manual brakes question
Because I didn't want to be spilling fluid all over the place while trying to install the master myself, it was enough of a pita to get the thing in there and rig it up to stay put so I could get inside the car upside down and bolt it up.
If you have a 2nd set of hands when you do the install, by all means absolutely bench bleed the master.
But if you're putting it in yourself, I wouldn't do it if you don't want to dissolve a bunch of paint.
But if you're putting it in yourself, I wouldn't do it if you don't want to dissolve a bunch of paint.
Don't really understand your reasoning for not bench bleeding because you installed it yourself????
You put the reservoir caps back on, and if you want, you can put the little blue plugs back in it for the lines,while you install, but fluid does not come out until you push the piston in. So don't push the piston in. I installed mine by my self, the only hard part was tightening the bolts to the firewall, had to rig up the allen wrench while tightening the nuts from under the dash.
There is no excuse not to, I have the directions from Strange sitting right here. It says it is IMPERATIVE to bench bleed. "The majority of soft pedals result from not bleeding the master cylinder before it is installed"
You put the reservoir caps back on, and if you want, you can put the little blue plugs back in it for the lines,while you install, but fluid does not come out until you push the piston in. So don't push the piston in. I installed mine by my self, the only hard part was tightening the bolts to the firewall, had to rig up the allen wrench while tightening the nuts from under the dash.
There is no excuse not to, I have the directions from Strange sitting right here. It says it is IMPERATIVE to bench bleed. "The majority of soft pedals result from not bleeding the master cylinder before it is installed"
Don't really understand your reasoning for not bench bleeding because you installed it yourself????
You put the reservoir caps back on, and if you want, you can put the little blue plugs back in it for the lines,while you install, but fluid does not come out until you push the piston in. So don't push the piston in. I installed mine by my self, the only hard part was tightening the bolts to the firewall, had to rig up the allen wrench while tightening the nuts from under the dash.
There is no excuse not to, I have the directions from Strange sitting right here. It says it is IMPERATIVE to bench bleed. "The majority of soft pedals result from not bleeding the master cylinder before it is installed"
You put the reservoir caps back on, and if you want, you can put the little blue plugs back in it for the lines,while you install, but fluid does not come out until you push the piston in. So don't push the piston in. I installed mine by my self, the only hard part was tightening the bolts to the firewall, had to rig up the allen wrench while tightening the nuts from under the dash.
There is no excuse not to, I have the directions from Strange sitting right here. It says it is IMPERATIVE to bench bleed. "The majority of soft pedals result from not bleeding the master cylinder before it is installed"
I didn't bleed the thing on the bench, and the next one I do, I won't bleed that one either. Fill it in the car, let it sit for a day or so full of fluid with the brake bleeders cracked and it will bleed itself, I've done it twice, and would have no problems doing it this way again.
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Verdad Gallardo Kind of hard not to push the rod at all when you're adjusting the rod with the brake pedal.
I didn't bleed the thing on the bench, and the next one I do, I won't bleed that one either. Fill it in the car, let it sit for a day or so full of fluid with the brake bleeders cracked and it will bleed itself, I've done it twice, and would have no problems doing it this way again.
I didn't bleed the thing on the bench, and the next one I do, I won't bleed that one either. Fill it in the car, let it sit for a day or so full of fluid with the brake bleeders cracked and it will bleed itself, I've done it twice, and would have no problems doing it this way again.
You are making it way too hard on yourself. You install the master, after bench bleeding. After it is bolted to the firewall, then you hook up the lines, then you do the pedal. No mess, and can be accomplished alone.
Cracking the bleeders and leaving it for a day??? I would imagine you would have to babysit it, so the reservoir does not go empty?
When done correctly, bleeding the whole system is a 10 minute job, by yourself.
I'd like to see someone bleed brakes alone, how the hell are you going to push the pedal, crack a bleeder then turn around and tighten the bleeder back up before releasing the pedal?
