Question about nitrous install on C-5
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park, FL
Question about nitrous install on C-5 I just recently got a bottle in a bag kit and it doesn't come with a actual nozzle that I am used too. It is a long thin probe I guess. I got the volant intake with the dual air filters and I was just wondering where would be the best place to insert this thing on that intake. I tried search key and could not get specific enough. Any help would be great.
Looks like a removable Dry system. Is the nozzle straight through or does it spray out the side (70 or 90 degree). You want it spray right at the MAF Wires.
The kit says it works with any EFI Engine, but seems more marketed towards Mustangs.
Compucar
Bottle in a Bag Kit
Nitrous in-a-bag (Pro Street Heat)
The Pro Street Heat was designed to be the simplest nitrous system on the market to use and install. This is a "dry system" injecting only nitrous into the motor. It works by "tricking" the computer back into the cold start mode. In cold start mode, the computer injects more fuel into the motor just like a carburetor does when the choke is on. Other sensors detect the oxygen rich air and adjust the fuel mixture and timing to compensate for this extra income of oxygen making this system near fool proof on performance. This kit comes with jetting from small, medium, large, extra large, and kickin ***. This will give you approximately 20 to 100 HP on your motor. Installation on this kit takes 10 minutes to complete and the kit can easily be place onto other vehicles in the same amount of time. This kit is designed to work on any EFI (fuel injected) vehicle.
Key Benefits:
This is a great beginner kit.
The design of this kit means no adjustments to the motor.
No one will know you have the kit on the car
Part Number: 690310
The kit says it works with any EFI Engine, but seems more marketed towards Mustangs.
Compucar
Bottle in a Bag Kit
Nitrous in-a-bag (Pro Street Heat)
The Pro Street Heat was designed to be the simplest nitrous system on the market to use and install. This is a "dry system" injecting only nitrous into the motor. It works by "tricking" the computer back into the cold start mode. In cold start mode, the computer injects more fuel into the motor just like a carburetor does when the choke is on. Other sensors detect the oxygen rich air and adjust the fuel mixture and timing to compensate for this extra income of oxygen making this system near fool proof on performance. This kit comes with jetting from small, medium, large, extra large, and kickin ***. This will give you approximately 20 to 100 HP on your motor. Installation on this kit takes 10 minutes to complete and the kit can easily be place onto other vehicles in the same amount of time. This kit is designed to work on any EFI (fuel injected) vehicle.
Key Benefits:
This is a great beginner kit.
The design of this kit means no adjustments to the motor.
No one will know you have the kit on the car
Part Number: 690310
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park, FL
Yeah it is a straight spray right out of the probe. I probably should just buy a nozzle for it. i was just wondering where at on the intake I need to put this. It is a dry kit. I need to get a bottle heater also.
Is the Roadhouse Inn still open in Orange Park? Used to play darts there regulary. Those were the days, Per Diem, VP-30 by day, drunken dart thrower by nite 
Any of the forum vendors can hook you up with dry a dry nozzle, they are about $20 plus the bung is needed too.
Assuming the nozzle is a -3AN? you will also need jets for the new Nozzle.
Any of the forum vendors can hook you up with dry a dry nozzle, they are about $20 plus the bung is needed too.
Assuming the nozzle is a -3AN? you will also need jets for the new Nozzle.
Originally Posted by wax
Yeah it is a straight spray right out of the probe. I probably should just buy a nozzle for it. i was just wondering where at on the intake I need to put this. It is a dry kit. I need to get a bottle heater also.
Robert
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I would not spray it right at the mass air. Sometimes the nitrous blows right by it and is not registered. I would spray it in a direction that it has to bounce around and mix with incoming air before the mass air.
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Originally Posted by GTFORMULA
I would not spray it right at the mass air. Sometimes the nitrous blows right by it and is not registered. I would spray it in a direction that it has to bounce around and mix with incoming air before the mass air.
