Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
08-29-2010, 06:59 PM
#282
Air. He lives near me. We can get mineshaft air in the late fall. Everything has to be just right but we can get negative DA in October and November. Lately it has been in the 80's and recently in the 70's but finally the humidity is dropping a bit.
08-31-2010, 04:51 PM
#284
cool pic, thanks
wheels, just driver seat, open headers, non slipping clutch getting mid/low 1.4s, cooler fall air. the 10.6s were during the day, the da wasn't anything that great but better then summer. some guys get -1000-2200s it was only -1foot looking it up online. it went 2 10.66 same day, and a 10.69 the week before, think the da was 800 in a cool ny fall day.
a few weeks ago hottest days of summer, ran some high 10's is the sun during the day. temp was mid 80s it was as 10.90 index class all day in the sun.
a few weeks ago hottest days of summer, ran some high 10's is the sun during the day. temp was mid 80s it was as 10.90 index class all day in the sun.
I'm not a sucker for the twistees though.. i go in straight lines
09-06-2010, 07:36 PM
#288
ya, i pulled the panhard brace off one and went for a ride no diffrent. so its been off same time i trimmed up the gastank heat sheild last year. it's been fine all year, i'll look at it next time i'm under the car. i know a lot of guys on here have had theirs off of 5-6 some maybe 10 years now. but like magnet said its not like we run 17x9 or 18 rim 275,295....315 and wider front tires setups with road race konis and autox the car, or take turns super fast so the tires are sqeelin'. having a lighter car helps alot too, i dont have a 3700lb car thats gona have 4 people in it, thats many x more forces then what i will put on the panhard rod. i did read, i think it was fireball and i think madman too saw on a full weight car, on the body the arms that come down for the phr, and the brace. /removed/ started to bend form not having the brace. and some some mini tube setups were you cut the outside of the body /the oval in this pic/ you should add some support to it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/13522794-post259.html
but/ when i put the trz arb on, it has a big tube thats stronger then the stock phr brace to bolts in the arb mounts off of. so should no no issues with that anmore. but im not worried about not having the brace for my setup.
another thing is when i get my welder to my new place and get the arb in. ithink i can remove some more weight cutting off all the bigger seams for the factory pinch welds in the rear wheel wells. and scraping off the tar at the same time, so i can do some clean welds in there. there is a few areas hat have 1- 1.5 wide metal lip for the spot welds that are 4-5inches long and some longer. cut them out and pinch weld it all up. kind like a mini tub but will all the stock metal.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/13522794-post259.html
but/ when i put the trz arb on, it has a big tube thats stronger then the stock phr brace to bolts in the arb mounts off of. so should no no issues with that anmore. but im not worried about not having the brace for my setup.
another thing is when i get my welder to my new place and get the arb in. ithink i can remove some more weight cutting off all the bigger seams for the factory pinch welds in the rear wheel wells. and scraping off the tar at the same time, so i can do some clean welds in there. there is a few areas hat have 1- 1.5 wide metal lip for the spot welds that are 4-5inches long and some longer. cut them out and pinch weld it all up. kind like a mini tub but will all the stock metal.
Last edited by studderin; 09-06-2010 at 07:46 PM.
09-06-2010, 08:20 PM
#289
kinda like this, anyone done this, any idea how much weight it will save. or know more that its a bad idea. not a ton but just cutting the fat off the car 
whats the deal with cutting the bumpstop metal all out, so you can see the coil. i dont think its a good idea for my car with just a 6point with the rear bars over that aera. i think thats most of the frame in that spot. but a see alot of guys cat it all out with mini tubs.
1st pic is best i could find iof a stock wheel well. the red is were you need to mod for big tires.and was already added to the pic form a few pages back.
2nd pic is paint skillzof the etra pinch weld seams to remove and mig up them flush. ya, no
whats the deal with cutting the bumpstop metal all out, so you can see the coil. i dont think its a good idea for my car with just a 6point with the rear bars over that aera. i think thats most of the frame in that spot. but a see alot of guys cat it all out with mini tubs.
