m6 drag radial 60 ft
#1
m6 drag radial 60 ft
need to figure out what i'm doing wrong. my 60ft and 1/8 sucks. best i have done is a 1.94 with a 1/8 mile result of 7.65 at 98 mph. should have 500+ hp at the wheels. running 295/55/15 MT et street radials with a 3.50 rearend. need short list on rear shock settings (koni DAs), air pressure (15.5 cold), launch rpm, timing(?) etc. doesn't seem to be spinning much but don't have any video to confirm. does seem like it bogs at launch so does that mean i need to launch at a higher rpm? i've tried various rpms but usually end up around a 2.0 60ft. installing a 2 step this week to see if that helps. with that mph i figured i should be able to get in the low 7s with a 1.6 ish 60.
HEELLLPP!
HEELLLPP!
#3
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slipping or dumping the clutch? i mean i havnt had great success with awesome 60's but ive been getting some decent 1.70's by slipping the clutch instead of just dumping. i have the msd 2 step and that does make it easier! just hold it to the floor and concentrate on the clutch plus the boost off the line doesnt hurt either . at 98 you should def be in the low 7's.. but its all in the launch. i just ran a 6.92 @ 106 on a 1.733 60'
#7
TECH Fanatic
Are you dead set on running a radial, bias ply much easier to get good 60fts with on a manual car. I think where your instant center is at will hurt you alot if your hitting the radial to hard on the launch. My car hits the tire very hard on the launch, only thing i have found to get half decent 60's on the radial was to lower pressure down to 12 which i did not like.
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#8
i purchased radials because i didn't do enough research ahead of time!!! i thought it would be nice to drive the 20 miles to the track with the radials on and not have to bring drag slicks and a jack along and change at the track, as well as buying front bias tires also. so when the MT radials are shot i'll move to a slick. oh well.
i see tho that you ran 1.56. wow. that's what i don't get. i probably have a bit more HP than you (and weight) yet not even close on the time. can't figure it out.
***edit*** btw, what was your 1/8 et and mph in that run?
i see tho that you ran 1.56. wow. that's what i don't get. i probably have a bit more HP than you (and weight) yet not even close on the time. can't figure it out.
***edit*** btw, what was your 1/8 et and mph in that run?
#11
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With my M6 DR car I have always found that slipping the clutch works much better. Just dumping the clutch on a DR is going to result in spinning most of the time.
But, aside from tire pressure and the method in which you release the clutch your suspension setup is also going to come into play.
But, aside from tire pressure and the method in which you release the clutch your suspension setup is also going to come into play.
#12
TECH Fanatic
i purchased radials because i didn't do enough research ahead of time!!! i thought it would be nice to drive the 20 miles to the track with the radials on and not have to bring drag slicks and a jack along and change at the track, as well as buying front bias tires also. so when the MT radials are shot i'll move to a slick. oh well.
i see tho that you ran 1.56. wow. that's what i don't get. i probably have a bit more HP than you (and weight) yet not even close on the time. can't figure it out.
***edit*** btw, what was your 1/8 et and mph in that run?
i see tho that you ran 1.56. wow. that's what i don't get. i probably have a bit more HP than you (and weight) yet not even close on the time. can't figure it out.
***edit*** btw, what was your 1/8 et and mph in that run?
I run a et street bias ply which is dot that you can run if you choose so you don't have to change to a full slick, but have heard that the hoosier dot bias plys are better. I also run the bias ply sportsmans on the front that are dot.
I understand where your coming from man, i had to learn some here and there from trying stuff and looking at what other people did. The weight at that time was a little over 3200 raceweight when i cut that 1.56 but i have cut a 1.54 on two or three separate ocassions.
1/8th was 7.2966 at 93.26 mph and 11.4706 at 117.74 but thats my best run ever. It took alot of trips to the track, tuning, learning and such to get to that point.
You still can get those radials to work better for ya. Its just a little easier to me to run a dot bias ply.
#13
With my M6 DR car I have always found that slipping the clutch works much better. Just dumping the clutch on a DR is going to result in spinning most of the time.
But, aside from tire pressure and the method in which you release the clutch your suspension setup is also going to come into play.
But, aside from tire pressure and the method in which you release the clutch your suspension setup is also going to come into play.
ya - i failed to turn the compression rate on my da's way up to limit compression so that should help next time. also will try slipping clutch.
#14
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
Slip clutch, its more of a 2 stage release. Release until the engage point, then release fully. Tire psi was ~20. From shocks are full soft, rears are a couple of clicks tighter lol. The 295/50/16 is a pretty big tire so that helps. I also dont have my gas pedal on the floor either, just enough to sit on the 2 step, which also helps the car hook. Start with the 2 step at 3200ish rpms and work your way up until you stop hooking assuming you have a decent tire.