Cam only 5.3 runs 11.28 @119.33 (278k bone stock 4.8 swapped out, best of 12.45 @109)
#1
Cam only 5.3 runs 11.28 @119.33 (278k bone stock 4.8 swapped out, best of 12.45 @109)
Hey guys, haven't posted on here in forever but thought I'd throw this out there because I haven't seen too many people see what they can get out of a truck motor without at least throwing a cam at it (probably because they have more money than me ) but anyways I bought an 86 mustang notch back in September with a buddy of mine, stripped it down to 2700lbs with me in it, caged it, threw the team z cross member in it, bought a 278k mile 01 4.8 (painted it ford racing blue for extra butthurt) and th400 for $500 total, weld draglites skinnies up front and 28x9.5 slicks in back brand new (all 4 wheels and tires less than $200 with no passes on them!) spooled 4.11 ford 8.8 out back and that's about it, total coat of build including car is under $4k. First day out it ran a 13.1 at 107.2 and atrocious 2.1 60' With the stock box truck converter the th400 came with, then decided to put a 3800 stall 10" converter in it the day before the next track day, took it out and she was running back to back to back 12.59s at between 106.4 and 107.8 with 1.75 60's, best pass of the day was a 12.56 at 107.48 with a 1.7267 60' on the footbrake. I have an all aluminum gen 4 5.3 ready to go in next but this little 4.8 has a little more in it so I'm getting a valvebody for the th400 and possibly the lingenfelter launch control from a buddy to officially make this the stupidest most underachieving looking but really over achieving old 4.8 on the planet. Does anyone know if anyone has beaten that time with a bone stock 4.8? not that it'd be a very impressive record to hold but it definitely went faster than I was expecting. I will upload pics of the set up and time slips once I remember how to use a forum again haha.
Last edited by Rayzor Rigzz; 08-28-2017 at 04:23 PM. Reason: incorrect data
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Squeezer (12-14-2019)
#4
12 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
nice job , keep pushing that 4.8 till it gives up the ghost - spray the bitch !
weird you were able to race with shorts you couldn't do that with a 20 sec car at my track no shorts and if you have a hole in the knee of your pants you will get out the duct tape or you will not be racing... yet no fire jacket needed on any 12 sec cars.
weird you were able to race with shorts you couldn't do that with a 20 sec car at my track no shorts and if you have a hole in the knee of your pants you will get out the duct tape or you will not be racing... yet no fire jacket needed on any 12 sec cars.
#5
nice job , keep pushing that 4.8 till it gives up the ghost - spray the bitch !
weird you were able to race with shorts you couldn't do that with a 20 sec car at my track no shorts and if you have a hole in the knee of your pants you will get out the duct tape or you will not be racing... yet no fire jacket needed on any 12 sec cars.
weird you were able to race with shorts you couldn't do that with a 20 sec car at my track no shorts and if you have a hole in the knee of your pants you will get out the duct tape or you will not be racing... yet no fire jacket needed on any 12 sec cars.
#6
#7
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Hell at that raceweight i bet you can touch the 11s with the right combo of bolt ons. You for sure don't need a 28" slick to hook that thing, they are slowing you down.
What's the rest of your bolt ons?
What's the rest of your bolt ons?
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#9
yea, the slicks are really only on the car because they were $60 for the pair from a buddy and brand new. Plus the motor is getting ditched for the aluminum block I'm building soon so hopefully they'll have some purpose then. As for bolt ons, the motor is 100% untouched, and the transmission was an untouched th400 until it got a 3800 stall last weekend and the transgo 400-3 shift kit tonight. Rear end is a spooled 8.8 with 4.11s or 4.10s I always get it mixed up. Even the tune on the motor has been the factory one. Only real mods have just been taking away weight. This weekend the new mods to the car are the transgo 400-3 all manual shift kit, and I just put the o2 bungs in for wideband so we can tune on 100 octane and hopefully get a little more out of it. Racing my buddies $35K gt500 this Friday that ran a 12.42 best. It'd be pretty funny to beat him with a car that came in under $4K total cost
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Squeezer (12-14-2019)
#10
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
100 octane ain't gonna help that motor. E85 would tho. Do you have headers? Electric water pump? I assume you did some tuning just to turn off some dtc's. You coukd port that truck intake opening a bit. It's 4mm smaller than the tb opening.
I have a friend putting a lq9 in a fairmont. Those cars are stupid light to.
I have a friend putting a lq9 in a fairmont. Those cars are stupid light to.
#11
100 octane ain't gonna help that motor. E85 would tho. Do you have headers? Electric water pump? I assume you did some tuning just to turn off some dtc's. You coukd port that truck intake opening a bit. It's 4mm smaller than the tb opening.
