Hey peps,

I'm just wondering if I install H/C/I/E on a Manual C5 Vette, how well will the rest of the car hold up?

Will I have problems with the transmission, rear end or anything else that might need beefing up?

And roughly what sort of hp could I expect with this type of set up?

Cheers for the advise

Paul

 

Anywhere from 430-500 to the tires depending how "wild"of a setup you go with...And for how the rest of the car holds up depends on how you drive it and what you do with the car........

 

Hi RedcorVette2000

Thanks for your reply.

Assuming I aim for around 460hp, I'm unlikely to be doing burnouts and doughnuts, and rarely drag racing, am I likely to have anything else fail? Or is the Vette built to take this kind of power increase?

Thanks again, and happy holiday's

 

If you drive it easy everything should be fine....I would maybe ugrade my clutch when i had the cash...No sticky tires or hard launching and should should be fine, at least for a while...As far as tracking the car imo its a flip of the coin on needing a tow home or not. With that kind of power some things are going to start breaking

 

You should be fine long as you r not shocking the rear by dumping the clutch. But yes an aftermarket clutch is a must with that kind of power. GL with your setup man

 

You should be fine, just be careful when entering wheel hop make sure to get out of it quickly

 

wheelhop=death

 

Just store it in the garage and you should be fine.



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With 460 rwhp your trans and diff should hold up well unless u abuse the car alot. I would just upgrade the clutch and flywheel too while ur at it, my buddy burned his stock clutch on the dyno when his car was getting tuned lol

 

Thanks for all your replies, appreciate the info.

 

It all depends on how big you go. Depending on your setup you are looking at either low 400's to low 500's. There is a big gap for performance when you go heads and cam. But like others have stated. Probably a new clutch and don't launch it really hard and not sticky tires and you should be fine.

 

Get a DTE trans-brace, and the stock clutch isn't worth **** past 400RWHP. Get a clutch. I don't recommend the LS7 clutch for anything past 450RWHP, but it will still hold up for a while at 460RWHP. I would recommend an ACT or Monster clutch. If you're not doing super hard launches or power shifting a lot, the LS7 clutch will be OK for daily driving.

If you have the cash to do it while you're there, get a better radiator and an oil cooler. More power = more heat. Oil cooler will help more than anything.

And it'll help lower the engine bay temps if you get a good powder coating on the headers. Jet-coat works well.

Last but not least, if you want to be able to push that power from a dig, get the hardened driver side output shaft.

 

Trans and diff will hold up, but the output shafts don't like hard launches on sticky tires. So if you go with one, you go with them both. Hardened shafts and sticky tires or none at all...

 

I went through this last year and ended up with H/C/I/E at around 450RWHP (haven't dynoed since several mods I've put on but hoping for 460+). Anyways, my stock clutch didn't last more than a couple thousand miles on this setup - started slipping bad at the top of 3rd/4th with only 30K miles on it.

I put in a twin disk clutch to prevent any chatter and it has a light pedal as well. Also you'll want a tick adjustable master cylinder to ensure effortless shifts - I love mine.

For the drivetrain the stock trans and diff are fine but I would put a brace on the differential and at least upgrade the driver's side output shaft to a C6Z piece. They're only like $70 and pretty easy to install - just a pain to remove the diff. As mentioned I wouldn't be running slicks even with this setup. DR's are fine as long as you're not getting any wheel hop.

 

I am currently at 475rwhp and 410rwtq CAM ONLY tho. I had to upgrade the clutch with just bolt ons was slipping real bad 2nd on up. But I would recommend for that kind of power a new clutch first a tranny brace (I have the Pfadt one, but will install a DTE when I beef up the tanny in a week) and since your not going to track it the shafts will be fine, just as someone mentioned wheel hop=death I snaped one of my output shafts STOCK just b/c of wheel hop, so once you feel it start to wheel hop get off the gas instantly. These cars and engines can take a lot just as long as your good on you maintance. What kind of heads and cam were you thinking.

 

475RWHP Cam-only...you got an LS3 in that thing?

 

Haha I knew someone would say something about that. And yes stock LS6 with untouched 243 head cam only it made 462rwhp on the second pull and 475rwhp on the 3rd dyno pull and the A/F ratio is dead on just a slight on the rich side but I like my car like that for spray. But I had Pat @ Quality Motorsports in Lewisville tune it and could not be more happy, he and Sam88 are the best in my opnion for DFW Texas.

 

Just seems a little high from the different cam-only LS6's I've seen on here and the vette board at least. I would think to get anywhere near that you would need a pretty large cam, ported 92 or 102 intake/TB, LG Pro LT's and catless X w/ some catback or cutouts, light clutch, an EWP plus a good tune. All that said I would still expect around 460 max but then again a dyno is just a tuning tool and the track tells the real story.

 

II do still have the LS6 Intake as well just full bolt ons beside that and the cam is a TREX Cam from Thunder Racing. And it has been on 2 dynos since the last tune. And trust me some times I just lie about my numbers, just I dont have to explain how it happened. But I have a buddy with the same mods and same car and setup and he put down 459rwhp so I don't think it is not that beliveable just rare to see numbers that high for cam only but it is as big as you can go without fly cutting the pistons.

 

TREK or TRAK?