2QuickZ's

You ARE joking, right? There are a bunch of bolt on LS1's running 11's and 12's. The auto's tend to fair a little better. I know bolt on LS1's have run 11.4x @ 115. I've also heard bolt on M6's pulling 118 mph trap speeds.

Hell, my car ran the 12.3x with stock exhaust manifolds, gutted cats, factory cat back w/ a cutout, stock clutch, shifter & 10 bolt. Only weight reduction was spare tire & jack + skinnies on the front. I've got a wopping $500 in mods (less rims/tires I already had). And from what I've seen, my car isn't that much of a factory freak either.

Scoobie

iTrader: (8)

Stock Z06 cars here running 8.2's 8.3's in the 1/8th. My cam only car, and 2 others here run 8.0's all day long. Will they catch me? i dont think so, my mph is 90. Theres is around 88. But i have never had a race with one on the street or 1/4th yet.

fastlif

iTrader: (1)

My heads cam car runs mid 11's all day on ET Streets, High 11's at worst on Drag radials. Buddies CAM ONLY car runs very near same. Never seen a z06 do that. I guess it all depends on set-up and driver.

Colonel

When my '02 was internally stock, at full weight, with stock gears, and on radial tires it ran 11.8s at 113MPH. Ya think I would have been scared of a stock ZO6?

Now that it has MTI heads/cam, a stock ZO6 is not even on my list of potential victims.

You guys running 12s with heads/cam cars should be ashamed. :p

The Juggernaut

iTrader: (7)

Hi.

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

i have a h&c combo in my 01 m6 and have killed 3-zo6's and it was not close.you better be able to drive,the zo6 is a bad azz car.making your car lighter is also a good idea to.

2002_TAWS6

I dont know if I want to believe that. 11.8s?!?!?! I know radial tires are really good but Jesus Christ!! Its like your saying "with stock tires 02 Camaros and Trans Ams are as quick as C5s are in the 1/4 doing mid 13s. Change the tires and it would be just as fast as a 2002 911 twin turbo." Most magazines rate fbody at 13.8s and what your saying is that it runs 2 seconds quicker with a different set of tires! not to mention about 8MPHS faster as well.

Ummm... What did you launch at? Was the weather 40F or less with negative 200% humidity? Im not trying to call you a liar here, Im just trying to NOT call myself a believer!

I can believe the fact that an 02 fbody could do 110-113mphs with free mods etc... But bone stock.. i dont think so.

What did you do to your car when you ran 11.8s besides the tires? If you had something as simple as a cutout I would want to know!

Is it an A4 right?

You gotta be kidding. I am hoping to run mid 12s with H&C.

1 more question. If it ran 11.8s stock with radial tires then what did you run with your stock tires?

Also did you happen to dyno your car before running the track? I would really want to know at what your Air/Fuel ratio was at WOT.

Scoobie

iTrader: (8)

2002 TAWS6, I believe the good colonel stated he was internally stock. Not Bone Stock. I for one have scene with my own eyes a full bolt on 02 SS put down 364 RWHP. Colonel is well known for weight reduction. 11.8 is really fast, true, but we dont know if he was spraying while making that pass. My car went 11.72 on a 100 shot with a lid, mac headers, mufflex and 3.73s. That was a long time ago now, the car was put back to stock, and then upgraded again.

Colonel

No no no...no nitrous. You think I'd run only 113 MPH if I was spraying? LOL! This particular car has never even had a kit on it. This was NA. There were a few LS1Tech members present that can verify. Besides, I ran 11.56 about 3-4 years ago internally stock in my '00. 11s are easy.

Like Scoobie said, I NEVER said bone stock. I said internally stock...as in, the valve covers had never been off of the engine. I am certainly NOT saying that you can change the tires and drop two seconds. I have all the bolt-ons known to man except for an electric water pump. Don't have that one yet. I also had a TCI 3500 stall converter (so yes, A4) which helps out tremendously.

And I NEVER said this was done on stock tires. I said it was done on RADIAL tires. They were 315/35/17" Nittos drag radials to be exact.

Weight reduction? Well, I pulled the spare tire, the jack, and the tunnel brace (about 3 or 4 lbs.) I was also running a carbon fiber driveshaft which is good for about 4 lbs under a stock aluminum one. Of course, my 11" wide Fikses and wide tires probably make up for all of this including the spare and jack.

Seem clearer now? Read carefully grasshoppa! I do not lie.

Colonel

BTW, here's a FULL list of mods when I ran 11.82.

