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I need a hard duty output shaft! Any ideas?

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Old 07-16-2005 | 03:33 AM
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Default I need a hard duty output shaft! Any ideas?

I have been looking at buying a hardened output shaft. But the guy I talked to at a corvette parts shop said he can't guarantee that it won't break. I will have 150shot on my Vette in the near future putting in the neighborhood of 500-550rwhp (hopefully ) and I want to be sure I put an output shaft in that won't snap! The parts guy I spoke with said he has seen guys with 700hp+ not break them, and others who have stock motors break them. I launch very hard on my Vette and need something that can handle the stress. Thanks in advance!!!!!!!
Old 07-16-2005 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 00Vette
I have been looking at buying a hardened output shaft. But the guy I talked to at a corvette parts shop said he can't guarantee that it won't break. I will have 150shot on my Vette in the near future putting in the neighborhood of 500-550rwhp (hopefully ) and I want to be sure I put an output shaft in that won't snap! The parts guy I spoke with said he has seen guys with 700hp+ not break them, and others who have stock motors break them. I launch very hard on my Vette and need something that can handle the stress. Thanks in advance!!!!!!!
Call Rodney @ RPM transmissions(765)-524-5341 and tell him Phil sent ya.
Phil
Old 07-16-2005 | 12:31 PM
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dude i have close to that and the first thing i have broke so far is my rear end housing. I have not heard of many blowing those output shafts up. Mine hold up really well. Going to get them NDT'd for cracks then prolly reuse them. Alot I mean alot of guys are running well over 600 now with f/i setups and that is not one probelm any of them seem to have.
Old 07-16-2005 | 06:36 PM
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Just my .02...
- If you drag race with drag radials you are flirting with disaster
- I have over 2 years and 80 passes with revlimiter launches on my setup and haven't broken with 60's sub 1.45
- IMO its the sudden jolt that shears off the output shaft
- ET streets are soo much easier on the axles and joints due to their bias ply construction
- Clutch setup is important
Old 07-18-2005 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Just my .02...
- If you drag race with drag radials you are flirting with disaster
- I have over 2 years and 80 passes with revlimiter launches on my setup and haven't broken with 60's sub 1.45
- IMO its the sudden jolt that shears off the output shaft
- ET streets are soo much easier on the axles and joints due to their bias ply construction
- Clutch setup is important
I'm having some transmission work done and trying to fix my slipping clutch problem. I figured I'd change out the output shaft since I hear they break with higher HP cars and aren't that expensive ($350 or so). Do you think I need to? If not, what should I worry about since I got the tranny/rear end out? I don't have alot of money to spend either!
Old 07-18-2005 | 09:47 PM
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I broke mine last night at the track on 295 Comp-TA (not drag radials) sliping the clutch out at 3k.
Matt
Old 07-18-2005 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BadMonkey
dude i have close to that and the first thing i have broke so far is my rear end housing. I have not heard of many blowing those output shafts up. Mine hold up really well. Going to get them NDT'd for cracks then prolly reuse them. Alot I mean alot of guys are running well over 600 now with f/i setups and that is not one probelm any of them seem to have.
Thanks for the post. Nice car BTW!!! Have you ran it at the drag strip yet? If so what does it run? I've ran a best of 12.697@113 before my clutch/tranny issues
Old 07-19-2005 | 02:50 AM
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00vette, not only a hardened shaft but also a DTE strut brace is in order. One more item, if you haven't allready, a good clutch. I am going the Textraila, DTE and hardened shaft route. So far no breakage on stock stuff, but like Phil said you'll be flirting with disaster. I run 315 bfg's and there's not much side wall and grip like a ****, and I launch pretty hard considering all stock. I just try to stay away from absolute dead hooking. Oh yea, I am spraying sometimes too. You go to Pacific or Bremerton? Maybe we've talked before?
Robert
Old 07-19-2005 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
00vette, not only a hardened shaft but also a DTE strut brace is in order. One more item, if you haven't allready, a good clutch. I am going the Textraila, DTE and hardened shaft route. So far no breakage on stock stuff, but like Phil said you'll be flirting with disaster. I run 315 bfg's and there's not much side wall and grip like a ****, and I launch pretty hard considering all stock. I just try to stay away from absolute dead hooking. Oh yea, I am spraying sometimes too. You go to Pacific or Bremerton? Maybe we've talked before?
Robert
Yeah I've talked to you before. I have the blck/blck 2000 C5. I race at Bremerton stirctly and have see you at both Bremerton and PR. I'll look into the DTE strut brace. How much do they usually cost? and where can I get one from? BTW, I also run BFG 315 DR's. I talked to you and you were gonna help me with my nitrous setup. I was gonna buy it this past weekend but my clutch and tranny are having some issues. I need to fix them before I can get some N20.............LOL. BTW, I love your car. Quick and beautiful. Thanks for the info.
-Jon-
Old 07-19-2005 | 06:14 PM
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Yea, I remember. I got my DTE off the corvetteforum parts site, used, or you can go to their web site. My Textraila should be here any day. I also put the hurt on my clutch trying to do a ***** out dual stg run at Pacific, oh well, I knew I was on borrowed time. Since that happened, my best time has been 1.70 60' and 12.04 et and it likes to stick to the floor now. Oh the price on the DTE is about 380 new and I got mine good shape used for 320 and considering the cost of gear case and sometimes trans case/trans main shaft it's a steel. When ever your ready for the gas just shoot me a pm or go to the n2o section.
Robert
Old 07-19-2005 | 06:27 PM
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If you remove the spring from the clutch pedal it will feel more positive and never stick again.
Phil
Old 07-19-2005 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
If you remove the spring from the clutch pedal it will feel more positive and never stick again.
Phil
Yea, I've heard/read something about that spring before. Why does it seem to be only a problem high rpm shifting and showed up outa no where. It seemed to be at same time my clutch started slipping? Any insight? Thanks
Robert
Old 07-19-2005 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Yea, I've heard/read something about that spring before. Why does it seem to be only a problem high rpm shifting and showed up outa no where. It seemed to be at same time my clutch started slipping? Any insight? Thanks
Robert
I did some research on z06.com about that spring removal thing! You might want to research it! Do a search on yahoo or something. Lots of guys have removed that spring and swear by it. I'm just gonna go with a Mcleod adjustable master cylinder, (I currently have a centerforce dual friction clutch) and if need be go with the mcleod clutch!



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