TA1364

iTrader: (11)

Just bag 4-5 hundreths and judge the finish linee, then no matter what the car decides to do you know you will have enough.

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

We actually have a Stewart Warner shift light that is set at 2200 rpm for staging. We light the top bulb, get on the converter and slowly bring it to 2200 rpm until the light is on and then we blink in (very carefully) until the second staging light is on. This allows us to leave at the same rpm and spot everytime. If we are slow on the tree during TnT, we can raise the shift light rpm or lower it if we are going red. You need to leave at the same rpm and spot or your 60fts will be all over the place as will your ET.

I have found that a looser feeling converter (sloppy at low rpms) makes staging easier and is less sensitive to small staging rpm differences. It's not ideal for a street car, but we are talking bracket racing here.

dontgodumb

iTrader: (2)

Once again thanks for all the help, anymore tips?

datz kool

Having run a tube chassie corvette, with out the box you have the experience already, it just takes laps to figure it out,do the same thing every time,do your burnout,line up the car and get a line down the track, find the groove, take your time,clear the motor do a short dry hop, check the guages, pre stage, clear the motor again, get in bring the motor to the limiter at run for your life........

good luck

Wicked ls 1

I know this is old,but just found it during a search. So what youre doing is basically using a shift light instead of a 2 step to lauch at a specific rpm?

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

Yes. We prestage, bring the rpms up until the shift light comes on and hold it there and blink in as shallow as possible. We leave on the first hint of the third yellow. The light allows us to stage and launch at the same rpm everytime.

Keep in mind that most shift lights do not work at lower rpms. I had to dig around to find one that would. The SW Ultra shift light was the ticket.

G/L

Wicked ls 1

Thanks sounds like what I may need to do.Was gonna get a 2 step,but this sounds a little better for a foot brake racer.

bracketracerZ28

not to jack the thread but what about the guys who are bracketracing ls1's and because of the computer, are having difficulty dialing in? One guy told me to get control of my computer but that sounds expensive. I've only been racing 3 years but so far, it seem like my car chases the intake temp? Anybody out there that can help the ls1 guys in bracket racing?

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

When I bracket race or index race
I always stage as shallow as possible to make sure I get consistant lights
I always run the car at full operating temp(for me is 190)
use the 2 step( I find if I launch off the converter its not very consistant)
use a weather station and keep logs
run your own race dont even look at the guy beside you unless he spun or something
always run bye runs or it the other guy redlights out the back door and log the data for the next round

patriotformula

iTrader: (28)

^more experienced guys never look forward... I have a few buddies who bracket race for big bucks and travel the country doing it. Say they only use their peripheral vision to look forward..

bracketracerZ28

are you running the stock computer? does your car actually chase the temp? I have been told that SD tuning will chase the temp. I also stage shallow and bump in, as well as leave off the 2 step.

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

I am trying to say that if you try to judge the line or you have a good chance to break out(just run your own race) and you best get a .020 light or better or your prolly back on the trailer anyhow
if you log the D/A and all your runs you shouldnt break out anyway(I dial .02 faster than my round prediction)
I didnt mean you will crash or anything
I hae been racing Mod Et and index racing for about 14 years now



I run the stock computer and set the fans to run all the time and like I said run full operating temp all the time.I am not sure what you mean by "chase the temp" I have an obd LT1 so I know it does less than OBD2 in alot of ways
one other thing I forgot never use the stock tach or gauges buy aftermarket

TA1364

iTrader: (11)

This is not the best idea. You want to take as little stripe as you can to make sure you dont break out. Playing safe will only get you so far,later rounds people have good lights and go dead on or close to.

If your having trouble dialing in, dial up 3-4 hundreths and "judge" the stripe. It takes a lot of practice especially when theres big gaps in dial ins though.

bracketracerZ28

that's what I've been trying to do is dial up. sometimes though, my car will all of a sudden lose or gain a full tenth. Usually after someone has broke and the track is down for an hour.

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

See I only trap 128 mph and trying to judge the line with a dragster that traps 170 mph will lose you the race trust me been there done that

TA1364

iTrader: (11)

True, I guess he didnt mention what the et range for the class he runs is. Ive ran a 150mph trapping car with my 114 and is was almost impossible.

bracketracerZ28

I run in the et series sportsman class. can't go quicker than 12.0 so racing is tight.

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

When running someone with a big closure rate, you just want to make a call with 100-200 feet to go in a 1/4 mile race if you think he/she will "get there." Even running my Formula (which normally clocks low 13s), I've dumped a few dragsters b/c I didn't think they'd make the stripe in time. You can dial hard where you think you can leg it out and never lift, but once you get bitten not judging the stripe b/c you think there's no way I can break out, your driving style will change.

Just my $.02

Derek

bracketracerZ28

so true. I was really hoping to get more info on trying to dial these computer controlled cars in. its really a crapshoot most of the time and very annoying when the driver does his job and the car suddenly picks up or loses 5 -6 hundreds. Thats when bracketracing isn't fun.

91RS383

I've found my weather computer is much more accurate when I predict with OA (Oxygen Altitude) rather than DA. Probably has to do with the MAF. OA changes quickly so I try to dial as late as possible. It makes me nervous though when the guy just before me breaks and I have to wait 30 min or more.