First passes since upgrades
12-31-2014, 09:19 PM
#46
On The Tree
Lots of ideas in here, the car is obviously a bit more heavy than a hard top car, but it makes power, has gear and a decent convertor.
Did anybody ask about DA? Maybe he didn't have any air.
Also. I don't see a mention of a ram air solution, and on a car with this much air flow, I'd see that a SSRA/FTRA or SUX2BU style be very important.
But I do agree. That's an awful lot of work and even a LQ9 swap, the power seems a touch low considering that, but even at the power level documented, it seems like it should be faster.
From what I've seen, everyone who improves their 60ft also improves their mph. So, thst being said, get that down a 1.6x and you should pick up a few mph just there.
- Drew
Did anybody ask about DA? Maybe he didn't have any air.
Also. I don't see a mention of a ram air solution, and on a car with this much air flow, I'd see that a SSRA/FTRA or SUX2BU style be very important.
But I do agree. That's an awful lot of work and even a LQ9 swap, the power seems a touch low considering that, but even at the power level documented, it seems like it should be faster.
From what I've seen, everyone who improves their 60ft also improves their mph. So, thst being said, get that down a 1.6x and you should pick up a few mph just there.
- Drew
01-01-2015, 05:16 PM
#48
Lots of ideas in here, the car is obviously a bit more heavy than a hard top car, but it makes power, has gear and a decent convertor.
Did anybody ask about DA? Maybe he didn't have any air.
Also. I don't see a mention of a ram air solution, and on a car with this much air flow, I'd see that a SSRA/FTRA or SUX2BU style be very important.
But I do agree. That's an awful lot of work and even a LQ9 swap, the power seems a touch low considering that, but even at the power level documented, it seems like it should be faster.
From what I've seen, everyone who improves their 60ft also improves their mph. So, thst being said, get that down a 1.6x and you should pick up a few mph just there.
- Drew
Did anybody ask about DA? Maybe he didn't have any air.
Also. I don't see a mention of a ram air solution, and on a car with this much air flow, I'd see that a SSRA/FTRA or SUX2BU style be very important.
But I do agree. That's an awful lot of work and even a LQ9 swap, the power seems a touch low considering that, but even at the power level documented, it seems like it should be faster.
From what I've seen, everyone who improves their 60ft also improves their mph. So, thst being said, get that down a 1.6x and you should pick up a few mph just there.
- Drew
01-02-2015, 05:43 PM
#49
Marty,
Something I think we also should look at here. The cam you're using was designed for a much lighter car that was possibly going to be using nitrous from 100-200hp IIRC.
The added exhaust duration that a lighter car would utilize isn't always best for a big heavy 4000 pound car like you have. It would love nitrous with your stall converter being as tight as it is though. That said, do you want to have to deal with even more stuff to haul around? I know we've talked at length about your wreck and as I've said, the good Lord had other plans for you my friend! I know it's tough for you to get around, and adding 1-2 10lb. bottles and having to worry about changing jets and such might not be the best idea. That's up to you to decide what you can handle though, and I know you can handle a lot!
If you're after quicker E.T. on motor I feel like the converter is the first thing that should be looked at. If it's pushing through at 2100, that needs to be at least 3000-3200rpm if not 3300-3400rpm before it pushes through. That will also help with shift extension as well and keep it in its power band better down track. Improving E.T. and helping MPH.
Something like a 231/235, or even a 229/233 might be the way we need to go to improve your E.T. on motor as best as possible with the weight you have to carry around.
Let me know what you think.
Something I think we also should look at here. The cam you're using was designed for a much lighter car that was possibly going to be using nitrous from 100-200hp IIRC.
The added exhaust duration that a lighter car would utilize isn't always best for a big heavy 4000 pound car like you have. It would love nitrous with your stall converter being as tight as it is though. That said, do you want to have to deal with even more stuff to haul around? I know we've talked at length about your wreck and as I've said, the good Lord had other plans for you my friend! I know it's tough for you to get around, and adding 1-2 10lb. bottles and having to worry about changing jets and such might not be the best idea. That's up to you to decide what you can handle though, and I know you can handle a lot!
