$1600. Thanks 
How much for C5 alum. Driveshaft?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 319
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From: Tennessee
LG sells a carbon fiber shaft. Can you buy just the driveshaft from GM or do you have to buy the entire torque tube assembly? I would check with Gene at the Karshop and see if he can get you a used one. Those things very rarely fail.
Email me and I could see if we have any take out units that would fit your car.
anthony@lgmotorsports.com
anthony@lgmotorsports.com
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 654
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From: Dallas/Wylie Texas
The problem is NOT the donuts or aluminum coupler. The problem is that the stock driveshaft flexes. It actually "whips" like a jump rope. that is what destroys the rubber donuts and ultimately the drive shaft it self.
We have our exclusive Carbon fiber shaft that is a direct replacement for the stock aluminum shaft. Did you ever wonder what the "Disc" was for in the middle of the stock alum shaft? IT is there to limit how much the stock shaft can flex or "Whip". Then the stock shaft will take a set and not be straight. When you take one apart you will see that the disc has a rub mark but on one side only. this is because it is now bent in that direction and it will hit or rub in that spot only.
Our Carbon shaft is only 1 pound lighter. It is not the weight that makes the difference but the stiffness. The rigidity of the carbon shaft is so great that it will not flex up to 10,000 rpms +.
Also keep in mind that the stock Corvette drive shaft is nothing more than a Transmission Input shaft extension since the trans is behind the drive shaft.
We ran our Carbon shaft in our 2004 race car with both rubber donuts in place and had Zero problems even with Standing starts and 7800 rpm shifts (in2004) and a 140mph drag race run where we destroyed 3 differentials but the shaft was perfect.
Now this year we have our carbon shaft in our World Challenge race car with one rubber and one aluminum coupler and we just checked it this week and it and each coupler is perfect.
So remember, all drive shaft problems are caused by the stock shaft whipping like a jump rope, not the rubber donuts giving out.
Thanks
Lou Gigliotti LGM
We have our exclusive Carbon fiber shaft that is a direct replacement for the stock aluminum shaft. Did you ever wonder what the "Disc" was for in the middle of the stock alum shaft? IT is there to limit how much the stock shaft can flex or "Whip". Then the stock shaft will take a set and not be straight. When you take one apart you will see that the disc has a rub mark but on one side only. this is because it is now bent in that direction and it will hit or rub in that spot only.
Our Carbon shaft is only 1 pound lighter. It is not the weight that makes the difference but the stiffness. The rigidity of the carbon shaft is so great that it will not flex up to 10,000 rpms +.
Also keep in mind that the stock Corvette drive shaft is nothing more than a Transmission Input shaft extension since the trans is behind the drive shaft.
We ran our Carbon shaft in our 2004 race car with both rubber donuts in place and had Zero problems even with Standing starts and 7800 rpm shifts (in2004) and a 140mph drag race run where we destroyed 3 differentials but the shaft was perfect.
Now this year we have our carbon shaft in our World Challenge race car with one rubber and one aluminum coupler and we just checked it this week and it and each coupler is perfect.
So remember, all drive shaft problems are caused by the stock shaft whipping like a jump rope, not the rubber donuts giving out.
Thanks
Lou Gigliotti LGM
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 254
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From: NC
That was not my experience, but I believe you.
I'll likely be running LG's shaft when I find a sponsor.
Dave
** how does your shaft compare to the early C5 carbon shafts. Appearantly GM had a lot of trouble with those***
I'll likely be running LG's shaft when I find a sponsor.
Dave
** how does your shaft compare to the early C5 carbon shafts. Appearantly GM had a lot of trouble with those***
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FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 654
Likes: 0
From: Dallas/Wylie Texas
Originally Posted by Dave F
That was not my experience, but I believe you.
I'll likely be running LG's shaft when I find a sponsor.
Dave
** how does your shaft compare to the early C5 carbon shafts. Appearantly GM had a lot of trouble with those***
I'll likely be running LG's shaft when I find a sponsor.
Dave
** how does your shaft compare to the early C5 carbon shafts. Appearantly GM had a lot of trouble with those***
what GM carbon shafts?
we have 2 full seasons of testing on our shafts, plus multiple drag racing runs with no issues.
every Corvette in the series (regulars) run our carbon shaft.
What exactly was your experience David?
An alluminum coupler will not stop any drive shaft problems if you continue to use the stock aluminum drive shaft.
LG
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From: Southern Maryland
I think you guys are off target here. I guess my initial plee for help may have been misleading. I already have the CF driveshaft in my car and I would like to know what the price of the aluminum driveshafts are going for NEW and USED so I can have a ball park price range to sell mine on e-bay. When I called the dealership they told me a new driveshaft with the couplings/donuts was $1600 (ouch). I guess I should have posted that in the first place. Thanks for all the replies though......I have to tell you all that I love the way the CF driveshaft looks 
Compared to the stock driveshaft its way beefier looking. I wonder if it will improve my ET's 
Only one way to find out 
Compared to the stock driveshaft its way beefier looking. I wonder if it will improve my ET's Only one way to find out Launching!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: NC
Well, you know the price of a new shaft, and I certainly wouldn't suggest buying a used one. GM doubled the price of the new units a few years ago. The first one I bought was only around $900, but the same part number is over $1500 now.
