rms-man

iTrader: (11)

I know I need to pull the drivetrain out first, but once I do, is it possible to remove the rear main seal and install a new one without any problems?

Has anyone actually done it or seen it done? Is it a must to have the special tools associated with the task?

Thanks to anyone that can help. I tried the "search" on several sites but never got good results.

Thanks,
Joshua

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

Hey Josh. As you mentioned, you would need to remove the obviously obstructive drivetrain parts to get to it but, yes, you could do it in the actual car. Once the torque tube is removed, and the soo called belhousing, you have a pretty decent amount of room to work with.

You would, need a special tool to re-install.

Tell you what...here's my email... www.jwells@veracadillac.com

I don't access LS1tech at work,...but I do visit my email during the day alot. Email me tomorrow,...and I'll give you more detailed instructions,....step by step.

Cool?

cool.

Later man.

J

MSGHUFF

iTrader: (7)

I replaced mine about 3 weeks ago in my garage. When I installed the seal on my shortblock the first time I used the screwdriver method that was posted on here..... and even though I was extremly carful I must have slightly nicked the seal. Anyways, I didnt remove the bellhousing but I did have to loosen the bellhousing bolts to get to the top rear cover bolts off. I used a PVC fitting to instal the seal in the cover. I found it at lowes..it was exactly, and I mean a perfect match for the seal... even had a grove in it for the lip. I used the plastic packing wrapped 12 times with electrical tape to install it on the crank. It all went well but its a big PITA

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

Nice!

michael402z06

iTrader: (15)

i am trying to change myn right now. the engine is out and the rear cover is off and i can't seem to even get the old one out, i can imagine how it is going to be to get the new one in. do you guys have any pointers on how to get it out and back in.
thanks

MSGHUFF

iTrader: (7)

To get it out just flip the cover over lay it on two blocks of wood and tap it out with a punch or big screwdriver.

To install it go to lowes and pick up a 4"x3" PVC Flush bushing PN# on the UIC lable is 11942 space 03267 Its a perfect fit for your new seal even has a grove for the lip. Place the new seal on the PVC and lay it on the cover gently tap the new seal in place and keep an eye on it to make sure it is all the way on...


Use the plastic ring that came with the new seal and wrap it about 12 times with black electrical tape. cover it in oil and slide it into the seal. It will be a little difficult with the slippery oil and all but will fit! Then just line the cover up and push it on.

Now if you feel that it didnt go on perfect take it off and get a new seal and start over. I made the mistake of thinking "ah it will be OK" after installing one on my new engine using the "feeler guage/screwdriver method"..... I had to replace it less than a month later in my garage on jack stands...the whole time saying to myself "I knew it wasnt right" and kicking myself in the ***.

Good luck and PM me if you need any help!

michael402z06

iTrader: (15)

awesome, thanks for the help. also nice vids.

MSGHUFF

iTrader: (7)

Thanks what cam did you go with?

michael402z06

iTrader: (15)

same as yours. i will put a bigger one in it later maybe. but i wanted to keep it pretty drivable

MSGHUFF

iTrader: (7)

Please let me know how it turns out. I am pretty happy with the low end grunt this thing has! 450RWTQ @ 3700 is no joke, my tires hate me!!