1st pic is best i could find iof a stock wheel well. the red is were you need to mod for big tires.and was already added to the pic form a few pages back.
2nd pic is paint skillzof the etra pinch weld seams to remove and mig up them flush. ya, no
09-06-2010, 08:25 PM
#290
wow that came out like crap, i htink most know what i'm talking about tho. this shows it better, you can see were the spot welds are in the lip were the under coating is removed, it gose all around the inner wheel well.
this is probally the wolfe tub but somthing like this, cut the lip weld it all up.
and the bumpstop metal is gone, agian is that ok to do
this is probally the wolfe tub but somthing like this, cut the lip weld it all up.
and the bumpstop metal is gone, agian is that ok to do
Last edited by studderin; 09-06-2010 at 08:31 PM.
09-07-2010, 07:10 AM
#291
Yea the whole car has that 1+ inch lip on all the panels for the spot welds, if there was a good way to get rid of it and weld it up I would do it too. I can't weld though 
its on my to do list to try and learn it stops me from being able to do so many things!
I have my bumpstops all cut out, I don't have a cage but I havent seen any difference at all on my daily driver in 4 months or so. They weren't as heavy as I thought but not too terrible I removed as much as I could without a plasma cutter and I beleive it was only 3-3.5 per side..
its on my to do list to try and learn it stops me from being able to do so many things!I have my bumpstops all cut out, I don't have a cage but I havent seen any difference at all on my daily driver in 4 months or so. They weren't as heavy as I thought but not too terrible I removed as much as I could without a plasma cutter and I beleive it was only 3-3.5 per side..
09-27-2010, 12:49 AM
#292
getting ready for some changes, for the shootout.
whats the best thing to cut the fender metal. cutoff wheel is gona make a big mess with the car stull together. can you use a sawsall, i'll look for some pics but not sure what to cut on the bottem. would like to cut some of the front end off to get lighter like smufflsx and some of the other fast camonly guys. i was still running all the plastics, and front end metal, just unbolted the support, and the washer bottle
whats the best thing to cut the fender metal. cutoff wheel is gona make a big mess with the car stull together. can you use a sawsall, i'll look for some pics but not sure what to cut on the bottem. would like to cut some of the front end off to get lighter like smufflsx and some of the other fast camonly guys. i was still running all the plastics, and front end metal, just unbolted the support, and the washer bottle
09-27-2010, 07:16 AM
#294
Or, get a big hole saw. You'll get 90% out with that and will still have a little structure left. Cut the frame horns off too, unless you bolt a support up there or something.
Lots left to cut, so get to work
All that plastic can go too, no need to keep that at this point either. I would, keep the back portion of the inner liners, and attach with some double sided tape or the like, just to make sure no rocks get inside the door jamb and then cause you to crack the door opening them.
Lots left to cut, so get to work
All that plastic can go too, no need to keep that at this point either. I would, keep the back portion of the inner liners, and attach with some double sided tape or the like, just to make sure no rocks get inside the door jamb and then cause you to crack the door opening them.
09-27-2010, 08:33 AM
#296
i looked last night, and couldn't find anyone that removed the airdamn and if the car ran any hotter. i know the airdam dose somthing, on a stock car. but when you have no bumper support, ac, washer bottle stuff in the way. not sure if you can be ok with it gone. with the car low it hit all the time, and makes it harder to work on the car. all the openings behind the grills gose into my sux2bu ducts, but i still have my fog light holes. i was going to glue a cover in the inside of them and black out the front. but thing i need them for air getting into the bumper with the airdam removed. i'm thinking about cutting the bottom of the rad. support metal off that airdman bolts to, like tabur unit did, but i dont think he drives his car yet.
i'm not sue if i can cut the wheel wells, i did the wireduct. so dont want all that getting soaked. i'm gona look into how much that covers more. i could do un tuck the harness and run it back inside. but i drilled the bigger 1 1/4 ish hole in front of the pcm for the wires. so would need to seal that up agian, the water will get right on the pcm i think.
plan is cut al least the frame horns, maybe angle them back to cut the most off.
cut the inner fender metal off.