If you're after quicker E.T. on motor I feel like the converter is the first thing that should be looked at. If it's pushing through at 2100, that needs to be at least 3000-3200rpm if not 3300-3400rpm before it pushes through. That will also help with shift extension as well and keep it in its power band better down track. Improving E.T. and helping MPH.
Something like a 231/235, or even a 229/233 might be the way we need to go to improve your E.T. on motor as best as possible with the weight you have to carry around.
Let me know what you think.
01-02-2015, 11:18 PM
#50
Marty,
Something I think we also should look at here. The cam you're using was designed for a much lighter car that was possibly going to be using nitrous from 100-200hp IIRC.
The added exhaust duration that a lighter car would utilize isn't always best for a big heavy 4000 pound car like you have. It would love nitrous with your stall converter being as tight as it is though. That said, do you want to have to deal with even more stuff to haul around? I know we've talked at length about your wreck and as I've said, the good Lord had other plans for you my friend! I know it's tough for you to get around, and adding 1-2 10lb. bottles and having to worry about changing jets and such might not be the best idea. That's up to you to decide what you can handle though, and I know you can handle a lot!
If you're after quicker E.T. on motor I feel like the converter is the first thing that should be looked at. If it's pushing through at 2100, that needs to be at least 3000-3200rpm if not 3300-3400rpm before it pushes through. That will also help with shift extension as well and keep it in its power band better down track. Improving E.T. and helping MPH.
Something like a 231/235, or even a 229/233 might be the way we need to go to improve your E.T. on motor as best as possible with the weight you have to carry around.
Let me know what you think.
Something I think we also should look at here. The cam you're using was designed for a much lighter car that was possibly going to be using nitrous from 100-200hp IIRC.
The added exhaust duration that a lighter car would utilize isn't always best for a big heavy 4000 pound car like you have. It would love nitrous with your stall converter being as tight as it is though. That said, do you want to have to deal with even more stuff to haul around? I know we've talked at length about your wreck and as I've said, the good Lord had other plans for you my friend! I know it's tough for you to get around, and adding 1-2 10lb. bottles and having to worry about changing jets and such might not be the best idea. That's up to you to decide what you can handle though, and I know you can handle a lot!
If you're after quicker E.T. on motor I feel like the converter is the first thing that should be looked at. If it's pushing through at 2100, that needs to be at least 3000-3200rpm if not 3300-3400rpm before it pushes through. That will also help with shift extension as well and keep it in its power band better down track. Improving E.T. and helping MPH.
Something like a 231/235, or even a 229/233 might be the way we need to go to improve your E.T. on motor as best as possible with the weight you have to carry around.
Let me know what you think.
I'm gonna see what we can do with the easier things first. Lose a little weight off the car, and maybe off my fat butt. Work on the suspension a hair, then if I'm not happy with the way it performs on motor maybe restall it. Like I said though it runs good on the street and 90% of the racing I do is on the street from a dig. If I can't get the car where I want it at that point I'll look into a different camshaft, and You will definitely be involved with that. As far as hauling bottles around it's no big deal, I think the extra 20 lbs or so could be removed off the front of the car real easily by moving the battery to the trunk and removing the inner structure from the bumper. I'm also going to scale the car and make sure my weight est is correct because I have changed a lot on the car already. Hopefully I'll have the intake on and have the car retuned next week. Again Martin thanks for taking the time to talk with me!
01-14-2015, 01:29 PM
#53
Just wanted to give a quick update. I followed Martin and others idea about raising the shift points. I raised them to 6750 from 6450. Also I installed a fast 102/nw 102 and ftp 104 lid. All I can say is wow! On the street it's a freaking animal now. Thanks to Ruben Mata at Volatile for all the data logging and SD tuning as well, wow what a difference. Hopefully I'll get some updated track times in the coming months.