WTB: Traction!
Shift light helped me.
Bottom end can hold up pretty well. Just make sure the tune is good up to those RPMs on the hit. You want to be in the high 12s with no more than 27*.
Bottom end can hold up pretty well. Just make sure the tune is good up to those RPMs on the hit. You want to be in the high 12s with no more than 27*.
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
Yeah I'm going to go back since I think when we tuned we only went to 6200 or 6500 rpms
but i think that 6500 is where my rev limiter is set at? i gotta check...where should it be at? Remember, this is more of a street car, so I want it safe, I only go to the track a couple times a year
I know my tune is for 28* right now
but i think that 6500 is where my rev limiter is set at? i gotta check...where should it be at? Remember, this is more of a street car, so I want it safe, I only go to the track a couple times a year
I know my tune is for 28* right now
Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
oh yeah, why not past 6400-6500?
Well I run two tunes. One for N/A and one for juice. But the limiter is the same for both. 7200. Hardly ever rev it that high but it is away from my shift points so I know I will not hit it on a pass and not too high to blow up the motor. I hope you are running a window switch on the jug. Never want to hit the limiter on spray no matter what RPM you are at. If you are running a MAF, you do not need anymore tuning past 6500. The MAF will take care of it and the PE table should be fine. I would throw a couple more degrees at it for NA. My car took 31* like a champ but we pulled it back to 29 since we did not make any more power. But I think I have float so it would not help anyhow. The tuning we are speaking of is un related to streetability. We are talking about WOT. WOT on the street or track is the same. As long as your AFR is safe and you have no KR, you are good to go. I do not really understand street tunes and track tunes. As long as the mentioned criteria are met, the car will run great all the time. I guess some people in warmer climates tend to run less timing and more fuel to make it safer for daily driving but that is all I could see being a "street tune".
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
yeah i have a window switch, FPSS, every possible saftey measure in place. I probably wont spray until next year. I think my setup looks ugly lol so I'm going to rewire
So can everyone agree that its my shifting that is due to my times? I mean, it was my first time out, and I'm not used to launching...I more or less just dropped the clutch--let it out very quickly
What should my car do with this setup? (no nitrous, and assuming i get my driving down)
So can everyone agree that its my shifting that is due to my times? I mean, it was my first time out, and I'm not used to launching...I more or less just dropped the clutch--let it out very quickly
What should my car do with this setup? (no nitrous, and assuming i get my driving down)
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
the suspension is stock, except for SFC's. my stock LCA's are on relocation brackets on my 9" and are at the lowest position possible.
I'm goina keep the front sway bar since it is a street car, just curious though
does it seem like slicks are going to be a "must have" or does these nitto's seem to be doing the job? I was breaking them loose pretty easily
I'm goina keep the front sway bar since it is a street car, just curious though
does it seem like slicks are going to be a "must have" or does these nitto's seem to be doing the job? I was breaking them loose pretty easily
Your suspension is killing your times. I don't care what tire you run, your 60' will suck until you get LCAs and TA. I went from 1.9-1.85 to 1.6Xs with just a TA swap. I already had LCAs and LCA brackets. That was many mods ago.
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Verdad Gallardo I have a 9" with BMR TA and LCAs. Now I don't know how old it is but I did have to redrill the holes for the rear TA mount tabs. Works fine now. But I think UMI sells a unit that will work for both stock and 9" rears. It has two sets of holes and pricing is pretty good too.
Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
oh yeah, why not past 6400-6500?
6400-6500 on the bottle
Just because nitrous makes a lot of torque and your not really doing any good spinning it real high on the bottle, plus if you have a stock bottom end the rod bolts are weak and may break if you turn it real high on the bottle. Now I have run mine higher on the 100 shot to keep from having the hit 4th gear at the 1/8th mile track. The result was my trap speed went from 98 to 100.
Originally Posted by BADSZ28
I have a 9" with BMR TA and LCAs. Now I don't know how old it is but I did have to redrill the holes for the rear TA mount tabs. Works fine now. But I think UMI sells a unit that will work for both stock and 9" rears. It has two sets of holes and pricing is pretty good too.
UMI tunnel brace mounted torque arm here. I love it. Best 60' of a 1.58, spinning (it had sprinkled and the track was a little damp)
Its powdercoated black and its all shinning and pretty. Watch out momma I'm going fast! 