Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
10-03-2010, 10:09 AM
#321
the engine bay looks better for sure, thanks. ya clear would make it harder for scuffing, but maybe look too bling for my taste. i'm scard of messing it up aready putting it back together, it kinda sucks. haha
were i put the dotted line, and you can see the paint color change is that crease line i think your talking about. if anyone has any pics of there car in this area and what they did i'd like to see them.
this is what i'm thinking about for some anti sag/flap bars. i put 2 on the rear bumper you can see any helped a ton. just some 1/8 x 3/4 alum you can get a 10mm or 1/4-20 bolt on each end. /marked with and without the lower flap cut off. still gona run the front air damn, cut down to onlt 5 holes. will test it off, what it really dose.
were i put the dotted line, and you can see the paint color change is that crease line i think your talking about. if anyone has any pics of there car in this area and what they did i'd like to see them.
this is what i'm thinking about for some anti sag/flap bars. i put 2 on the rear bumper you can see any helped a ton. just some 1/8 x 3/4 alum you can get a 10mm or 1/4-20 bolt on each end. /marked with and without the lower flap cut off. still gona run the front air damn, cut down to onlt 5 holes. will test it off, what it really dose.
Last edited by studderin; 10-03-2010 at 10:20 AM.
10-06-2010, 02:44 PM
#324
Launching!
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I cut my front bumper exactly where your dotted lines are. I just taped it off with some masking tape and used a dremel to cut it. I will try and get some pics of it tomorrow for you. Works great though havent had one issue with it.
10-07-2010, 02:02 AM
#326
thanks steeps i'll find out. this was 25 maybe 30..
cars done, the front is really really solid. used 6 little 3/16 1/2x3/4 alum angle to barce some spot. cut the bumper down, fill the fog light holds for better aero. cut down the airdamn, is also blocks the alt from road spray in the hyway. took out weight in metal and plastic. got pics looks dont have to to uplaod them. going to the shhouttomarrow.
cars done, the front is really really solid. used 6 little 3/16 1/2x3/4 alum angle to barce some spot. cut the bumper down, fill the fog light holds for better aero. cut down the airdamn, is also blocks the alt from road spray in the hyway. took out weight in metal and plastic. got pics looks dont have to to uplaod them. going to the shhouttomarrow.
10-11-2010, 11:37 AM
#329
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Yeah sorry about the clutch Man i heard that pass on saturday and i was like nooo. And after seeing alot of the cars there i was upset my car is not done i would have done well in the 11.00 class.
10-11-2010, 04:39 PM
#330
also since this thread has alot of weight reduction in it I thought I would add some...
stock carpet with sound deadening removed is 20lbs...
driver side air bag retaining stock cover is 2.5lbs saving...
front inner fender wells were 11lbs together...
also what needs to be done to remove the evap from the gas tank...is a breather needed somewhere or a port blocked by the intake manifold...any ill effects by removing it?
can it be done with the tank still in the car...if not that might be a winter project
stock carpet with sound deadening removed is 20lbs...
driver side air bag retaining stock cover is 2.5lbs saving...
front inner fender wells were 11lbs together...
also what needs to be done to remove the evap from the gas tank...is a breather needed somewhere or a port blocked by the intake manifold...any ill effects by removing it?
can it be done with the tank still in the car...if not that might be a winter project
10-13-2010, 04:38 PM
#331
ya, i fucked up putting a shim in. took it out in the pits fri night, but still slipping sat. i don't even remember what it ran. i need to get some current pics up. the front end it a lot stiffer now, really happy for it came out.
i would have liked to talked to you guys, there was a ton of people there for sure.
i would have liked to talked to you guys, there was a ton of people there for sure.
10-28-2010, 02:25 PM
#332
this was before the shootout, just getting pics hosted now. these came out good, made a cardboard templet,just have to make 1. then cut 2 out of 1/4 lexan. drilled a bunch of little holes thu were the "end" of the opening is in the bumper. So the epoxy can sqeeze in them and lock them in. One regual style plastic 30mins 2in 1 tube you sqweeze out works. i need to paint the front on them flat black or somthing so the look better when you look in them. just sanded out the backside lip inside the bumper, and taped off all the SOM so you don't get glue on it and you don't have to do any body paint
.
i cut the lower flap off, weight 2-3 pounds. And the front end was stiffer without it sagging adding dead weight. But with the braces its really stiff, you could push the front end it if you wanted. But its not saggy or bouncey around the headlights. The braces weight nothing super light alum, and no welding. removed the horn braket and bolted them direct too. removed all the lower bolt clips for weight to, but used a few on the wheel wells. A lot better then the plastic Ts and made the fenders stiffer bolted tight.
only cut the front off the wheel wells, want to keep the top for the wire tuck on the passanger side, and linelock wire. and keep rain down and rocks out of the door.
A few pounds less. didn't know they were 11 for the pair, thats a bunch. maybe if i becomes a race car.