The way you describe does work sort of. It will have a lean spike and the reading will be more diluted and thus a leaner a/f, unless going big shot.
Robert
I always do big shots. I was on a dyno 2 times with four different cars and when you use a large shot of nitrous which we always do it blows right threw the mass air. The mass air didnt even seem to pick up the spray. It would go instantly lean. Thats just my experience. Im not a pro so I would go with the companies recommedations.
Originally Posted by GTFORMULA
I always do big shots. I was on a dyno 2 times with four different cars and when you use a large shot of nitrous which we always do it blows right threw the mass air. The mass air didnt even seem to pick up the spray. It would go instantly lean. Thats just my experience. Im not a pro so I would go with the companies recommedations.
You need to index your nozzles so you know they spraying the pattern where you want it. Everytime I have seen a lean condition it's been nozzle location/postion and/or sytle errror. Maybe we can get ya fixed up?
I am upto 250rwhp dry shot and haven't blown passed the MAF on the entire journey, actually you'll find the oppisite in correctly placed nozzle(s), if your to rich (which is more common than lean) you can slightly rotate the nozzle to allow some of the spray to bypass the MAF wire and thus leaning it out. However, if the nozzle is too far away and a lean condition is present, which is the normal outcome, then going into the pcm is the only recourse.
Robert
2 NOS nozzles/ NOS kit modified / was jetted for 200 hp/ Repositioned nozzles and worked fine. Would spike lean for 200 rpm then evenout. Cars picked up as they should at the trackand are still alive and well after years of spraying . I personally always used wet shots on my personal cars. These are on friends cars. I also had a 175 wet and 175 dry combo on my 98 formula a couple years back made an extra 325 rwhp combined when the single dry NOS nozzle was within about 7 inches of the mass air and spraying directly on it. It would hit the mass air and lean right out having to stop the dyno pull. I repositioned the nossle in the filter spraying into the inlet tract of my Volant induction. It would spike lean for 200 rpm then even out. When I would hit both kits on the dyno the wet would spike rich and the dry would spike lean ,so when both were combined it was very good AFR and would make great power and torque. Again this is from what Ive done and what Ive seen work.
I would get others opinions and go to the dyno. Try different things on your car to see what works for you. What works on some cars doesnt work on some.
I would get others opinions and go to the dyno. Try different things on your car to see what works for you. What works on some cars doesnt work on some.
Originally Posted by GTFORMULA
2 NOS nozzles/ NOS kit modified / was jetted for 200 hp/ Repositioned nozzles and worked fine. Would spike lean for 200 rpm then evenout. Cars picked up as they should at the trackand are still alive and well after years of spraying . I personally always used wet shots on my personal cars. These are on friends cars. I also had a 175 wet and 175 dry combo on my 98 formula a couple years back made an extra 325 rwhp combined when the single dry NOS nozzle was within about 7 inches of the mass air and spraying directly on it. It would hit the mass air and lean right out having to stop the dyno pull. I repositioned the nossle in the filter spraying into the inlet tract of my Volant induction. It would spike lean for 200 rpm then even out. When I would hit both kits on the dyno the wet would spike rich and the dry would spike lean ,so when both were combined it was very good AFR and would make great power and torque. Again this is from what Ive done and what Ive seen work.
I would get others opinions and go to the dyno. Try different things on your car to see what works for you. What works on some cars doesnt work on some.
I would get others opinions and go to the dyno. Try different things on your car to see what works for you. What works on some cars doesnt work on some.
Robert
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park, FL
Some good info here, thanks for the responses. Only problem now is I am still not sure if I should use the provided probe thing from compucar. I guess the smart thing would be to by a nozzle from Robert and some an line. Robert if you know how the kit is on the compucar bottle in a bag kit. Just shoot me a pm on what I need to purchase from you. I guess the nozzle and a 125 jet and some an line. If not I can call you tommorrow if it is easier that way. Thanks