Comp Engineering Front Motor Plate
02-03-2009, 09:57 AM
#41
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A bunch of big power guys run both. I will run both.
At the very least for saftey. With big power I don't want to risk a motor riping loose thats held in by a few bolts.
For most of the guys on this site its not an issue, find cars making 1,000hp on low boost and I doubt any run just plates.
At the very least for saftey. With big power I don't want to risk a motor riping loose thats held in by a few bolts.
For most of the guys on this site its not an issue, find cars making 1,000hp on low boost and I doubt any run just plates.
02-03-2009, 10:00 AM
#42
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Madman, you said your motor plate is cut for the frame rails already...do you have a setup that is NOT cut for frame rails? My LS is going into a Fox Body Mustang, thanks.
02-03-2009, 10:04 AM
#43
I know several mid 8 second cars that are only running a front motor plate with a torsion limiter (to stop the motor from moving foreward/backwards) and no mid plate.
Eastside's lsx radial car only ran a motor plate (the one I have in my car actually) and they had no issues at all with it that way, and that car went 8.23 @ 166.
The mid plate I think is a good idea don't get me wrong, next car I build will have one.
Eastside's lsx radial car only ran a motor plate (the one I have in my car actually) and they had no issues at all with it that way, and that car went 8.23 @ 166.
The mid plate I think is a good idea don't get me wrong, next car I build will have one.
02-04-2009, 09:55 AM
#48
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Well, I was leaving out teh factory mounts. I was just thinking Motor Plate Vs. the actual mounts. Obviously, the weight difference their is gonna be next to nothing. I have not weighed the brackets/mounts on teh KMember, but 15 LBS huh?
02-04-2009, 10:05 AM
#49
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Do not take this the wrong way, but I could tell you were learning as you went with the Tig gun (or at least you did not have much experience with teh Tig) Your welds in teh beginning were so-so, but as the thread went on, you started hammering out some real nice one's. Was that your first attempt at a chassis build, if you don't mind me asking? I personally don't think so. It looks like you tackled a few jobs before that. If it WAS your first build, KUDOS. You did a bang up job. I mean, it is nice work either way you slice it, but if it was your first one, than you have a knack for it. 
02-04-2009, 03:59 PM
#51
The stands that bolt to the stock k member that hold the engine mounts/engine in plate are a cast iron piece, I was shocked when I saw how heavy they were when I took them out.
(I put the motor plate on, had the engine attached with the motor mounts, then had the tabs welded on the frame, so I knew the motor didn't move anywhere, once it was on and in place I unbolted the motor mounts, and then the stands)
They're heavy trust me. I bet a good chunk of why an aftermarket k member saves weight is beacuse those big chunks of iron aren't there anymore, it's a little tubullar piece with a bracket on the end.
02-05-2009, 08:55 AM
#52
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Well, I have 2 mounts in my hand right now and they are about 2 MAYBE 3 LBS each. So, looking at @ 5-6 LBS total for teh 2 mounts and a motorplate is in that same area. Not sure where you are coming up with the 15 lbs difference. Maybe I am just misunderstanding you
Again, I do not have access to the Kmember on a Fbody (my ride is a Fox Body) and I will take your word for that. Now, on my Fox body, the actual mount ON teh Kmember are heavy and I can see a pretty big difference there.
02-05-2009, 04:30 PM
#53
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I work for a Performance shop in Arlington Tx. We have a car that runs in the street renegade making over 2000hp at the fly, we run motor and mid plates for strength and for header clearance with 2 1/4" primaries we need all the room we can get, and turbo cars making big power have big pipes so clearance is an issue there too. We go low 7's in the 1/4.
05-19-2010, 07:53 AM
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Bringing this one back from the dead. It appears that the OP got outta here awhile ago but I'd like to know/see how he mounted the alternator. I have the same plates and would like to see what he came up with. My setup is a bit different though as I have a hall effect sensor mounted using the lower mount holes for my crank trigger. Anyway, I'd like to see how he (and others) have done the alternator mount. Yes, I know BMR has a sweet setup but I don't want to spend yet another $130 just to cut it up to make it work. I'm not worried about fabricating something, just don't want to throw away $$ any more than I need to.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.