.
i cut the lower flap off, weight 2-3 pounds. And the front end was stiffer without it sagging adding dead weight. But with the braces its really stiff, you could push the front end it if you wanted. But its not saggy or bouncey around the headlights. The braces weight nothing super light alum, and no welding. removed the horn braket and bolted them direct too. removed all the lower bolt clips for weight to, but used a few on the wheel wells. A lot better then the plastic Ts and made the fenders stiffer bolted tight.
only cut the front off the wheel wells, want to keep the top for the wire tuck on the passanger side, and linelock wire. and keep rain down and rocks out of the door.
A few pounds less. didn't know they were 11 for the pair, thats a bunch. maybe if i becomes a race car.
10-28-2010, 03:32 PM
#333
11-02-2010, 10:07 AM
#334
no, but it hasnt had the bumper support for the last few years. this cars not that fast really, and its soild now with ther lower braces. The lower plastics don't really make it soild, just not loose.
what gears did you have before? same size tires?
what gears did you have before? same size tires?
11-07-2010, 10:34 AM
#337
Would anyone be interested in doing all this weight reduction to my car? how much would someone charge? i would love to do the work myself but with work and kids i have no time. pm me if anyones interested in making some money im in sc
11-13-2010, 06:22 PM
#339
Made a new set of LCA and PHR from 4130 and had them powercoated a simi black with a harder sheen, the shop said is a tuff color they use. Wrenchs didn't do anything, some strong paint. Used some old BMX tubes, to make some rod end seals. Pretty simple just have to cut a little sqare for the shaft (a hole dosn;t fit right pulled over the body) take a few ones to get it right. Just lube them up and streach them on with the spacers pressed in, and see how it fits. The old rod ends were still tight and move firm, but this should only help them live on a street car. Don't drive in the rain as much with the spool and MT DR. Check the weather more, and have a truck now too.
TRZ antiroll bar kit is on. Very nice part, I liked the setup alot looking into them.
-lighter then stock they claim? (a soild, stock style one weight a lot more then stock parts. Some of them are like a curling bar)
-great ground clearance
-hidden from the rear veiw.
No fox body with a ARB hanging off the rear end you know can be troble....
-unbolts for easy working on the car
-looks trick
say to use a drill but used a carbide burr to grind some of the holes open for the bolts they use. Need to have a longer 4-5inch burr to get to the 2nd hole on the rear. But think it was safer then using a big 5/8 drill bit on a hand drill, upside down under the car on your back. I can see the drill wrapping up in my arms breaking thu only drilled out a little. And you have to grind a little off the Lip off the frame rail. So the spot is flat were the panhard rod brace bolts with the 3 bolts. Everything bolts on, and you weld the end links on. I took the tank out to remove the evap, and gave a ton more room up there.
Only neg I can think of so far, is now you need some bigger standard wrenches to work on the car 3/4 and 15/16, and 9/16s. A cresent wrench works with the TA anyway in your race track tools. I just liked knowing I only needed 7,8,10,13,15,18,21mm to do anything on the car, no big deal i just really like keeping it simple.
I had my 2OTL angled a little bit, running diffrent over the axle pipe so it was too close to the PHR, so have to change that. But it would clear fine on a normal sqare fitting muffalr case. This is a good time to get a clean stock SS catback I have fit, I want to hear how thats sounds with the new bigger cams.
TRZ antiroll bar kit is on. Very nice part, I liked the setup alot looking into them.
-lighter then stock they claim? (a soild, stock style one weight a lot more then stock parts. Some of them are like a curling bar)
-great ground clearance
-hidden from the rear veiw.
No fox body with a ARB hanging off the rear end you know can be troble....-unbolts for easy working on the car
-looks trick
say to use a drill but used a carbide burr to grind some of the holes open for the bolts they use. Need to have a longer 4-5inch burr to get to the 2nd hole on the rear. But think it was safer then using a big 5/8 drill bit on a hand drill, upside down under the car on your back. I can see the drill wrapping up in my arms breaking thu only drilled out a little. And you have to grind a little off the Lip off the frame rail. So the spot is flat were the panhard rod brace bolts with the 3 bolts. Everything bolts on, and you weld the end links on. I took the tank out to remove the evap, and gave a ton more room up there.
Only neg I can think of so far, is now you need some bigger standard wrenches to work on the car 3/4 and 15/16, and 9/16s. A cresent wrench works with the TA anyway in your race track tools. I just liked knowing I only needed 7,8,10,13,15,18,21mm to do anything on the car, no big deal i just really like keeping it simple.
I had my 2OTL angled a little bit, running diffrent over the axle pipe so it was too close to the PHR, so have to change that. But it would clear fine on a normal sqare fitting muffalr case. This is a good time to get a clean stock SS catback I have fit, I want to hear how thats sounds with the new bigger cams.
Last edited by studderin; 11-13-2010 at 06:39 PM.
