Over rev'd engine, check engine light now on. Suggestions
Over rev'd engine, check engine light now on. Suggestions I slipped in quite a dumb move today in my stock '00 6spd. Accidentally slipped the trans in 2nd gear and "over rev'd" the engine. I was moving about 80-85mph when it happened. Let out the clutch, heard the motor over rev and instantly pushed the clutch back down. Right after, the check engine light came on and the display read something about reduced power. Car gradually slowed down (would not accelerate) and motor sounded like it was "missing" quite badly. Temp and oil gauges stayed normal. I pulled over about 1/4 - 1/2 mile from where it happened, shut the car off and checked under hood and under car for leaks, no leaks. Started the car back up after a few minutes, ran/idled rough but it did stay running. Drove the car about 1/2 mile to a safe location. All gauges stayed normal, check engine light stayed on and the car would accelerate but ran sluggish. The motor wasn't making any "knocking" noises, but more like a "thud" noise like it was running on 4 cylinders. When I arrived to a safe parking location the car did idle but very sluggishly around 400rpm. I did not notice any off smells or leaks.
Please post your thoughts, helpful tips or suggestions, etc.
Thanks,
Jarol
Please post your thoughts, helpful tips or suggestions, etc.
Thanks,
Jarol
reset your pcm first. might have just gone into limp mode to protect itself from you lol. seriously reset the pcm. see if it fixes it. if your not hearing any knocking or tapping there is no point in doing that first. you can remove both battery cables and hold them together for 3-10seconds and put back on. or you can turn the ignition to the on position with out turning the vehicle on and pull the pcm fuses then place them back in, turn off the ignition wait a few seconds and turn it completely on.
Checked the codes yesterday afternoon. We found out (via Snap-on PCM scanner) it was a MAF sensor code and 6 out of the 8 cylinders were missing. Towed the unit to the homestead and did a compression check where 4 cylinders showed no compression, 1 at 85, 1 at 130 and 2 at 155-160.
So the result of my hand to shifter miss calculation is a bunch of bent valves and push rods. And what does that equal folks? ... I have a nice winter project that's getting a new top end.
My 3 choices as of thus far:
-Cheap route= Fix back to stock and enjoy
-Little added performance= Add LS6 heads w/porting & polishing
-Add much more go-juice= examples: Trick Flow GenX top end kit, Ported & polished LS6 or AFR or Trick Flow heads & cam w/fair idle, etc and really enjoy
So the result of my hand to shifter miss calculation is a bunch of bent valves and push rods. And what does that equal folks? ... I have a nice winter project that's getting a new top end.
My 3 choices as of thus far:
-Cheap route= Fix back to stock and enjoy
-Little added performance= Add LS6 heads w/porting & polishing
-Add much more go-juice= examples: Trick Flow GenX top end kit, Ported & polished LS6 or AFR or Trick Flow heads & cam w/fair idle, etc and really enjoy
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Well I'm glad you found out what was wrong but sorry to hear it's gonna be expensive. Did you pull the heads or scope in the cylinder to see if the pistons it damaged.
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Verdad Gallardo oooo damn. wow. i bet you will never miss another shift again. lol. on the more serious side. the only to find out is to pull the heads off and hope you didnt do any damage to the pistons or the cylinders. might wanna pull the pan to check out bottom end. cheap side is probably gonna be around $2700 if you do the work for top end or 5k if you do build an engine on your own. expect it to cost more if you have someone else do it. so to hear about your misfortune. keep us updated on your boosted stroker build lol
Agreed, it took alot of surfing and calls but I found an new LS6 long block for $3245 including shipping, It's in my '99 Z28 now!
Jacking up the valve train, I'm not all that worried and getting bent out of shape about. But if there's bottom end damage, I'm gonna have to choke a bitch, lol, because the car has 36,201 miles.
Build it back better than before every time it breaks
Again, would be easier (and probably better) to just find an LS2 or LS6 to put in.
BTW, Mileage on the motor doesn't really matter. Mileage on the car itself does. Low miles cars feel more solid and ride better. They're usually quieter and have less electrical problems. But the LSx motors go forever as long as they're well maintained. Putting another motor in isn't the end of the world, and won't effect anything negatively.
Thanks for the input. And indeed, inspecting the pistons is pretty much a given since the heads must come off. I'm just saying, it's going to be one heck of a bummer to replace an engine that was a perfectly fine 36k mile unit that still had much more life to it.