Per GMPartsdirect.com, msrp is $2653, there price is $1512. Part # 12564457
The aluminum shaft itself if 88894016, and is $1083/$617, and for what it's worth, the bearings are around $50 each.
Lou, I don't know for a fact what caused my failured, I never had an whipping symptons until other items failed. If your unit will last multiple seasons with no servicing (bearing, donuts etc) then it is a definite upgrade and I need one!
Dave
Per GMPartsdirect.com, msrp is $2653, there price is $1512. Part # 12564457
The aluminum shaft itself if 88894016, and is $1083/$617, and for what it's worth, the bearings are around $50 each.
Lou, I don't know for a fact what caused my failured, I never had an whipping symptons until other items failed. If your unit will last multiple seasons with no servicing (bearing, donuts etc) then it is a definite upgrade and I need one!
Dave
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From: Southern Maryland
Dave,
What Lou is trying to say is that the Aluminum driveshafts flex (like a jump-rope)! And that they have a donut (plastic wheel) around the center of the driveshaft, inside the tq tube to minimize the flex. Although The wheel is there to help minimize flex, you can see rub marks from the wheel on the inside of the tq tube. I'm assuming with the extensive research LG has done that this is definate hapening to high hp applications...... I would definately get one if you can. Anthony hooked me up with mine. He's a great guy, and will do you right!!
What Lou is trying to say is that the Aluminum driveshafts flex (like a jump-rope)! And that they have a donut (plastic wheel) around the center of the driveshaft, inside the tq tube to minimize the flex. Although The wheel is there to help minimize flex, you can see rub marks from the wheel on the inside of the tq tube. I'm assuming with the extensive research LG has done that this is definate hapening to high hp applications...... I would definately get one if you can. Anthony hooked me up with mine. He's a great guy, and will do you right!!
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 654
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From: Dallas/Wylie Texas
Keep in mind that pre 2001, they had a smaller rubber coupler with 10mm bolts. these fail easier than the larger Z06 and late 2001 units that come with 12mm bolts.
Not knowing what a Whipping drive shaft looks like is like not knowing what a floating valve spring looks like. Neither one shows signs of a problem but they both certainly have issues.
The symptoms of a whipping drive shaft IS the failure of the rubber copulers.
It is not the high hp alone that kills the shafts, it is the RPMs. the drive shaft always spins at engine RPM it only has engine torque transmitted through it. Unlike a standard drive shaft that gets the torque multiplied by the transmission.
The plastic disc bonded to the aluminum drive shaft can only limit how far the shaft can deflect. If you think about that then you can imagine that the rubber copplers are also deflected an equal amount. that is why the rubber couplers fail.
Thanks
Lou G
Not knowing what a Whipping drive shaft looks like is like not knowing what a floating valve spring looks like. Neither one shows signs of a problem but they both certainly have issues.
The symptoms of a whipping drive shaft IS the failure of the rubber copulers.
It is not the high hp alone that kills the shafts, it is the RPMs. the drive shaft always spins at engine RPM it only has engine torque transmitted through it. Unlike a standard drive shaft that gets the torque multiplied by the transmission.
The plastic disc bonded to the aluminum drive shaft can only limit how far the shaft can deflect. If you think about that then you can imagine that the rubber copplers are also deflected an equal amount. that is why the rubber couplers fail.
Thanks
Lou G
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From: Southern Maryland
Originally Posted by LG Motorsports
Keep in mind that pre 2001, they had a smaller rubber coupler with 10mm bolts. these fail easier than the larger Z06 and late 2001 units that come with 12mm bolts.
Not knowing what a Whipping drive shaft looks like is like not knowing what a floating valve spring looks like. Neither one shows signs of a problem but they both certainly have issues.
The symptoms of a whipping drive shaft IS the failure of the rubber copulers.
It is not the high hp alone that kills the shafts, it is the RPMs. the drive shaft always spins at engine RPM it only has engine torque transmitted through it. Unlike a standard drive shaft that gets the torque multiplied by the transmission.
The plastic disc bonded to the aluminum drive shaft can only limit how far the shaft can deflect. If you think about that then you can imagine that the rubber copplers are also deflected an equal amount. that is why the rubber couplers fail.
Thanks
Lou G
Not knowing what a Whipping drive shaft looks like is like not knowing what a floating valve spring looks like. Neither one shows signs of a problem but they both certainly have issues.
The symptoms of a whipping drive shaft IS the failure of the rubber copulers.
It is not the high hp alone that kills the shafts, it is the RPMs. the drive shaft always spins at engine RPM it only has engine torque transmitted through it. Unlike a standard drive shaft that gets the torque multiplied by the transmission.
The plastic disc bonded to the aluminum drive shaft can only limit how far the shaft can deflect. If you think about that then you can imagine that the rubber copplers are also deflected an equal amount. that is why the rubber couplers fail.
Thanks
Lou G
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 654
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From: Dallas/Wylie Texas
I am not sure if it matters, but we put the rubber coupler in the front position near the clutch. If everything was perfect then it would not matter, but the machining process is such that we felt better putting the aluminum coupler at the rear. There is some give in the shaft going into the drive shaft at the transmission.
I am not sure if there is a difference but we have had no issues using the aluminum at the rear.
thanks
Lou g
I am not sure if there is a difference but we have had no issues using the aluminum at the rear.
thanks
Lou g
