LQ9; is 100lbs on the nose a huge deal?
#1
LQ9; is 100lbs on the nose a huge deal?
Well as per my other post, looking at a C5 with a 6.0 iron block swap. I've been reading up a bit on what I can find about it. Looks like the Lq9 is 80-100lbs heavier. Is it that big of a deal? It's only putting 420rwhp at the moment, I'd do a big H/C swap or FI later. Just see people arguing over LS2 v Lq9 swaps.
#2
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I went with lq9..
If you're buying new you have to decide how much # is worth spending/saving for 110#. If you're going to offset the weight by buying a k member, a arms, etc etc.. Just buy the aluminum to.begin with as that is actually cheaper
.1 difference at ghetto drag strip.
If staying na I would go aluminum, anything else I would go iron.
If you're buying new you have to decide how much # is worth spending/saving for 110#. If you're going to offset the weight by buying a k member, a arms, etc etc.. Just buy the aluminum to.begin with as that is actually cheaper
.1 difference at ghetto drag strip.
If staying na I would go aluminum, anything else I would go iron.
#3
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Well as per my other post, looking at a C5 with a 6.0 iron block swap. I've been reading up a bit on what I can find about it. Looks like the Lq9 is 80-100lbs heavier. Is it that big of a deal? It's only putting 420rwhp at the moment, I'd do a big H/C swap or FI later. Just see people arguing over LS2 v Lq9 swaps.
Only way I would go IRON in a vette, is if I was trying to make big forced induction and bigger power.
#7
I have done it in many of my personal cars as well as countless customer cars. The only time I see the weight being an issue is in a road race application. I am told from our customers that they can feel the extra weight in the front of the car in high G cornering. Also the weight difference is 69-72lbs. We weigh and ship these motors daily and have never seen more than that on a basic iron block. You will see more on forged motors and significantly more on lsx blocks but the basic LQ9 is only about 70lbs. I would not let it deter you from the car.
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#10
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I have, however driven a maggied Z06 and it didnt seem to handle any different than my NA Z06...
JMHO
#12
Thanks for the info and advise! I feel like I atleast understand more now. Haha
Is there a way I could go about taking advantage of an iron block keeping it NA? For around $1,500-$2,000? I feel like I'd get carried away, and I don't have the cash flow or time to maintain a DD 800rwhp or more FI car. Haha
My situation is a guy is wanting to trade me a bike (I've been wanting another since I sold my R6) and cash for my V. And this thing popped up, in my range and with decent mileage. I don't have to have this one, just the only good buy around at the moment that I can find, and maybe a safe way to make lots of power, it being an iron block.
Is there a way I could go about taking advantage of an iron block keeping it NA? For around $1,500-$2,000? I feel like I'd get carried away, and I don't have the cash flow or time to maintain a DD 800rwhp or more FI car. Haha
My situation is a guy is wanting to trade me a bike (I've been wanting another since I sold my R6) and cash for my V. And this thing popped up, in my range and with decent mileage. I don't have to have this one, just the only good buy around at the moment that I can find, and maybe a safe way to make lots of power, it being an iron block.
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Im taking an the LS1 out of my car and it is being replaced with an iron block. Like mentioned above I bought a k-member, tubular A-arms, coilovers, etc. to offset the weight difference. Plus Im adding a single front mount turbo so any weight I might gain in the front can be offset by PSI.
I wouldn't let the iron block deter you away from the car, I have driven and riden in many cars with iron blocks and you wouldn't even notice the difference.
There would be no "power" difference in the block material, just the added cubes (im guessing the reason they put the iron block in the vette to begin with). Nitrous kist are decently cheap used, just spray it and make up what you lost in weight and then some.
I wouldn't let the iron block deter you away from the car, I have driven and riden in many cars with iron blocks and you wouldn't even notice the difference.
There would be no "power" difference in the block material, just the added cubes (im guessing the reason they put the iron block in the vette to begin with). Nitrous kist are decently cheap used, just spray it and make up what you lost in weight and then some.
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#16
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Im taking an the LS1 out of my car and it is being replaced with an iron block. Like mentioned above I bought a k-member, tubular A-arms, coilovers, etc. to offset the weight difference. Plus Im adding a single front mount turbo so any weight I might gain in the front can be offset by PSI.
I wouldn't let the iron block deter you away from the car, I have driven and riden in many cars with iron blocks and you wouldn't even notice the difference.
There would be no "power" difference in the block material, just the added cubes (im guessing the reason they put the iron block in the vette to begin with). Nitrous kist are decently cheap used, just spray it and make up what you lost in weight and then some.
I wouldn't let the iron block deter you away from the car, I have driven and riden in many cars with iron blocks and you wouldn't even notice the difference.
There would be no "power" difference in the block material, just the added cubes (im guessing the reason they put the iron block in the vette to begin with). Nitrous kist are decently cheap used, just spray it and make up what you lost in weight and then some.
I will be adding all the lite weight suspension pieces as well but not because I bought Iron over Aluminum, but because it is part of the modding process... I will however be going with an aluminum block next time around, I had to get something decent in the car now and didn't have the extra change for an aluminum stroker.
#17
Unless you do a lot of HPDEs or road race you probably won't notice that much of a difference. It won't dissipate heat like an Al block will though. I don't knock about the lq9 but the lsx iron block is 100+ lbs more than the Al block. ~120-130 iirc
#19
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I'm really proud of my lightweight, non gutted 3128lb forced induction car with half a tank of gas, and a 25lb fire bottle in it. Would another 100lbs on the front matter , in MY world, yes. I like to "track" the car...and you can use that term any way you want...and another 100lbs on the front, would change the way drive the vehicle...without a doubt.
Good news is, you can adjust , and mod in some way shape or form for it to not be noticeable. One, you start driving it like it is, you'll never notice the difference.
Two..if you wanted to make a change..What do you know about coilovers? What I know is, it was one of the best mods I have ever done to a car, any car, not just for adjustability,..but, the dynamic feel you get, in a vette, with coilovers, is like, serious street car but, can easily turn into race car really quickly. It makes the car so much more enjoyable to drive. Mine is pretty much a race setup...with minimum adjustments,..but if you wanted to have it softer,..there are adjustable sets out there. If you wanted it firmer,..obviously turn it clockwise...
My point is,..you could spec out a firmer rate spring,...and upgrade your shocks at the same time. You'd never know the difference,...and in the end, you'd get more feedback from the car. Making it much more enjoyable to drive.
Win.
Do it.
Or buy it, keep it how it is, and just enjoy it.
Good news is, you can adjust , and mod in some way shape or form for it to not be noticeable. One, you start driving it like it is, you'll never notice the difference.
Two..if you wanted to make a change..What do you know about coilovers? What I know is, it was one of the best mods I have ever done to a car, any car, not just for adjustability,..but, the dynamic feel you get, in a vette, with coilovers, is like, serious street car but, can easily turn into race car really quickly. It makes the car so much more enjoyable to drive. Mine is pretty much a race setup...with minimum adjustments,..but if you wanted to have it softer,..there are adjustable sets out there. If you wanted it firmer,..obviously turn it clockwise...
My point is,..you could spec out a firmer rate spring,...and upgrade your shocks at the same time. You'd never know the difference,...and in the end, you'd get more feedback from the car. Making it much more enjoyable to drive.
Win.
Do it.
Or buy it, keep it how it is, and just enjoy it.