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LQ9; is 100lbs on the nose a huge deal?

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Old 01-11-2013, 12:22 PM
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Main difference, lq4 has a lower CR because of dished pistons.

If you're spraying or all motor try to get an lq9 if staying stock bottom.. If boost get an lq4.

If you are forging it, it is irrelevant.
Old 01-13-2013, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Broski
Thanks for the info and advise! I feel like I atleast understand more now. Haha

Is there a way I could go about taking advantage of an iron block keeping it NA? For around $1,500-$2,000? I feel like I'd get carried away, and I don't have the cash flow or time to maintain a DD 800rwhp or more FI car. Haha

My situation is a guy is wanting to trade me a bike (I've been wanting another since I sold my R6) and cash for my V. And this thing popped up, in my range and with decent mileage. I don't have to have this one, just the only good buy around at the moment that I can find, and maybe a safe way to make lots of power, it being an iron block.
use the extra money you save with the lq9 on a set of cnc heads , i heve a thompson 408 in the works for my 2002 z06
Old 01-21-2013, 12:29 PM
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LQ4 iron vs LS2 aluminum. The price difference is stupid. Lq4 stock longblock all day long $800-1500. LS2 longblock? $3500-7000. Same cubes. Im putting a forged 370 Lq4 in the vette. 100lbs heavier? So what. Id rather have a bullet proof forged iron block N/A and have the capability to upgrade to serious FI set up down the road without having to build another block. You want to offset the weight? Get lighter wheels and relocate your 40lb battery to the trunk. Cut your rotational mass down by 60lbs, keep your creature conforts and you will be happy. Like these guys said dont let iron blocks deter you.



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