c5, and i kept my ss, cause i enjoy being able to go out with the gf and 2 of her gf's to the beach lol, so keeping the rear seats is a for sure....

problem why i need one is my engine and turbo combo makes about 875hp, and well we all know that if i dont have one, my car is going to become a lil twisted
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 11:11 AM
  #38  
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You can leave the rear seats in for looks, but you don't want to actually have anyone ride back there. For one thing they will have huge trouble getting in and out. Second, it's extremely dangerous. They will be surrounded by steel tubing. Imagine a quick panic stop and someone in the rear lurches forward it hits the bar. Not good.

I would just forget running a rollbar of any kind if you want to have rear passengers. About the only decent thing to do is concentrate on reinforcing the factory subframe connectors. I'm sure you could weld in some beefy bars there. Forget bolt in SFC, you need welded.
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 11:33 AM
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for the # of times id have ppl back there its prob not a big deal, and mainly just going to have ppl there for when at the beach or something.... as for the padding, it will be covered for sure, so just incase...

now who makes a good set of weld in sfc??

as for right now, i only have lca's, adjustable pan hard, stb. So any other suggestions would be great to help it out... altho everyone i have heard says only a cage helped the sloppy feel
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by camarolt4ss
everyone i have heard says only a cage helped the sloppy feel
Well, it is a vert.

Have to added better shocks, springs and rollbars?

As far as SFC, I haven't really looked at whats available for the verts. They already have some type of bars under there. For the hard tops the SLP units are very stiff. Maybe you could cut out the flimsy factory ones and weld these in.

Oh yeah. Wolfe also makes some extreme SFC's. They actually go through the floor. These are probably the ultimate, but require quite a bit of work to install.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=805

Maybe that's your best bet. Might have to call them to see if they fit the vert, though.
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