make a legal batter tray/strap
lighter coolent bottle
drill the rest of the hood mounting brakets
remove the hood realse cable.../about done
maybe ditch the airdam
ditch the lower side plastics
maybe cut the wheel wells
install trz anti rollbar
install new lower shock mounts
strange dual rear shocks
new mounts for them.
new lcas
new clutch /old one was ok
stronger trans slip yoke
drag brakes, lca, light spindles. hook me up, you have any.
i'm not sue if i can cut the wheel wells, i did the wireduct. so dont want all that getting soaked. i'm gona look into how much that covers more. i could do un tuck the harness and run it back inside. but i drilled the bigger 1 1/4 ish hole in front of the pcm for the wires. so would need to seal that up agian, the water will get right on the pcm i think.
plan is cut al least the frame horns, maybe angle them back to cut the most off.
cut the inner fender metal off.
make a legal batter tray/strap
lighter coolent bottle
drill the rest of the hood mounting brakets
remove the hood realse cable.../about done
maybe ditch the airdam
ditch the lower side plastics
maybe cut the wheel wells
install trz anti rollbar
install new lower shock mounts
strange dual rear shocks
new mounts for them.
new lcas
new clutch /old one was ok
stronger trans slip yoke
drag brakes, lca, light spindles. hook me up, you have any.
09-27-2010, 08:43 AM
#297
had a lot of guys ask about my driveshaft, and some other things on there car so got some pics.
splines are still fine, 100's of 1.5s and dozen 1.4s, 1.43 best. cheap 20dollar spicer cast yoke
rev xtreme catch can i got used, this spot worked great for the catch can, easy to drain thu the hole cut in the plastics
this is the cheap filter to buy with 3/8 nipples change them every oil change, keep the intake really clean, stops the last of the **** the catch can dosn't.
this is were i have the front of the ta. never messed with it, anyone know if i should change it. not sure if i can get any passes in before the shootout so gona try not to change to much. but never changes this just bolted in in there, and left it
splines are still fine, 100's of 1.5s and dozen 1.4s, 1.43 best. cheap 20dollar spicer cast yoke
rev xtreme catch can i got used, this spot worked great for the catch can, easy to drain thu the hole cut in the plastics
this is the cheap filter to buy with 3/8 nipples change them every oil change, keep the intake really clean, stops the last of the **** the catch can dosn't.
this is were i have the front of the ta. never messed with it, anyone know if i should change it. not sure if i can get any passes in before the shootout so gona try not to change to much. but never changes this just bolted in in there, and left it
Last edited by studderin; 09-27-2010 at 04:43 PM.
09-27-2010, 04:52 PM
#299
ok, ya i don't think i have power for that problem. i mostly hit it with everything it has with a kamakzee launch. i put a little flat in that one side of the ypipe, and can go down a hole for sure, 2 would be 1/8 to nothing gap. but your saying if i got up a hole it makes the ic higher so it pushing the car forword more. thats somthing i think i should try, i know i wheelie way more then it looks it should. just going a quick leap, but it works ok i guess.
i also got the racecraft travel limiters today, i'm not sure about welding them, whats the best spot. i'll look into them more before they go on. but if anyone has any pics post them up, and whats good and bad were the put them. for easy to adjust, but still be out of the way for daily driving.
got the moser yoke, looks like some better metal. smother,tighter casting, no bling heat treat finish or anything. looks to be about a 1/8 shorter of slide then what i had, i'll check the lenght of the u joint center to end, and start of slip yoke. i think i can just change it myself, it had bolt on caps i don't see why i can't
hopfully have some update pics later tonight
i also got the racecraft travel limiters today, i'm not sure about welding them, whats the best spot. i'll look into them more before they go on. but if anyone has any pics post them up, and whats good and bad were the put them. for easy to adjust, but still be out of the way for daily driving.
got the moser yoke, looks like some better metal. smother,tighter casting, no bling heat treat finish or anything. looks to be about a 1/8 shorter of slide then what i had, i'll check the lenght of the u joint center to end, and start of slip yoke. i think i can just change it myself, it had bolt on caps i don't see why i can't
hopfully have some update pics later tonight