I didn't babysit it, I filled the master up with fluid, cracked the line farthest from the master, let it sit while I was doing other stuff, then when it started to get some fluid dripping I tightened that one up, loosened the next one, topped the master off, did the same thing for the rest of the car... took a couple hours tops.
Did the same thing again the next night while I was working on other stuff, went in the house and left it overnight with the caps off and all the bleeders tight.
Started bleeding the brakes the next day with a buddy, had it done in about 5 min, drove the car, found the pedal to be mush, brought it back, spent a couple more hours filling the master, pumping the pedal and cracking bleeders and it was done.
I started with a brand new system, no fluid in the calipers, none in the lines nothing. Couple nights and it was done.
If there's a way to do it without another person, it's got to involve some tool or something I don't have, and now that I know I can do it without buying said tool that's probably gonna get used less then a dozen times in my lifetime, I'll go without it and do it old school like we did.
The 3350 lb car stops from 142+ with no problems, and I can make the first turnoff @ the track if I want to be an ******* and slam the brakes on, but usually see no reason to do that.
I didn't babysit it, I filled the master up with fluid, cracked the line farthest from the master, let it sit while I was doing other stuff, then when it started to get some fluid dripping I tightened that one up, loosened the next one, topped the master off, did the same thing for the rest of the car... took a couple hours tops.
Did the same thing again the next night while I was working on other stuff, went in the house and left it overnight with the caps off and all the bleeders tight.
Started bleeding the brakes the next day with a buddy, had it done in about 5 min, drove the car, found the pedal to be mush, brought it back, spent a couple more hours filling the master, pumping the pedal and cracking bleeders and it was done.
I started with a brand new system, no fluid in the calipers, none in the lines nothing. Couple nights and it was done.
If there's a way to do it without another person, it's got to involve some tool or something I don't have, and now that I know I can do it without buying said tool that's probably gonna get used less then a dozen times in my lifetime, I'll go without it and do it old school like we did.
The 3350 lb car stops from 142+ with no problems, and I can make the first turnoff @ the track if I want to be an ******* and slam the brakes on, but usually see no reason to do that.
A mighty-vac vacuum pump, which can be used for tons of different things, makes it an easy one man job.
Here is one....
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mit6820.html
Less than $30.
Here is one....
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mit6820.html
Less than $30.
nah. just some people are old school.
ive found that pumping and holding, then having someone hit the bleeder works better for a brand new braking system, IMO.
those pumps work good for existing systems.
ive found that pumping and holding, then having someone hit the bleeder works better for a brand new braking system, IMO.
those pumps work good for existing systems.
Bringing this thread back. I'm going to be purchasing a manual brake kit from either Burkhart or Midwest and was going to be deleting the abs the same time. From reading this thread, as I understand, if I buy a Burkhart manual brake kit, then I don't need to buy a abs delete kit? Going to be using stock brakes. Just want the cleanest, most simple install. Will fab my own lines throughout the car if needed.
Bringing this thread back. I'm going to be purchasing a manual brake kit from either Burkhart or Midwest and was going to be deleting the abs the same time. From reading this thread, as I understand, if I buy a Burkhart manual brake kit, then I don't need to buy a abs delete kit? Going to be using stock brakes. Just want the cleanest, most simple install. Will fab my own lines throughout the car if needed.
earls and several others make adapters to get the job done.
why are you doing manual brakes on a stock setup? do you have plans to upgrade to aftermarket in the future?
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Bringing this thread back. I'm going to be purchasing a manual brake kit from either Burkhart or Midwest and was going to be deleting the abs the same time. From reading this thread, as I understand, if I buy a Burkhart manual brake kit, then I don't need to buy a abs delete kit? Going to be using stock brakes. Just want the cleanest, most simple install. Will fab my own lines throughout the car if needed.
are the flex lines the ones that go across the k-member from the factory? I was just going to run new lines on my tubular k-member. I DO plan to go with Aerospace or Strange brakes in a year or so and I believe Dlove ran the same setup before.