Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
02-21-2011, 02:03 PM
#361
ya. not sure on the front , but in the back looks like there some extra you can cut. Like the whole bottem off it maybe? Got any pics?
and what do you need to do, I think I saw somone adding washer or something any removing everything? Like just bolting the latch right to the door,
and what do you need to do, I think I saw somone adding washer or something any removing everything? Like just bolting the latch right to the door,
https://ls1tech.com/forums/9264482-post146.html
and
https://ls1tech.com/forums/9325169-post156.html
03-02-2011, 06:10 PM
#366
i didn't weight the fronts. Its been posted form a few guys, I don't remembered were theirs weighted? anyone??? It was maybe 10-13ponds for both sides? I cut them off and left about 1/8 lip for some strength with the bend there, but I cut them off all the way to the back that I dont think most did.
I know cutting them out, the frame horns, some of the lower airdam metal, some of the front plastics. The horn bracket. Was more then I was thinking. It was most of the garbage can and the garage. 30-35????
The car in St. Louise was 3240 I think with me, I was really happy about that. Thats the 16's with MT Drs and full exhausts. Thats the 24/7 street mode, Page 16-17
Were it was 3360 last time I checked "street mode" setup that time you beat me. That was with the truetrac, not cutting anything on the front really. Its all adds up, I still have front and rear stock brakes with Ebrake, I'm hoping to get stranges (???? 100pounds?). The 3rd gen spindles. Get the rear speedglass in (27). The TRZ ARB setup is a little lighter. I'm not done with the back of the car too.
oh my extra wire box is almost 30 too
I know cutting them out, the frame horns, some of the lower airdam metal, some of the front plastics. The horn bracket. Was more then I was thinking. It was most of the garbage can and the garage. 30-35????
The car in St. Louise was 3240 I think with me, I was really happy about that. Thats the 16's with MT Drs and full exhausts. Thats the 24/7 street mode, Page 16-17
Were it was 3360 last time I checked "street mode" setup that time you beat me. That was with the truetrac, not cutting anything on the front really. Its all adds up, I still have front and rear stock brakes with Ebrake, I'm hoping to get stranges (???? 100pounds?). The 3rd gen spindles. Get the rear speedglass in (27). The TRZ ARB setup is a little lighter. I'm not done with the back of the car too.
oh my extra wire box is almost 30 too
03-09-2011, 11:33 PM
#371
Sorry about the slight delay. You just bolt it right back in. That bracket that holds the door bars in is a giant L.
With the door bar attached it looks like this:
_ <-- Front of door
l
l
l <-- Door Bar
l
l
L <-- Rear of door by the latch
With cutting out the door bar and part of the bracket it connects to it looks like this:
_ <-- Front of door
<-- No door bar
_ <-- Rear of door by the latch
You just cut the vertical part of the L off and leave the horizontal part. That keeps the piece that the door latch connects to and you just saved some extra weight.
If that needs to be clarified let me know.
With the door bar attached it looks like this:
_ <-- Front of door
l
l
l <-- Door Bar
l
l
L <-- Rear of door by the latch
With cutting out the door bar and part of the bracket it connects to it looks like this:
_ <-- Front of door
<-- No door bar
_ <-- Rear of door by the latch
You just cut the vertical part of the L off and leave the horizontal part. That keeps the piece that the door latch connects to and you just saved some extra weight.
If that needs to be clarified let me know.
03-10-2011, 12:47 AM
#372
If that is your car, did you put anything between the frame rails before you cut all that out? If not, you may have some issues, I bet the front end sagged in when you cut out the support. (This is the reason I am leaving all mine intact until it's on the jig at the chassis shop, so it doesn't get twisted while it's sitting in the garage)
03-10-2011, 03:43 PM
#373
Sorry about the slight delay. You just bolt it right back in. That bracket that holds the door bars in is a giant L.
With the door bar attached it looks like this:
_ <-- Front of door
l
l
l <-- Door Bar
l
l
L <-- Rear of door by the latch
With cutting out the door bar and part of the bracket it connects to it looks like this:
_ <-- Front of door
<-- No door bar
_ <-- Rear of door by the latch
You just cut the vertical part of the L off and leave the horizontal part. That keeps the piece that the door latch connects to and you just saved some extra weight.
If that needs to be clarified let me know.
With the door bar attached it looks like this:
_ <-- Front of door
l
l
l <-- Door Bar
l
l
L <-- Rear of door by the latch
With cutting out the door bar and part of the bracket it connects to it looks like this:
_ <-- Front of door
<-- No door bar
_ <-- Rear of door by the latch
You just cut the vertical part of the L off and leave the horizontal part. That keeps the piece that the door latch connects to and you just saved some extra weight.
If that needs to be clarified let me know.
Did you heave the full horizontal (in your drawing) part, or cut it down in height too? I was thinking you could cut the bottom stuff off it too?
03-10-2011, 04:55 PM
#374
You can see where the door bar bolts to the bracket that I removed from the car in this picture as they're still attached.
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/8...removedjt3.jpg
I plan on doing the same thing to my Formula once I get the roll bar in there.
03-10-2011, 07:14 PM
#375
If that is your car, did you put anything between the frame rails before you cut all that out? If not, you may have some issues, I bet the front end sagged in when you cut out the support. (This is the reason I am leaving all mine intact until it's on the jig at the chassis shop, so it doesn't get twisted while it's sitting in the garage)
03-27-2011, 01:25 PM
#380
Bought a set of the Racecraft spindles for 3rd gen brakes. They fit 15,16,17 rims, and I got them with a stock style tapered hole tierod end, no extra charge. So I can run the stock PS rack for now, and just drill it out if I get a manual rack down the road. And a set of the newer strange Pro2 brakes, the stuff is really nice. The rotors slip over the alum rotor hats and just a big spriloc holds them in.So they float on these big teeth on the hat, and they do alot better with heat cycles. Still say there for racing use but a lot of guys with lighter cars said the normal style was fine for street use.
http://www.strangeengineering.net/ne...rake-Kits.html
Every parts has a clean finish with no shape edges, a good plating (black) , or coating . Nothing is raw alum. or painted. The alum threads have a metal thread insert, unless the part has a lot of threads and isn't something them gets taken apart ever. Came with everything but flex bake lines, and grease.
The wheel studs are 1/2. So need to get new lugnuts for the front brakes. I'm nut sure if I'm gona change the rear over the 1/2 too. Just so the car is all 1/2 for the stock wheels, and drag wheels? I can see it biting me in the *** have the front and rear diffrent sizes for all the street miles and trips I take? Good thing is I think I had my rear axles with 3 patterns 12mm press, (.509 hole or something) 12mm screw and 1/2 screw.
http://www.strangeengineering.net/ne...rake-Kits.html
Every parts has a clean finish with no shape edges, a good plating (black
) , or coating . Nothing is raw alum. or painted. The alum threads have a metal thread insert, unless the part has a lot of threads and isn't something them gets taken apart ever. Came with everything but flex bake lines, and grease.The wheel studs are 1/2. So need to get new lugnuts for the front brakes. I'm nut sure if I'm gona change the rear over the 1/2 too. Just so the car is all 1/2 for the stock wheels, and drag wheels? I can see it biting me in the *** have the front and rear diffrent sizes for all the street miles and trips I take? Good thing is I think I had my rear axles with 3 patterns 12mm press, (.509 hole or something) 12mm screw and 1/2 screw.