I have a friend putting a lq9 in a fairmont. Those cars are stupid light to.
I have a friend putting a lq9 in a fairmont. Those cars are stupid light to.
And that Fairmont will move!! I put an lq4 in an 82 regal wagon and got that thing to 13.4 on old street tires and a tranny that was on its last leg. I can only imagine an lq9 in a car that's probably close to a thousand pounds lighter!
#12
#3178
So we gained a tenth on a pretty hot day, lost a little in the 60 but better everywhere else so there's probably still a little bit more on the table if I can get that 60 back down, not much but a little. The shift kit is awesome, best $80 I've spent on the thing, nice aggressive shifts, and above all else, it gives me more to do and more control going down the track which I like. Eventually it will be getting a valvebody and a transbrake but until then $80 and a few hours, this was worth it to me. hopefully going to tune the thing this week and see what its got next Friday but once that's said and done I think it'll be about time to put the gen 4 aluminum 5.3 to go in its place. can't wait to see what that thing can do with a cam... still have to pick one out, so if anyone has any suggestions for an all motor 5.3 with 799 heads and 9.9:1 compression I'm all ears, the car is strip only and I plan on boosting it this off season so it'd be nice to find a cam that just slides in with factory pushrods/rocker arms.
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Squeezer (12-14-2019)
#13
Decided to throw the aluminum 5.3 in last week along with the Jegs 200582 cam. After a few data logs at the track and a fairly safe tune it went 11.5 @ 115 spinning through first and part of second. haven't weighed it with the aluminum motor yet but hopefully will this week. with the iron block it was 2550 without me on a full tank. This motor woke this car right up, only got 3 passes that night trying to get a feel for the new set up, once I get it to hook it's gonna be damn close to 10s.
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Squeezer (12-14-2019)
#16
Definitely thought about it but she is completely out of gear coming through the beams at about 6750rpm in 3rd and I was gonna spray it this year but with the off season right around the corner I might as well wait to build the turbo set up since I put the "turbo" cam in it and all anticipating the turbo next year.
#17
(3178) New best yesterday adding a bit more timing and even starting to push the front tires on the foot brake it still managed to put down a 1.60 60' pulling the wheels off the ground! there's still more left for sure maybe a little more timing even... Part of me still thinks its got a 10.99 in it. Biggest problem is the car really wants a higher launch but all I have is the foot brake right now. its getting all the goods (transbrake, 2 step, etc.) next year but does anyone have any suggestions on a cheap easy temporary fix? I was thinking maybe an adjustable proportioning valve to put more power to the rear brakes but I've never used one of those for this purpose so I'm not sure if it'd really do anything. Not too bad with a 5.3 with only a cam and valve springs though!
Last edited by Rayzor Rigzz; 08-26-2017 at 09:46 AM.
#19
I'm hoping so! fuel is perfect even with injectors running at 115% duty cycle and I only got 3 passes in until someone oiled the track for good, upping timing each pass and gaining almost a whole tenth for every degree. sitting at 29 degrees right now with no sign of knock yet on 93 pump gas. The pass I have in the picture actually felt like a terrible pass to me because it started to push through the tires and I kind of fumbled to fix it on the line so I was shocked to see that good of a pass and 60' with all that drama. I think as it sits I may be able to get close to a 11.1 out of it and it definitely has a 1.5 60' in it. I talked to some guy at the track with his N/A LS that was dyno tuned on pump gas and he found peak torque at 31 degrees so maybe there's a little more to be had in that aspect as well. I just wish I had a quick way to launch this thing at a higher RPM, it seems to like it as high as you can get it, I've played around with leaving at an idle and flashing the converter but the car seems to be so light that it doesn't stall high enough unless you really help it with the foot brake even though its supposed to be a 3600-3800 stall converter (cheap jegs 10" converter mind you) it still wants to push through the beams about anywhere north of 2,000 RPM's. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears, I've always been a 3 pedal car guy until I got into drag racing and deciding to build this thing so I'm still pretty new on launching these from the foot brake. Either way, couldn't be happier with this thing at this point regardless if its in the 10s before the years up or not... the turbo and e85 set up coming next year should make those 10s pretty easy though
#20
That's pretty good for what you have done to it. It sounds like your converter is too tight for that set up. If you are pushing through the light at or above 2,000 rpm's then the converter is not stalling at the rated 3600-3800. I have read on here where some guys have had to go to a higher stall due to the engine combination. Torque of the engine is what stalls the converter basically and with a light car the converter will not stall at it's rated number. What did it stall to when flashing the converter from an idle? That will tell you instantly you are not getting all the stall from your converter.
It sounds though your are planning to go forced induction so the converter you have may work better with that set up.
It sounds though your are planning to go forced induction so the converter you have may work better with that set up.