Motor Plate - why?
Motor Plate - why? I don't want to run a motor plate in my next setup (something in the 8.0 range).
I understand that it probably distributes the load a little better when used with a mid-plate, but other than that is it needed?
I understand that it probably distributes the load a little better when used with a mid-plate, but other than that is it needed?
It makes working on the motor inside the car SOO much easier! Headers are a breeze since the motor mounts are gone, and some people prefer motor plates in cars with a high amount of torque to distribute the stress on the block more evenly as opposed to a conventional solid motor mount. I don't know the physics on that aspect, but IMO I would much rather work on a car with motor plates as opposed to motor mounts.
There are several advantages to the motor plate, more + then there is - IMO. With a torsional support bar you don't need the mid plate (I have a mtoor plate with no mid plate in the car)
You will gain:
stiffer front chassis
better header clearance
easier motor in/out
more options for mounting vacum pumps, that sort of thing
more car vibration
car will react a little quicker too, I noticed my reaction times getting a little better with just this change.
no more stress on the cylinder casings from the motor mounts
Only downside, is it's a little harder to get to the #2 plug.
Unless you have a class that doesn't allow them, I'd put one in. Hell if I was building a street car I'd probably put one in.
You will gain:
stiffer front chassis
better header clearance
easier motor in/out
more options for mounting vacum pumps, that sort of thing
more car vibration
car will react a little quicker too, I noticed my reaction times getting a little better with just this change.
no more stress on the cylinder casings from the motor mounts
Only downside, is it's a little harder to get to the #2 plug.
Unless you have a class that doesn't allow them, I'd put one in. Hell if I was building a street car I'd probably put one in.
i agree completely with jl ws-6. my car being a turbo car its just going to make my world soooooo much easier. if your plan on running in the 8.0 index it would probablly just be a good idea to get it done.
Trending Topics
I want to put a midplate in when I have the engine bay ripped apart, not because I need it, but more for the added support.
Plus then I can get rid of the lateral support bar that we put in, it works, but it's a bit of a rig job.
Plus then I can get rid of the lateral support bar that we put in, it works, but it's a bit of a rig job.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Steve,
Where does the mid plate bolt in at? Is that bar nessecary at the back?
I am a little on the fence about whether or not to go with a mid plate.
Can you offer you opinions on the need/benefits of a mid plate when using a front plate? I am definately going front plate, but just not decided yet on the mid.
Where does the mid plate bolt in at? Is that bar nessecary at the back?
I am a little on the fence about whether or not to go with a mid plate.
Can you offer you opinions on the need/benefits of a mid plate when using a front plate? I am definately going front plate, but just not decided yet on the mid.
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 0
From: Out on the farm in Central IL
The bar at th back is where the mid plate will hang. It bolts in between te block and the trans and then bolts to the bar.
The mid plate will ad a lot of strength and structure. Especially in high HP cars. It is a second mount location for the block and to a lesser extent the trans.
The mid plate will ad a lot of strength and structure. Especially in high HP cars. It is a second mount location for the block and to a lesser extent the trans.
It seems like with a mid plate it'll be almost impossible to lean the motor/trans back enough to get to the top bolts on the trans. Do you guys just pull the motor with the trans out of the car with mid and front plates?
On the cars that I have worked on, usually you put the motor/trans together outside the car and put the whole thing in at once, and if you had to just remove the trans, you can usually just drop the headers, get a engine hoist on the motor, then unbolt the mid plate and front plate and lower the motor in the chassis enough to get to the tranny bolts.
This is where a k member like Burkhart's is nice, there's enough room with that k member to drop the oil pan with the motor in the car, which also means there's enough room to lower the motor like I explained above.
When building a race car, this is the kind of stuff that needs to be thought of, what can you do to make it easier to work on when you have to do it in a hurry, and what can you do to make it easier to work on when you're alone.
This is where a k member like Burkhart's is nice, there's enough room with that k member to drop the oil pan with the motor in the car, which also means there's enough room to lower the motor like I explained above.
When building a race car, this is the kind of stuff that needs to be thought of, what can you do to make it easier to work on when you have to do it in a hurry, and what can you do to make it easier to work on when you're alone.
I have heard with just the front plate, it'll allow the motor to bend back "just enough" to get to the trans bolts. I guess it's a question of "is the improvement worth the added PITA?" If it is, I'll run it. If not, I can always add it later i guess. It'd be nice to hear some opinions from those that have both, or did just the motor plate.
I don't find it to be a pita at all really. I am glad I did it, the 1 7/8 stepped to 2 inch headers go in easier then stock manafolds do now without the motor mounts or stands in the way, and I still have the stock k member in the car, so go figure.
If you have the whole car apart, I'd do both, if not the front plate alone is fine, mine's attached by the water pump bolts only and it's fine.
Ya just need to tie the block to the frame so the engine can't move foreward or backwards, one bar on one side is fine that's what I did, or if you aren't afraid of the tranny case cracking you can put a solid tranny mount in too, but I didn't want to take that chance, so I went the torsional support route. Simple bar, with a tab on the frame on the passenger's side that bolts on where the a/c compressor usually does.
If you have the whole car apart, I'd do both, if not the front plate alone is fine, mine's attached by the water pump bolts only and it's fine.
Ya just need to tie the block to the frame so the engine can't move foreward or backwards, one bar on one side is fine that's what I did, or if you aren't afraid of the tranny case cracking you can put a solid tranny mount in too, but I didn't want to take that chance, so I went the torsional support route. Simple bar, with a tab on the frame on the passenger's side that bolts on where the a/c compressor usually does.
My question is it worth the added durability. Has anybody broken a block by not switching to a motor plate?
I have poly mounts now, and vibration is not too bad. I'd imagine with a motor plate there would be a lot more.
I have poly mounts now, and vibration is not too bad. I'd imagine with a motor plate there would be a lot more.
Conrad, I asked about this off/on this year, and some folks said their motor mounts were stripping out from the power of running a low 8 second car. The bolt holes were oblonging was one problem cited. The other responses are already covered by previous posts in this thread (convenience, access).
Conrad, I asked about this off/on this year, and some folks said their motor mounts were stripping out from the power of running a low 8 second car. The bolt holes were oblonging was one problem cited. The other responses are already covered by previous posts in this thread (convenience, access).
I'd just hate to have to run a motorplate on a car I sometimes drive around on the street. Seems like vibration would be a concern.
The vibration isn't that bad, it didn't create any interior rattles or any of that, at leat not for me.
Not sure what you're looking to do in the pwr department, but if you're gonna try to go a bunch faster then the 8.5x you already are, I'd motorplate it.
The stress on the sides of the block is what I'd worry about, which is why I'd never do a solid motor mount either. The motor pulling/pushing on the center of the block like that can't be a good idea, and like you said the heavier the car the more stress there is.
Not sure what you're looking to do in the pwr department, but if you're gonna try to go a bunch faster then the 8.5x you already are, I'd motorplate it.
The stress on the sides of the block is what I'd worry about, which is why I'd never do a solid motor mount either. The motor pulling/pushing on the center of the block like that can't be a good idea, and like you said the heavier the car the more stress there is.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
you can get to them with a universal-joint socket and alot of extension...not sure how a trans shield would affect that though, I have an SFI-cased glide