OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

Just wondering if any of you guys have removed your trunk (err t-top) area that hangs down but really has no real purpose....

i'm contemplating wheelie bars so instead of notching it i'm thinking about cutting it off and doing sheetmetal welded in it's place. I can raise up the fuel pump attached to it, raise up the battery (which is now in that trunk sitting on the floor) and have plenty of room for the top wheelie bar bars.....

anybody got any ideas on doing this or even better pics of it????

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

Some pictures of something similar in this fella's build .

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rbo-build.html

millerpa

iTrader: (14)

heres the only pic i have at work, ill post some more up tonight if you would like

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

that's perfect..... exactly what i needed..... thanks guys....

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

if you want a long wheelie bar you need to cut it out but if your planning on running a shorter one then you dont need to. i left my t top well in there so that i could have a nice place for a fuel cell.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I've seen cars that had the hatch area cut off and just went from the hump all the way to the rear bumper, sorta like that pic I see in this post.

millerpa

iTrader: (14)

some more pics of " Project Stock Tin Can "

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

the wheelie bars i want are 63" and the trunk area has to be notched according to noyzee.... problem is that I have my pump mounted to the bottom of that trunk. so that DEFINITELY needs to be removed. I figure if I raise up that area I can still bolt the pump to it only higher to get it out of the way.... I run a Nasty performance sumped tank so the fuel cell in the trunk is a non-issue....

wlsmoku

and save some weight! this is def on my to do list!

nemss1

yup thinking of doing this also. how much does the stock ttop/trunk area weigh?

WHITE DEVIL

iTrader: (1)

that is exactly what mine looks like i just sunk my fuel cell in there where the sump hangs right below the new floor so i wont drag the pump off if i wheel stand it high

millerpa

iTrader: (14)

It cant be more than 10 lbs, i wasnt to impressed when i cut the 3 pockets out and held them. So alittle weight reduction, cleaner trunk, and better accessibility for mounting fuel cells or bulk heads. there like 20g stamped pieces that dont need to be thick for strength, thats where the stamping comes into place.

So in the long fun im thinking 4-5lbs weight savings max. I have the pieces i cut out and ill try to weight them tonight i sappose?

nemss1

alright thanx man. ya im also doing it for the cleaner trunk

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Millerpa, if you are shooting for 2500 pounds why the steel mini tubs? By the rust I assume steel?

Looking good so far.

millerpa

iTrader: (14)

Thanks, im trying my hardest for a young un expeirence "drag car builder" lol. i just turned 20 and i take some much pride in doing all the work myself, i refuse to pay people to work on it. There is no one really in wyoming that ive heard of or talked to that can help me build this car "specific 4th gen".

Well i didnt know at the time that i had other options like carbon fiber ect. But i really cant see 2 much of a weight difference, like 5 lbs maybe? I know that every pound here and there is where it counts though. But i think and hope i can be around 2500lbs

You guys think i could get to 2500?? havent seen any one post that Race weight yet

9sec93

iTrader: (67)

by race weight, you mean with you in the car 2500 lbs? if so, i hope you are a horse jockey. if you arre shooting for 2500 just the weight of the car i think it is very possible.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

2500 with you not in the car is very do able if its a N/A or nitrous car, if bottle get a carbon bottle.

For what you want the carbon wheel tubs are not worth it, aluminum yes. 5 pounds may nut be much but if you keep that mentality threw out the car it will add up fast.

Keep in mind saftey on the street when cutting and if you ever get in a wreck and insurance looks at it your are screwed, it why I am taking my car off the street.

You can go powerglide if you want and save like 30-40 pounds but I would wait untill you have a motor for it and sometimes you will go faster with a TH-350/400 over a glide.
Id go molly/aluminum as much as you can. A Molly fab 9 is pretty much a must for what you want.

I think a 4400 stall is way over kill for a stock motor car. My old built BBC had a 3800 behned it that spun to like 4000 on the bottle.

millerpa

iTrader: (14)

im not 99lbs like a jockey lol, i weight 140. the goal is to get as close as possible with me in the car, drop as much weight so i can c wut Stock motor and Trans can do, cuz im curious. Then ill build a sick motor/trans setup for some crazy number. Ill Be running a bottle on the side for next season to have alil fun.

Future plans are to build a car that can run Mid 8's and can be realiably DD (not very safe i know) lol smallest cubed motor thats TT that can get a 2500lb car into the 8 will satisfy me for awile.

I dont know if this is realistic?? i like to dream big and try to reach my goals, or maybe im just to young and dont understand and im crazy lol. time will only tell i sappose

millerpa

iTrader: (14)

Just weight the 3 tubs.

Big middle tub 11lbs
Pass. tub 8lbs
Driv. 7


Not sure how much the sheet metal would weight now that its in the car
Guessing 8-12lbs

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

But, where would I put my groceries when I take the family shopping?
Oh ... right ... I don't do that in the firebird anymore LMAO