BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

Started re-doing my whole front end today. I had a friend tell me that the weight difference from the upper a-arms was almost nothing, and not worth it. But i already had purchased used Spohn upper, and lower a-arms, and got them for cheap. I weighed both on my scale.

Spohn upper a-arm.......1.6 pounds w/ spacers

Stock upper a-arm........2.1 pounds

So there you go. I am going to save a whole 1 pound total

Unless the uppers have some magical purpose, I think you could find a better way to spend your money. Just my $.02. What you guys think

joelster

You sure it saves any weight? The stock piece is so chintsy it's almost impossible to make a good piece that weighs less. It looks a lot better but it's a cosmetic piece nonetheless.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

It has a purpose, it allows you to put more caster into the car to make it more stable at high speeds.

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

I did not know that.

C_Rules

iTrader: (7)

that's why i didn't buy them. i just got the lowers in fact i was told some units are even heavier than stock.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

That much caster is totally unneccessary, and not really even realistic for a street car.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Same way with the lower front control arms, they dont weigh squat.

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

Yea, nether is really a big weight saver. I know that the k-member is like 10,000 pound difference . I wanted to just post this up for anyone who was on the fence about purchasing uppers, and lowers. Wish i would have known

joelster

The aftermarket spindles save a nice chunk of weight, but every one that I have seen is a 2" drop spindle and they all cost $500+ which seems a little steep.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

I told you like 50 times. But no, you had to be all baller and have tubular uppers. Tubular uppers that don't even fit I might add. I don't have tubular uppers and look at my car, its kick ***!

Nabdrill

iTrader: (19)

I got the UMI uppers, lowers, and k-member so I could adjust the front wheels inside so they don't stick out... that's a +1 for the tubulars in my book

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

HAHA, yea. Look at me i only run like 10.2 with a 140mph trap speed. No you were right man, but i already bought them, so why the hell not. And yes its just one more thing my car has that your doesnt

93_z28

losing 1 lb of unsprung weight per side isnt a bad thing.

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

I think he meant 1lb with both sides combined!

93_z28

either way,its still lighter and stronger

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

This, I will argue.

Have you ever driven a car that has say 3 degrees of caster in it compared to a car with 10 degrees?

Do you even know what that does to the feel of the car at 140+ mph?

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Yes, I have driven both. I'm not going 160 MPH in the 1/4 and I street drive the car alot so that much caster is unrealistic. 10 degrees of caster and the car has a turning radius of 2000 feet. My car trapped 139.3 last year, I have the caster at 5 or 6 degrees now (stock uppers) and its a good comprimise.

I'm not saying they don't have their place, but on a high 9 or slower street car they aren't worth it.

As for the tucking tires thing, I never understood that. I have never had a problem with my tires sticking out up front, even when the front end was stone stock. Maybe guys are just buying the wrong wheels, I dunno.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

i bought mine cause i got it all at a decent price and its always better to upgrade suspension parts. It doesnt necessarily have to be lighter, although a added bonus, but stronger and stiffer in the front steering is a lot better then flexing stockers. But to be completely honest, if my car was a DD or a total street car, i would buy um. I got mine for my racecar build.

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

Hey, no bashing the sponsorship.

75tonyA

iTrader: (6)

I've had to different brands of aftermarket upper a-arms on my street car and both sets bent on the center plate where the ball joint bolts up. I was not in an accident/ didn't hit anything.