Manual Brake Master?
12-02-2008, 11:32 AM
#21
I already redid every line in my car from stracth with a kit from quartermax, I just don't like how it came out. It was my first attempt at doing brake lines from scratch, plus I reused my SLP linelock and left it mounted in the same spot, it works, but it's not wuite as nice as I'd like it to be.
I want to put a burkhart linelock on that's right on the master, use some bulkhead fittings and put a hole thru the wheel well rather then the way I routed the lines, and then rerun the hardline around the engine bay ( I put it on the lower radiator support so that way I could drop the k member and not even have to crack a brake line for when the k member goes in, I will rerun it the same way, but move a couple fittings and do it a little different just so it's a touch nicer)
You know how it is, the first time you do a job like that it may not come out exactly how you planned it, that's what happened to me. It works, just not quite to the level of fabrication/quality that I want it.
I want to put a burkhart linelock on that's right on the master, use some bulkhead fittings and put a hole thru the wheel well rather then the way I routed the lines, and then rerun the hardline around the engine bay ( I put it on the lower radiator support so that way I could drop the k member and not even have to crack a brake line for when the k member goes in, I will rerun it the same way, but move a couple fittings and do it a little different just so it's a touch nicer)
You know how it is, the first time you do a job like that it may not come out exactly how you planned it, that's what happened to me. It works, just not quite to the level of fabrication/quality that I want it.
12-03-2008, 04:49 AM
#24
That and you will need to modify/redo some lines.
Honestly, I don't have any problems stopping a 3350 lb car with drag brakes on it and skinnies from 142 mph. I can't make the first turn off at the track, but I don't have any issues stopping the car.
It's not for a 100 lb person with a 3700 lb car that is for sure, but any decent sized guy isn't gonna find the little increase in peddle pressure that big a deal. Honestly,it's not that much harder I don't think.
Honestly, I don't have any problems stopping a 3350 lb car with drag brakes on it and skinnies from 142 mph. I can't make the first turn off at the track, but I don't have any issues stopping the car.
It's not for a 100 lb person with a 3700 lb car that is for sure, but any decent sized guy isn't gonna find the little increase in peddle pressure that big a deal. Honestly,it's not that much harder I don't think.
12-03-2008, 08:11 AM
#25
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You can keep the stock lines by adding an ABS delete kit to the order. It will allow you to connect from the manual master to the ABS delete block. The ABS delete block will connect to the stock lines.
Redoing the lines is just a nice way to drop a few more pounds and clean things up even more.
Redoing the lines is just a nice way to drop a few more pounds and clean things up even more.
12-03-2008, 08:17 PM
#26
I think i want to do this, delete abs and go to power brakes, after all i did remove my power steering and i still run 205 front tires with a manual rack,
Is there any links to the "good" kit?
I hear the abs delete can save ~10lbs~, what about the manual brakes? lbs?
Is there any links to the "good" kit?
I hear the abs delete can save ~10lbs~, what about the manual brakes? lbs?
12-04-2008, 04:44 AM
#30
removing the abs and all associated wiring, the anual master with the brace and redoing all the lines from scratch was 25 lbs off my car.
I did all the lines from scratch. Quartermax has a good brake line kit that has all -3an fittings, braided hoses, pretty much everything you need to fab your lines from scratch, just get a 2nd roll of brake line from napa.
The an fittings take a single flare, let me warn you of that now, do NOT try to do double flares at the an fittings, there is no need because you are using tube-nuts with them, so the strenth is there and the an fitting is a 37 degree fitting.
I did all the lines from scratch. Quartermax has a good brake line kit that has all -3an fittings, braided hoses, pretty much everything you need to fab your lines from scratch, just get a 2nd roll of brake line from napa.
The an fittings take a single flare, let me warn you of that now, do NOT try to do double flares at the an fittings, there is no need because you are using tube-nuts with them, so the strenth is there and the an fitting is a 37 degree fitting.
12-04-2008, 07:52 AM
#31
Here is a link to our online catalog, which contains Burkharts manual brake master. We have a few in stock, so if you'd like to order soon, or you have any questions, please give me a call.
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...aspx?itemid=72
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...aspx?itemid=72
12-04-2008, 10:32 AM
#32
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We can put together a line kit if desired. We have done this a few times.
Let me know.
Let me know.
Last edited by Steve Burger; 12-05-2008 at 07:15 AM.
12-04-2008, 02:40 PM
#33
(But I also remember when I first drove a power brake car -- years ago -- and how "touchy" it was compared to the manual brake cars and trucks, so I might be biased)
The stopping power is still there. It takes more initial pressure to get the brakes to start working, but not much more pressure after that to get them really working.
Modulating the brakes is easier because it's not such a fine level of change in foot pressure.
There isn't enough flex there to be able to feel it.
Since this is a street/race combo car, I may add one later just so I don't ever have to worry about any kind of flex fatigue in the firewall over the years.
12-04-2008, 07:46 PM
#34
We have the Burkhart ones in stock.
One thing you have to watch on some of the kits out there is that they are selling a cheap master cylinder with the wrong bore size. If you get the wrong bore size the brakes will be firm but wont stop the car. Burkharts kits are the correct setup and we install them on all our cars.
One thing you have to watch on some of the kits out there is that they are selling a cheap master cylinder with the wrong bore size. If you get the wrong bore size the brakes will be firm but wont stop the car. Burkharts kits are the correct setup and we install them on all our cars.
12-05-2008, 04:01 PM
#39
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I've heard from several reputable guys, that drag brakes are ok for the street as long as you realize you have them and allow extra stopping room, just in case you need to shut it down quickly. I definitely plan on getting the strange brakes in the future.
12-05-2008, 04:10 PM
#40
Welp after 50 passes and slowing down from 140+ all season they haven't warped, that's abotu as hard as I think it gets.
I went with the hub style aerospace fronts and the regular drag rears, got them and the master thru Burkhart last year when they had the sale going on right about now, and I've been very happy with them. Honestly it doesn't stop that bad, I mean I nootice a slight delay on the braking, you hit them and there's a little bit of a delay but that's it. They're really not that bad IMO, I wouldn't want them on a 3700 lb street car, but a drag car no problem all day long. Street strip car, yeah I'd learn to kive with that too I think.
I went with the hub style aerospace fronts and the regular drag rears, got them and the master thru Burkhart last year when they had the sale going on right about now, and I've been very happy with them. Honestly it doesn't stop that bad, I mean I nootice a slight delay on the braking, you hit them and there's a little bit of a delay but that's it. They're really not that bad IMO, I wouldn't want them on a 3700 lb street car, but a drag car no problem all day long. Street strip car, yeah I'd learn to kive with that too I think.