[b]Fast Toys Ram Air
MTI Lid
GMS MAF sensor
Ported TB
NGK TR-6 plugs
QTP 1 3/4" headers and Y-pipe
3" QTP electric cuttout
Lowered the car approximately 1 1.5" by cutting the front springs and removing the rear spring cushions.
LCA relocators
Fikse FM-5 17" wheels
315/35/17 Nitto drag radials
ACPT carbonfiber driveshaft
TCI 3500 converter
TCI shift kit
TCI tranny cooler
LS1 Edit programming
160 degree thermostat
Removed spare tire, jack, and tunnel brace.

2002_TAWS6

I appreciate you putting your mods up Colonel. Now I have a little better idea.

Hmmm I still dont see anything BIG you have done to it.

What among these mods is really helping you out here 11 sec wise... I guess its the whole combo. haha.

Dont hold me against what Im about to say here as its mostly done by average guessing:

Quarter mile wise, lowering the car would sacrifice a tenth or two. Weight you say is not a big reduction. Dont know why you had NGK plugs with stock setup , MAF and Ported TB do help with headers and tuning I must agree dont know by how much though lets just say 7 tenths. LCA might give you another 2 tenths for no wheel hopping, converter may give you about 3 tenths (dont know but Im just guessing) nittos could give you 7 tenths with a hard launch... count all those numbers (give or take) and start from a 13.6 and you would hit 11.9 But I dont see you pushing more than 360RWP with all those mods.. thats strange. I just contradicted my last post now didnt I? LOL. Did you dyno it with that setup by any chance? What did you launch at and would that be a little dangerous on stock 10 bolt?

damn Ill have 7000 in sept to spend and I dont know what to do! I jumped from superchargering to heads and cam with maybe a 100 shot but this is really getting hard for me. I was hoping to hit mid to low 12s with heads and cam and now I am noticing if it would perform the way I though then it could compete with a bolt on? All these numbers and parts are confusing the shizzle dizzle out of me. Got any ideas you could help me with Colonel? If so plz PM me.

BTW Colonel did you get the email I sent you with the dynosheet comparison of your heads and cam setup vs the X1 cam? If not let me know and Ill email it to you. Just try to act not so suprised with the results.

(Ahmed)

Colonel

Ahh yeah, I got the dyno sheet you sent me. I thought I wrote back about it. Sorry if I didn't. I really do appreciate you taking the time to send that to me.

Ahmed, it's not always so easy to start adding ET reductions up by saying this is worth 3 tenths, that's worth 2, that's worth 6, etc... It truly is about the whole package. Now let me try and clear up a few things for you...

Lowering the car. This DOES NOT hurt your ET IF you do the LCA relocators to get the geometry back (they even have enough adjustment to get it to better than stock if you haven't lowered much.) My car was not lowered very much. It was a true 1.5" unlike the actual 2.5" or so that people get when they install a kit that claims to be 1.5". Lowering the car can actually help ETs by making the car more aerodynamic.

I was able to hook just fine because of good tires, a great burnout, a great track (HUGE FACTOR!), and an experienced right foot.

I run TR-6 plugs because it allows me to run a little more timing advance and a little leaner mixture without getting ping. I believe I make better power this way but that's just my theory.

The car dynoed 359 RWHP with the converter locked.

The converter was worth alot more than 3 tenths. It was proabably worth at least 5.

I don't remember what I launched the converter at. I go by feel. I don't even look at the tach when I'm at the tree. I stall it up to the point that the rearend rises and no more. Probably a few hundred rpm short of spinning the tires. Stock rearends can run 10s without problem so long as you don't have wheelhop.

Also, I did have really good weather that night. It wasn't awesome weather but it was really good.

2002_TAWS6

No worries about the dyno email. You have been more than helpful to everyone in the forum and we all know it. Something as simple as a dyno graph comparison is just a way for us members of saying thank you for all the help

Your post made perfect sense. Im glad you were able to clear things up for me. I appreciate the constant quick and detailed responses.

Now that you have installed a H&C package to your car how quick do you think it will perform at the 1/4 mile track? (it did go on the same car you were talking about earlier on this thread right?)

14u2nv

Hey...thats not fair! A4s don't require driver skill, at least no where near the skill of a M6. Stall converters...are in a way...A LOT easier to break into the 11s. Now take a 2002 F-body with an A4 and all the bolt ons an NO converter and run 11.s, IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN. Again, a good driver in the f-body with a H/C(decent H/C, some companies have been known to put out some low number H/C set-ups)should be able to lay the smack down on a ZO6. If the f-body driver isn't very good though...bam...by by ZO6, he's GONE and you just got your *** handed to you! The word for today is PRACTICE. Unless you are driving a Ls1 with the driver-delete option (A4 with a stall)you need to get really good at shifting. Perfecting the shifting of a M6 is more important then power level in my opinion. Thats why you see a few 430+hp f-bodies and vettes running low 12s.