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Guys with roll bars come in PLEASE!!

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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 02:17 PM
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Default Guys with roll bars come in PLEASE!!

I'm at a crossroads with this car, I basically inheireted it from the wife when I sold my Z06 to buy a family rig. I have gotten it to a point that I'm starting to really like it

But after poly engine mounts, T56 conversion and a headers, the car seems to feel more "sloppy" than ever. Maybe its just that I've been driving the BMW for the last 2 months but it really feels like jello.

So I have a SC and other mods sitting in the garage but if this car is always going to feel this way I need to look at something else. I don't expect the solidness of a C5 but I would like it to be equivalent to a t-top F-body with SFC's.

So far I have Bilstiens, and Bmr's, I have a STB but I'm going to loose it with the SC install.

I have BMR SFC, LCA's and relocation brackets I still need to install. I'm going to order a Sphon driveshaft loop and tubular crossmember. But I'm guessing none of this is going to help lateral "sloppiness, cowl shake"

So I'm thinking of installing a Roll bar, don't really care for this in a non race car, if you hit your head without a helmet your a goner, but at the same time it can help in some kinds of accidents so maybe that is wash.

BUT how much does it help the stableness of the car and the cowl shake, was the car more solid? How would you compare to a F-body coupe?

Thanks,

Bobby
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 06:22 PM
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Hey Bobby, whats going on man?

I feel that Wolfe makes the best bar out there for coupe or verts. I have had both and done quite a few installs. A roll bar in a vert really stiffens the car and is a worthwhile mod. However, know that it does kill the resale value of the car unless you cut it out before you sell it (if you ever do). I would definatly advise against a bolt in unit.....it basically bolts to sheetmetal and doesnt increase the rigidity much. The weld in version really takes care of that "vert" feeling

Hope all is well!
Jason
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 07:45 PM
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I've got the bolt-in Wolfe in mine. I'm thinking Jason right and if I had to do it over again, I would have welded it in. I also would have bought a 4 point instead, then I would make new side bars that follow the contours of the seat. Wolfe swing-outs suck.
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 09:44 PM
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Damn I would rather not go welded. I'm trying to decide wether to keep the vert and finish it up with the Vortech, or buy a friends done hardtop SS. Its a tough choice I've always wanted a FI F-body, but as much fun as the vert is its kind of a PITA.

Jason everything is going good man, just had a kid so I'm keeping busy, another reason I'm thinking of buying my friends car I don't have the time I used to, to tinker with em!
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 01:59 AM
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I bolted mine in and it drove like a different care, very satisfied.
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 12:32 PM
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havent bolted my wolfe in yet...after yesterdays 820/823 dyno...i may need too
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 01:54 PM
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I have a Wolfe 4-point welded in and I think it helped A TON with rigidity. It's pretty damn stiff for a ragg-topp. I've got a 3-point STB, LCA's, Panhard bar to boot.

Approx. 470rwhp and 460rwtq+ out of a 383 stroker too.

Jim
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 10:15 PM
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i have a 6pt bolt in with rear tubes welded to be nhra approve and its been the best mod i have ever done.remember 6pt get tricky getting in and out of the car
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 12:26 AM
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Dump the STB, its just extra weight. Weld up the SFC and you'll notice a remarkable improvement. No more cowl shake. But, keep in mind its still a convertible. Make sure to adjust the alignment to a more agressive setting if your still OEM.

I've had a 5 point bolt-in from Wolfecraft. It was built well and complimented the lines as nicely as a covertible roll bar can. However, I only noticed a slight increase in rigidity above and beyond what the DD SFC added. I've since taken the roll bar out because I don't enter open track events anymore. (note, wolfecraft bars dont meet NASA specs but nobody ever noticed, dia too small)

Throw on the blower. I've got 500 with a p1sc and think its a blast. I just need to work on my launching skills.

The BMR LCA and brackets are going to hinder lateral control. Coming from a Z06 (and BMW references) indicates that you want the f-body to handle. Sell them and put the cash towards some good shocks. The stock decarbons blow!
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 12:22 PM
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I just intalled all that (sfc,lca,bilstiens, springs, etc) and it made a BIG difference!
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MiaSSmaro98
i have a 6pt bolt in with rear tubes welded to be nhra approve and its been the best mod i have ever done.remember 6pt get tricky getting in and out of the car

now that's funny. getting it in and out but yes is very very hard
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 03:12 PM
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how do roll bars/cages effect putting the top up and down??
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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also, whats the differance between mild steel weld in and cromoly weld in? besides extra 100 bills it costs
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by slow99vert
how do roll bars/cages effect putting the top up and down??
No effect at all. I have the wolfe 6 pt:

http://maverickwh.home.comcast.net/RedSS/index.htm

I added subframes at the same time, and the car felt much better than my 94 coupe.
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 06:43 AM
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I had a shop do a custom 6 point. The sidebars are a pain, but can be funny at times. Watching others try to get in and out. Even in parking lots, people give you a strange look at you try to climb out. Its a lot easier with the top down, lol. But, the car is a lot stiffer. Better then the '95 Firebird I had. Feel safer, too. As long as I'm not hit from the side, and stabbed by one of the bars, I should be fine.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 04:52 PM
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My bolt-in Wolfe 4pt did indeed stiffen up the car quite a bit. I still feel my Kenny Brown Sub frames stiffened it up the most, but the Wolfe just added to the stiffness. I get al kinds of compliments, but my intention was to run class B at Track Days at Road Atlanta. If you want to run B with a vert, you must have a roll bar. I love mine and would not change a thing. Here are some pics.
Attached Thumbnails Guys with roll bars come in PLEASE!!-pic_0028.jpg   Guys with roll bars come in PLEASE!!-pic_0030.jpg   Guys with roll bars come in PLEASE!!-pic_0004.jpg  
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 06:02 PM
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Brian...it looks good. I was actually thinking about getting that one. Let me ask this though. I looked at the pics real good but I wanna make sure of this, did you after to alter your boot any?? Wolfe couldn't answer that question and yours is the only one that i've seen w/ the boot on. Were abouts in W. NC r u?
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by slow99vert
also, whats the differance between mild steel weld in and cromoly weld in? besides extra 100 bills it costs
Cromoly is lighter in weight than mild steel.

Jim
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by NC_T/A
Brian...it looks good. I was actually thinking about getting that one. Let me ask this though. I looked at the pics real good but I wanna make sure of this, did you after to alter your boot any?? Wolfe couldn't answer that question and yours is the only one that i've seen w/ the boot on. Were abouts in W. NC r u?
You are right, I had to cut the boot to fit around the roll bars. I used a hole saw and a grinder and carfully shaped it to fit. Here is a pic showing the cut area better. I am located in Lake Lure, NC. About 45 minutes S.E. of Asheville.
Attached Thumbnails Guys with roll bars come in PLEASE!!-pic_0035.jpg  
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Old Oct 12, 2006 | 07:52 PM
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Ahh...ok. That makes sense now. You did a good job! Wanna do mine when I get the wolfe in?? J/K....I know where Lake Lure is...right near Chimney Rock. Thanks for the additional pic.
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