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thanks. There is more in it I know it. I think I can get to 10s at the other track which is about 3500 DA and some more shock tuning. Then Ill spray 150 for the whole pass and see what happens.
Odd to me that 28s helped unless you had all kinds of wheel spin you didn't know about.
it was overpowering the sidewall and unloading the tire. I'm sure spending loads of time fine tuning shocks would've cured the issue but the reasoning for 28s are: they will be more forgiving, wrinkle more and store more energy, lower overall gearing for nitrous and they fill the wheel well much more so I don't look like a lifted truck. Also these hoosiers are way more sticky then the MT street Rs.
Congrats on finally getting that thing somewhat figured out.
Originally Posted by Bspeck82
Update: put a 28 hoosier bracket radial on the car and made no other changes. Took it to the track at 5700 DA and it ran a 12.0. I turned the front shocks down to 15c 0R and rears to 12C 14R and it turned into a whole new car. Cut a 1.59 60 and ran an 11.3 @ 119 mph. Still more in it before I hit the bottle.
I feel like I'm having this same "physics" problem with my car since I was forced to change my setup, bspeck82 If you could, would you elaborate on your changes to the shock settings ( softer harder ect.) and how they helped the car transition off the line better?
I replaced my aluminum block with iron one like yours albeit a more powerful higher revving engine and so swapped from 3.73 to 4.10 ( still on 26" Hoosier's and 3800 ish stall) however I also did the heater hose mod while I had the car apart because I wanted to keep the stance somewhat level and it unfortunately went from low 1.6 to now mid 1.7 60ft times though the ET and mph still improved due to the added power and RPM
I did notice the drivers side tire rubbed the inner fender after a few hits and driving around aggressively where it sticks out above the control arm. I clearanced it with a BFH and covered it with fresh paint so I would see if it rubbed again. It doesn't rub anymore but the 60 still sucks so I'm going to put the coil spring isolators back on and see if my 60ft launch comes back though I still feel like there is something else going on that is keeping the car from leaving right?
Yes so at the time what helped was stiffening up my rebound on the rear. And it still wasn't perfect only cutting a 1.59. From the video, the car launches and hooks then started spinning 30 ft out. So I clearly had some work to do. But here were my findings:
I measured the rear shock installed height and found it to be 17.5 inches. Viking recommends setting the height at 15.5-16.5" for optimal effective stroke. Being at 17.5 I had little extension available to me since the shock would bottom at 19.22". So I had two choices, shock extensions or lower the car.
So what I did was lower the car because with the quick performance 9", the car had a dump truck rake to it from the rear. I went back and forth with viking and QP on this to find out why it was like this but ultimately no one figured it out, and everything is installed correctly so whatever, make it work. I lowered the car 1.25" in the rear giving me more available shock extension by the same amount. I used bmr lowering springs. I then removed the long torque arm and added a mwc short arm, replaced the rear poly parts with all rod end parts.
I will be doing an alignment today and take it to the track probably tomorrow to see what happens. I feel that this car was lazy on launch then unloaded tires 30ft out causing a lousy overall et.
I want to have this car hook harder and keep the tires down so with my newfound knowledge of the combo I have an idea of what I will do...
My tracks have mediocre radial prep and 3500-5500 DA
Rear shock settings:
I'm going to start with firm compression and rebound. Likely 12 compression and 10 rebound to start and see how it reacts. I want slow controlled transfer of weight, not making much power so it should hook
Front shocks:
again I want a slow controlled transfer of weight so I'll start with 15 compression up front and 6 rebound.
If I transfer too fast it will also unload too fast. The worse the prep the faster transfer needs to be from my understanding.
I need just enough to hook, then keep it there and stable all the way through.
Thanks so much for the generous and beyond punctual response. Guys like you are invaluable to the hobby. I'll try and absorb what you have shared and hopefully apply it to my own issue so I can get my own setup performing like it should. Beautiful car you have.
Good luck with your own testing we look forward to hearing what happens with the changes your making
11-14-2021, 12:38 PM
