Manual Brake Master?
I want to put a burkhart linelock on that's right on the master, use some bulkhead fittings and put a hole thru the wheel well rather then the way I routed the lines, and then rerun the hardline around the engine bay ( I put it on the lower radiator support so that way I could drop the k member and not even have to crack a brake line for when the k member goes in, I will rerun it the same way, but move a couple fittings and do it a little different just so it's a touch nicer)
You know how it is, the first time you do a job like that it may not come out exactly how you planned it, that's what happened to me. It works, just not quite to the level of fabrication/quality that I want it.
Honestly, I don't have any problems stopping a 3350 lb car with drag brakes on it and skinnies from 142 mph. I can't make the first turn off at the track, but I don't have any issues stopping the car.
It's not for a 100 lb person with a 3700 lb car that is for sure, but any decent sized guy isn't gonna find the little increase in peddle pressure that big a deal. Honestly,it's not that much harder I don't think.
Redoing the lines is just a nice way to drop a few more pounds and clean things up even more.
Is there any links to the "good" kit?
I hear the abs delete can save ~10lbs~, what about the manual brakes? lbs?
more done for the space than the weight.
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I did all the lines from scratch. Quartermax has a good brake line kit that has all -3an fittings, braided hoses, pretty much everything you need to fab your lines from scratch, just get a 2nd roll of brake line from napa.
The an fittings take a single flare, let me warn you of that now, do NOT try to do double flares at the an fittings, there is no need because you are using tube-nuts with them, so the strenth is there and the an fitting is a 37 degree fitting.
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...aspx?itemid=72
(But I also remember when I first drove a power brake car -- years ago -- and how "touchy" it was compared to the manual brake cars and trucks, so I might be biased)

The stopping power is still there. It takes more initial pressure to get the brakes to start working, but not much more pressure after that to get them really working.
Modulating the brakes is easier because it's not such a fine level of change in foot pressure.
There isn't enough flex there to be able to feel it.
Since this is a street/race combo car, I may add one later just so I don't ever have to worry about any kind of flex fatigue in the firewall over the years.
One thing you have to watch on some of the kits out there is that they are selling a cheap master cylinder with the wrong bore size. If you get the wrong bore size the brakes will be firm but wont stop the car. Burkharts kits are the correct setup and we install them on all our cars.
I went with the hub style aerospace fronts and the regular drag rears, got them and the master thru Burkhart last year when they had the sale going on right about now, and I've been very happy with them. Honestly it doesn't stop that bad, I mean I nootice a slight delay on the braking, you hit them and there's a little bit of a delay but that's it. They're really not that bad IMO, I wouldn't want them on a 3700 lb street car, but a drag car no problem all day long. Street strip car, yeah I'd learn to kive with that too I think.






