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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:07 PM
  #21  
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I'd be interested in the opinions to run both as well. I know folks running around 2000 HP with just plates. One guy told me the mounts put alot of stress on the side of the block with the potential to break or crack it so this is interesting to see the different opinions.

BTW, I found another plate here aeicnc.com. Does anyone make one that utilizes the extra holes made in the LSX block for motor plates? I'm looking for both front and mid plates now.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:10 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ATwelveSec02Z28
Price is $245 from summit.

Again this is a bad *** piece if you arent afraid of fabbing things up. The Madman plate is much nicer for a bolt on and go (almost). I plan to have my BMR alternator brackets milled to compensate for the plate thickness, and have that area waterjet cut.
Sorry for the pics stupid blackberry


I like your front dist. setup. Do you know if they make a shorter (low profile) Dist for that? Sorry, bit off topic.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 11:46 PM
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I work for a Performance shop in Arlington Tx. We have a car that runs in the street renegade making over 2000hp at the fly, we run motor and mid plates for strength and for header clearance with 2 1/4" primaries we need all the room we can get, and turbo cars making big power have big pipes so clearance is an issue there too. We go low 7's in the 1/4.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 06:20 AM
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The extra hole on the LSX block can be put in my plates.

When I install motorplates and midplates we remove the motor mounts.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:15 AM
  #25  
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Do you guys recommend running motor mounts if only using a front plate?
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:20 AM
  #26  
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I would be taking the motor mounts off so the stress isn't put on the side of the cylinder casing.


FWIW the motor plate I am running is pretty much the same as the madman setup, except it's one piece with about a 1/2 inch of material across the top holding the 2 sides together as one piece, it's held on by the 6 waterpump bolts, and I put a torsional support on so the motor won't want to move foreward/backwards, attached that to teh a/c bracket holes. I don't have a midplate, next car will, but this one does not.

700 hp and it's been fine, no problems at all. No motor mounts, and headers fall in and out with ease.

Top fuel cars, all the outlaw cars I have seen and most of the race stuff from my local fab guy's shop run a motor plate and a mid plate, no motor mounts.

Once you put the plate on the front and back of the motor, there's no need for a motor mount anymore.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:31 AM
  #27  
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Works for me.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 08:59 AM
  #28  
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One of the reasons for the plates and no motor mounts is to stop the motor mounts from jerking the cylinders out of shape on launch and gear changes.
1500+ hp Pro Stock cars only use motor plates, as well as any professionally built race car. SS, Comp, etc. I can't imagine anybody that actually knows anything running both. Somebody needs to go to a real race and cruise the pit area.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 09:48 AM
  #29  
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I think that pretty much kills the Motor plate and Mounts theory...
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 10:50 AM
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Totally. That was the whole reason I put the motor plate on my car.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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Dan - that distributor is a MSD 8579 ProBillet, I didnt see if they had a low-profile but if they did you would need a flying magnet crank trigger. The 8582 or 8598 distributors might work but Im not positive.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 02:10 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ATwelveSec02Z28
Dan - that distributor is a MSD 8579 ProBillet, I didnt see if they had a low-profile but if they did you would need a flying magnet crank trigger. The 8582 or 8598 distributors might work but Im not positive.
Cool, thanks man. I don't mind running a crank trigger and plan to use the MSD Digital 7 box. What coil did you go with?

Dan
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 02:12 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by DanZ28
Cool, thanks man. I don't mind running a crank trigger and plan to use the MSD Digital 7 box. What coil did you go with?

Dan
If your spending that kind of money get the best one you can get really, the HVC 7 or whatever.... its pricey though.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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Dan I have the 7531 box and a HVC-2 8261 coil. I went with the 8579 distributor since you do not need a crank trigger.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 11:54 AM
  #35  
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I have never seen any car with a motor plate/mid plate with motor mounts..
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ATwelveSec02Z28
Im pretty sure that Fireball only runs plates. I know he is well past the 1000hp mark with low boost.


I know for a 100% fact that Bruce Maichles TransAm in NMCA Prostock uses only plates on his BBC 4th Gen. Part of the reason to use motor/mid plate setup is to give clearance for headers, etc. It also stops any block flex that may occur with stock location mounts.
I run a mid plate too. Also run an engine limiting bar (to prevent front to back motion)
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Qwiknotch
I have never seen any car with a motor plate/mid plate with motor mounts..

You probably won't.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ATwelveSec02Z28
Dan I have the 7531 box and a HVC-2 8261 coil. I went with the 8579 distributor since you do not need a crank trigger.
Thanks!
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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Dan I actually got some bad information from an MSD tech... apparently the distributor triggers suck - a lot of scatter. So a crank trigger is really the only way to go, so an 8379 distributor would be about $30 cheaper.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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at what level of power should you really run midplates too??? i am thinking about going with a front, but dont want to fool with the mid for now
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