Electrical Issues HELP!!!!!
Electrical Issues HELP!!!!! I replaced the starter and connected all the wires (power, ground and signal wires) correctlyand even had a buddy that works on vettes come over and check the wires for me. He said everthing was connected properly/correctly so we bolt up the headers, put on the plugs, etc. We go to fire up the car and it fires up perfectly, volts were at 11.6-11.7 for a few seconds and then dropped to 11.5 and stayed there. I drove the car around and a little ways down the road, the voltage started to drop and dropped all the way down into the 8s. I get the car back home in the garage, disconnected the battery and checked to make sure the power wire was tight. I tightned the power wire b/c it was kinda loose and then I go to start the car again to see if the voltage goes up to 13.1 and it doesn't register any voltage at all. I hit the the unlock button on my keyless entry keypad and all of a sudden I get this humming noise coming from the fuse/relay box. Then the door locks started locking and unlocking themselves and my keyless entry keypad doesn't work. What is going on. I don't understand what is happening?
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: boostville
wow, thats weird. I don't have a whole lot of experience with the C5 electrical system except for the fact I know it has issues. Mine was doing some funky stuff when i first got it but relocating most of the grounds to one central location seems to have solved the problems.
Did you try the obvious thing of pulling the NEG battery cable and resetting the ECU? There are capacitors in the ECU so after you pull th NEG cable you should put the key in the ignition and turn it to start for 10-15 sec to drain the capacitors. Also check all your ground connections and make sure they aren't corroided.
Did you try the obvious thing of pulling the NEG battery cable and resetting the ECU? There are capacitors in the ECU so after you pull th NEG cable you should put the key in the ignition and turn it to start for 10-15 sec to drain the capacitors. Also check all your ground connections and make sure they aren't corroided.
I would say to take off the alternator and take to a autoparts store that can test it for you. Sounds like the alt. is bad and is running the car off of the battery, meaning it is just draining the battery power. The reason everything is going nuts is, there is not enough voltage to run the pcm and all the sensors at one time. Charge your battery back up also.
Originally Posted by scramblerman
I would say to take off the alternator and take to a autoparts store that can test it for you. Sounds like the alt. is bad and is running the car off of the battery, meaning it is just draining the battery power. The reason everything is going nuts is, there is not enough voltage to run the pcm and all the sensors at one time. Charge your battery back up also.
Let me see if I have this correct. There is one signal wire, 2 ground wires and 1 power wire correct? Or is there 3 ground wires, 1 power wire and 1 signal wire?
Originally Posted by c5_ls1_6spd
... as well as a new battery last week.
Originally Posted by c5_ls1_6spd
alternator is brand new, i just put it on the car a week ago as well as a new battery last week. Do you think I could have had a loose ground on the starter which caused the battery to drain?
Let me see if I have this correct. There is one signal wire, 2 ground wires and 1 power wire correct? Or is there 3 ground wires, 1 power wire and 1 signal wire?
Let me see if I have this correct. There is one signal wire, 2 ground wires and 1 power wire correct? Or is there 3 ground wires, 1 power wire and 1 signal wire?
I highly doubt that a loose wire on the starter caused the battery to drain. After you charge the battery back up, check and see what the voltage is. Drive the car again, watch the voltage guage. If the alternator works that gauge should read close to 13 volts, no matter if the a/c, radio, blower motor is on. If you do this and the voltage doesn't go back up, you need a new alternator. I know you say it is new, but that doesn't mean that it is any good. Also check the connections behind the alternator. One hot red wire and a plug with two wires if memory serves me correct.
Trending Topics
I had a bunch of crazy stuff happen when I connected the positive cable to the battery after the negative....
I undid the negative and waited a minute and connected it back up and everything was fine.
Has to do with the way the capacters and computer gets charged I was told...
That being said it took me 9 months and replacing alot of good time, parts and frustration to diagnose a bad traction control and power braking module..
Damn electrical gremlins...good luck
I undid the negative and waited a minute and connected it back up and everything was fine.
Has to do with the way the capacters and computer gets charged I was told...
That being said it took me 9 months and replacing alot of good time, parts and frustration to diagnose a bad traction control and power braking module..
Damn electrical gremlins...good luck
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by dmiz0420
I had a bunch of crazy stuff happen when I connected the positive cable to the battery after the negative....
I undid the negative and waited a minute and connected it back up and everything was fine.
Has to do with the way the capacters and computer gets charged I was told...
That being said it took me 9 months and replacing alot of good time, parts and frustration to diagnose a bad traction control and power braking module..
Damn electrical gremlins...good luck
I undid the negative and waited a minute and connected it back up and everything was fine.
Has to do with the way the capacters and computer gets charged I was told...
That being said it took me 9 months and replacing alot of good time, parts and frustration to diagnose a bad traction control and power braking module..
Damn electrical gremlins...good luck
Can you tell me more of what it was doing and how you found out it was the tcs and power braking module? I have been trying to find my problem for over a year w/ no luck. All of a sudden my tcs, abs, and tach all quit working. Now my tach will sweep with the 1st key on and then nothing when the car starts, also as soon as it starts I get a service traction system and abs inop lights and readings on the dash.
Its killing me, its been to 2 different shops w/ no luck.
