manual brakes question
this is from advance website. orielys has the best price on them, but advance is picture friendly.
never seen one come witha clear tank on them, only black.
local chaiss builder odered a wilwood one time and it actually had the aftermarket parts store part # stamped right on the body.
never seen one come witha clear tank on them, only black.
local chaiss builder odered a wilwood one time and it actually had the aftermarket parts store part # stamped right on the body.
it cleans up the engine bay, allows for more "room" also gives a more positive pedal feel i believe. im pretty sure dlove has manual brakes w/ stock ls1 brakes. im pretty sure it'll work fine, just need to allow more stoping distance.
anyone able to shed some light on my post above?
thanks
anyone able to shed some light on my post above?
thanks
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 3
From: Edmond, OK
how much more foot pressure has to be applied (how much harder) with manual brakes?
heard of some people having to use 2 feet coming to a stop down the dragstrip. dont like the sound of having to use 2 feet to stop
heard of some people having to use 2 feet coming to a stop down the dragstrip. dont like the sound of having to use 2 feet to stop
I have aerospace drag brakes, a burkhart/strange master cylinder, and have no problems stopping a 3350 lb car from 142+
Yes there's a little more pedal pressure requires, but not so much that it's a problem. One foot and I have no issues.
Yes there's a little more pedal pressure requires, but not so much that it's a problem. One foot and I have no issues.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 3
From: Edmond, OK
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Verdad Gallardo Just get a the manual master from burkhart, it's got the right valving in it already, non need for a proportioning valve or any of that.
If you refab the lines on the car from scratch like I did with a brake line kit I got from quartermax, you can redo them with -3an fittings and tube nuts, and run teh lines nice and clean on the car. Use a 37 degree flare with them, and it's pretty easy to do.
If you refab the lines on the car from scratch like I did with a brake line kit I got from quartermax, you can redo them with -3an fittings and tube nuts, and run teh lines nice and clean on the car. Use a 37 degree flare with them, and it's pretty easy to do.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 3
From: Edmond, OK
Just get a the manual master from burkhart, it's got the right valving in it already, non need for a proportioning valve or any of that.
If you refab the lines on the car from scratch like I did with a brake line kit I got from quartermax, you can redo them with -3an fittings and tube nuts, and run teh lines nice and clean on the car. Use a 37 degree flare with them, and it's pretty easy to do.
If you refab the lines on the car from scratch like I did with a brake line kit I got from quartermax, you can redo them with -3an fittings and tube nuts, and run teh lines nice and clean on the car. Use a 37 degree flare with them, and it's pretty easy to do.
any other kits with the right valving so i wouldnt have to use a proportioning valve?
http://rjracecars.com/details.php?pr...e%20line%20kit
Tabs to weld to the body, everything you need. That's what I used, and it was perfect.
The stock master with teh power booster vs the manual one is a good 15 lbs, and it cleans the engine bay up a TON.
Refabbing the lines yourself from stracth, is a TON cleaner then the ABS delete that uses the factory lines, and also saves another 10 lbs I bet, as you only have a single line going the back of the car that you can T off to each wheel.
I ran the lines on the body up by the fuel tank so that there's less crap on the rear, and you can drop the rear if you want without having to unhook the lines if you tie the calipers up to the car. I also ran the front line across under the radiator support, so that the k member can be dropped and changed without cracking a brake line as well. PITA, but it worked out pretty good, and it came out prety good IMO for a first attempt, especially considering I did it in january last winter and it was about 5 degrees outside, and all I had was my space heater in the garage at night when I was out there working (cold as HELL!)
it cleans up the engine bay, allows for more "room" also gives a more positive pedal feel i believe. im pretty sure dlove has manual brakes w/ stock ls1 brakes. im pretty sure it'll work fine, just need to allow more stoping distance.
anyone able to shed some light on my post above?
thanks
anyone able to shed some light on my post above?
thanks
Also, I bought some metric to -3 adapters, some -3 line, a -3 T, and a adapter for the master to a -3.
I didn't have to flare anything. I just undid the stock lines and put these in.
I didn't have to flare anything. I just undid the stock lines and put these in.
