t-rex cam swap from tr224 results.
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t-rex cam swap from tr224 results.
well i went out and played at test and tune tuesday, i did get a new best on motor but really wasn't that impressed with the results from the cam change. my lack of shifting skill and shitty 60fts would probably make a difference lol. (need that almighty driver mod) car weighs 3510 with me in it................
new best motor pass with 242/248-110 cam (15psi in slicks and 5600rpm dump)
r/t--- .010
60ft- 1.773
330- 5.072
1/8-- 7.778
mph- 91.43
1000- 10.094
1/4--- 12.054
mph-- 115.08
best motor pass with 224/224-112 cam
r/t--- .102
60ft- 1.767
330- 5.090
1/8-- 7.824
mph- 90.62
1000- 10.166
1/4--- 12.149
mph-- 113.43
seems to me that the t-rex cam should mph higher, than my old 224.
hopefully with alittle more playing with the psi in the slicks and hooking better i can get some 11.5's to 11.6's on motor. comments and advice welcomed. a/f was locked in at 12.8 during the runs and timing was 28.5. i have the runs logged with hptuner and a wideband.
new best motor pass with 242/248-110 cam (15psi in slicks and 5600rpm dump)
r/t--- .010
60ft- 1.773
330- 5.072
1/8-- 7.778
mph- 91.43
1000- 10.094
1/4--- 12.054
mph-- 115.08
best motor pass with 224/224-112 cam
r/t--- .102
60ft- 1.767
330- 5.090
1/8-- 7.824
mph- 90.62
1000- 10.166
1/4--- 12.149
mph-- 113.43
seems to me that the t-rex cam should mph higher, than my old 224.
hopefully with alittle more playing with the psi in the slicks and hooking better i can get some 11.5's to 11.6's on motor. comments and advice welcomed. a/f was locked in at 12.8 during the runs and timing was 28.5. i have the runs logged with hptuner and a wideband.
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Just goes to show you bigger isn't always better. I've seen small cammed cars run just as good as the cars with the big cams. You should be happy however because you picked up 1 tenth and 1mph 1/8th mile and 1 tenth and 2 mph in the 1/4 without a tune for that cam.
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I like being conservative with cam selections. I'd rather have a car that idles well, pull vacuum and doesn't sound like it's trying to stay alive - just to pick up 1-2 mph and a tenth or two. My 2000 MTI H/C Z28 went a (1.79 60 ft.)11.92 @ 120.X (3,520 lb) on 245/5 /16 Nitto DR with a 224/224 .561" 112 cam. Idled great and got 28 mpg on the freeway.
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Originally Posted by s346k
what rpm where you shifting? was the car retuned for the trex? are you comparing apples to apples weatherwise? was the car dynoed before / after each cam?
Without a tune I was trapping 118 at the same RW with the same cam. Tuned now and feels like a different car.
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Originally Posted by s346k
what rpm where you shifting? was the car retuned for the trex? are you comparing apples to apples weatherwise? was the car dynoed before / after each cam?
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Originally Posted by LEO
I like being conservative with cam selections. I'd rather have a car that idles well, pull vacuum and doesn't sound like it's trying to stay alive - just to pick up 1-2 mph and a tenth or two. My 2000 MTI H/C Z28 went a (1.79 60 ft.)11.92 @ 120.X (3,520 lb) on 245/5 /16 Nitto DR with a 224/224 .561" 112 cam. Idled great and got 28 mpg on the freeway.
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as far as mods i'll throw them out there cause i know thats part of knowing what to do next.
347 forged motor=stock crank, 6.125 eagle h-beam rods, and diamond flat top nitrous pistons.
heads are stock with patriot double springs
242/248-110 .610/.615 lift comp cam
1 3/4 hooker headers and y-pipe with a bullet turned down
stock 98 m6 tranny with a spec 5 clutch and steel flywheel
ford 9 inch with 4.30 gears and 35 spline axles with a spool
ls6 intake and ported throttle body
60 lb motoron injectors with dual 255 intank pumps
clear lid, smooh bellow
bone stock suspension and torque arm
on a 100 shot dry i did get a 11.104 with a 1.677 60ft as with my old setup i went 10.89 with a 150 dry shot, so i know there is improvement with this setup. just need to tweak at it.
i did notice with this cam and logging that i was leaving the line at around 5500-5600 and after dumping the clutch the rpms still dropped to around 3600-3700rpm. i think i will try leaving at around 6800rpm to see if that helps any. guys keep the comments and advice coming cause i sure would like to get in the 11's on motor then hit this thing with my 2 stage dry.
347 forged motor=stock crank, 6.125 eagle h-beam rods, and diamond flat top nitrous pistons.
heads are stock with patriot double springs
242/248-110 .610/.615 lift comp cam
1 3/4 hooker headers and y-pipe with a bullet turned down
stock 98 m6 tranny with a spec 5 clutch and steel flywheel
ford 9 inch with 4.30 gears and 35 spline axles with a spool
ls6 intake and ported throttle body
60 lb motoron injectors with dual 255 intank pumps
clear lid, smooh bellow
bone stock suspension and torque arm
on a 100 shot dry i did get a 11.104 with a 1.677 60ft as with my old setup i went 10.89 with a 150 dry shot, so i know there is improvement with this setup. just need to tweak at it.
i did notice with this cam and logging that i was leaving the line at around 5500-5600 and after dumping the clutch the rpms still dropped to around 3600-3700rpm. i think i will try leaving at around 6800rpm to see if that helps any. guys keep the comments and advice coming cause i sure would like to get in the 11's on motor then hit this thing with my 2 stage dry.
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Originally Posted by BADSZ28
Don't even go back to the track without LCAs and TA. You are killing the hole shot with the stock parts. If something breaks more bad **** will happen.
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Originally Posted by gettinthere
Go check out Jaberwaki. He ran an 11.50 at 115.