tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

who's running manual brake master? My rear seal is leaking brake fluid and thinking of going manual to clean up the bay.

What's your experience? Any regrets of going manual?

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

we sell them and I run one. They work fine.

John_D.

iTrader: (2)

I run one in my turbo car, works great. Only regret was not doing it sooner.

MADMAN

iTrader: (4)

We have the Burkhart ones in stock.

One thing you have to watch on some of the kits out there is that they are selling a cheap master cylinder with the wrong bore size. If you get the wrong bore size the brakes will be firm but wont stop the car. Burkharts kits are the correct setup and we install them on all our cars.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Would you say that the feel & stopping power are
appropriate to street cars? Or is it a weight for
effort compromise you'd rather save for a purpose
built car?

REDGAR

I am getting it converted this winter.

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

ill be running the burkhart one.

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

what to do about the hole for the booster hose on the intake manifold (FAST 90)? Expandable plug?

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

Is the extra bracing mandatory for you guys, or just an added recommendation?

Thanks!
Tim

dlove

iTrader: (23)

i have one on mine. I usually forget to push the pedal harder on the first stop sign by my house. But after that im good to go lol. It is not that bad at all. Just redrill the pedal for more leverage and you are set. I do get on the brake with 2 feet at the end of the track though.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I have one in my car, with the hole on teh pedal brought up about an inch it stops the car frim 142 down no problem, and I"m still 3350 lbs, with drag brakes.

I did put the additional brace on with the master, just because when we were bleeding the brakes, I noticed the master cyl moving ever so little when we pushed on the pedal hard to try to get all the air out (which I still think there might be a little somewhere, need to rebleed them one of these days). Adding Burkhart's brake got rid of that completely.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

stopping with 2 feet doesnt sound like something i want to do.
im redy to convert more for clearing up room than weight, but i dont want a hard pedal.
ive driven with a bad booster before and the car didnt want to stop without jamming two feet like mentioned above.
how would you rate manual brakes vs a power system without vacuum?
so many threads about this, but none that are accurate to how my brain thinks. ahha.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

its gonna be a lot better then a stock master with no booster. The bore size is what give you your brake pressure. Stock bore with no booster WILL blow *** but with the correct bore size, it will build pressure and stop like a normal brake would.

dlove

iTrader: (23)

im a small guy, 130lbs. so it takes all of me to push the pedal.

it is not as bad as a power brakes with no vacuum, not anywhere near that bad.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'm 6'3 280 and I don't have to hit it with 2 feet. I do the prayer pump at teh end of the track, hit them once, let off then hit them again and the car stops no problem

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

AGain, what did you do about the hole for the booster hose on the intake manifold (FAST 90)?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Rubber cap over the nipple on the intake, that's all I did.

dlove

iTrader: (23)

I have to do the same thing with mine. Like you said a quick bleed should help it out.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Yeah, one of these days I will get to it. I don't really like how the front lines came out, if I redo them I'll have to deal with it then. When the engine is out of the car, and I can sit right in the engine bay is probably when I'll get to it.

dlove

iTrader: (23)

I used a couple addapters and some -3 braided line and didnt have to re flair a thing. Took all of 5 mins to install the lines and then just the time to bleed.