My new rollbar
The reasons I didn't use the Speedworks bar are: painted red; non NHRA legal front bars; fronts were not removable
The reasons I didn't use the Wolfe Racecraft bar are: Not ready for sale; "bent" style rears are not NHRA legal and are not as strong as straight bars; no diagnonal in main hoop; lower fronts not mounted on cross bulkhead
I spoke with Lou/LGM and here are the specs of the setup I finally came up with that meet or exceed all of my criteria:
Custom 6 Point Rollbar
1. Construction: Mild Steel - 1 3/4" x 0.120
2. Paint: Powder coated / anondized black (or other equivalent durable paint method)
3. Main hoop: welded to cross bulkhead with 3/16 plates; road race style diagnonal bar; low horizontal cross bar; bracket provisions for driver and passenger restraints
4. Rear bars: Straight design; side clearance for mini-tubs
5. Front bars: Pinned and removable (driver and passenger); elbow height "NHRA" style
My car is at LGM now and the bar should be finished by the end of the week. I'll post some pics when it's done without the interior. I'm going to dynomat it first and then reinstall the interior, and then hopefully order the restraints.
-Jeremy
[ December 11, 2001: Message edited by: Godspeed ]</p>
I checked with both NHRA and Open Road Racing Rulebooks. The 2001 Rule Book for Open Road Racing requires 4130 Chrome Moly to be at least 1.50" x 0.120 and the NHRA Rulebooks states the 4130 Chrome Moly bar needs to be 1 5/8 x 0.083. Also for Mild Steel tubing the Open Road Race Rulebook requires 1.75" x 0.120 and the NHRA Rulebook requires 1.75" x 0.118.
Mild Steel:
NHRA - 1 3/4" x 0.118
Road Race - 1 1/2" x 0.120
4130 Chrome Moly:
NHRA - 1 5/8" x 0.083
Road Race - 1 3/4" x 0.120
So to meet both of these requirements I'm just going to go with Mild Steel 1.75" x 0.120 and not have the weight savings I had hoped for.
If you would like to read over any of these Rulebooks, here is where I found the information.
Open Road Racing Rulebook
http://www.openroadracing.com/Rulebook/Rulebook.htm
NHRA Rulebook -
http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html
-Jeremy
[ December 11, 2001: Message edited by: Godspeed ]</p>
I was thinking the same time, but we can't always change the way the cards are dealt. I'd like to do the mini-tubs myself and am also considering the LPE kit, so it will be a fun Janurary project for me. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
-Jeremy
the bar will receive the 6th point tomorrow morning, and then go to the powder coater. the mini tubs are not a problem. the down bars are not in the way for larger tubs. Composite work is tedious and does require the help of an assistant to ease installation. We can help you out any step of the way. BTW, love the wheel combo. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
-Jeremy
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I have a hoop that I bent that will reach to convertible top as high as possible, but never finished it as it looks like we are selling the car this week.
Dave
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I have a hoop that I bent that will reach to convertible top as high as possible, but never finished it as it looks like we are selling the car this week.
Dave
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I'm not sure about the Convertibles, but for the Coupes and Hartops the best place to mount the main hoop is the cross bulkhead in the C5. There isn't much behind the seats on the floor of the car except a thin piece of metal.
Cost, installed, is $1195 for the .120 wall NHRA bar.
The SCCA road race bar 1 3/4"x.095 wall is $200 less, installed. or $595 + shipping.
Thanks,
Lou Gigliotti LG Motorsports
-Jeremy
If anyone has the exact wording of the nhra rule, I would be interested in hearing how they address the f body, and how that is different than the C5 cross bulkhead. The C5 is just a hybrid of a frame car, and a unibody construction.
Thanks,
Lou Gigliotti LG Motorsports







