Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
03-07-2010, 01:46 PM
#241
I need that, don't what to melt the tank. And beofre I started putting a tac weld on the exhust clamps, they started pulling apart a little every wheelie. One time the 2OTL popped out the hangers and was hanging over the rearend 
I'm goign to make a alum exhust, and weld some stainless tabs on the heads to keep that from happening.
I just remebed this little free thing I did. I wasnt sure if the shocks were binding yet, I started dailing the suspention in alot better. So I took the split washer off the rear shock nuts, and put it behind the washer. Agaist the bushing, the the washer and the nut. The lower bushing was still tight with the stock style shoulderd stud, but had a LOT more movent, so the shock could work better and not get side loaded. I'm going to weld some tabs on the mounts, maybe a 3 hole deal. So the bolt is the other way, so the shock is free. But that worked alot better, then the lower mount bing all tight stock mout. And was free, look into that if you have stock shocks, or the CE/ summit ones. I bet it will help.
And get the $30 craftmen digital angle gauge, so much better then the pile of **** mag base wheel thing everone has. Way faster, and easier too for getting the * on stuff. It has a hold so you dona have to look at the screen.
http://www.4x4review.com/Reviews/Pro...2/Default.aspx
Got a little more work on the Vic, found out the firewall is close, and you can run smooth bend fitting to the rear of them. Just the tighter 90* fit.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...I/IMG_4273.jpg
I'm goign to make a alum exhust, and weld some stainless tabs on the heads to keep that from happening.I just remebed this little free thing I did. I wasnt sure if the shocks were binding yet, I started dailing the suspention in alot better. So I took the split washer off the rear shock nuts, and put it behind the washer. Agaist the bushing, the the washer and the nut. The lower bushing was still tight with the stock style shoulderd stud, but had a LOT more movent, so the shock could work better and not get side loaded. I'm going to weld some tabs on the mounts, maybe a 3 hole deal. So the bolt is the other way, so the shock is free. But that worked alot better, then the lower mount bing all tight stock mout. And was free, look into that if you have stock shocks, or the CE/ summit ones. I bet it will help.
And get the $30 craftmen digital angle gauge, so much better then the pile of **** mag base wheel thing everone has. Way faster, and easier too for getting the * on stuff. It has a hold so you dona have to look at the screen.
http://www.4x4review.com/Reviews/Pro...2/Default.aspx
Got a little more work on the Vic, found out the firewall is close, and you can run smooth bend fitting to the rear of them. Just the tighter 90* fit.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...I/IMG_4273.jpg
05-25-2010, 02:54 PM
#242
Some guys asking oh this cam is on the street, dook some vid on the way home from the track. It drives really smooth, no bucking and I tired a few times driving in 5th and 6th 900-1300 rpms. The clutch is really nice too.
short vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzO2igxZPOU
long vid
http://www.youtube.com/user/studderi.../0/jzO2igxZPOU
short vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzO2igxZPOU
long vid
http://www.youtube.com/user/studderi.../0/jzO2igxZPOU
06-06-2010, 08:34 PM
#247
The other day looking over a new stockish LS1 a buddy just bought, reminded me about this I did on my car. I dont think I ever post it, but its makes working on the car a lot easier, and save a lot of time. I try to do this on cars I work on alot, drill 2 holes in the PS pulley. So you can fit the a socket and extion thu the hole. I dont know the exact space of the center of the pulley. I just eyeball it and its worked out great the few times Ive done it. Haven't tried drilling it on the car, only with the pulley off. Mark a line across the center of the pulley, and 2 two holes beceause its easy. Keeps it ballenced (if it could be a problem) make them a little diffrent, like 1/2 off the center. So one of them will line up with the bolts behind the pulley. I really sugest to use a unibit for this. I'm sure you can use a 2 flute drill and not crack the pulley. If you had a nice drill press, and know about machining plasitcs and have lots of hours pulling handles on them and Bports. The unibit is failproof, break the edges up on the holes and no problems I know of. Now you can get the PS pump off the head in a few secs with a 13/15mm socket.
and the bottem of the alt braket is cut off, and a shorter bolt. So I could do the "short belt mod" back in the day. with just changing the belt and not any bolts.
and the bottem of the alt braket is cut off, and a shorter bolt. So I could do the "short belt mod" back in the day. with just changing the belt and not any bolts.
Last edited by studderin; 06-06-2010 at 08:45 PM.
06-12-2010, 08:08 PM
#248
Got the new MT 285/60? 16 DR mounted in the stock Z28 rims and got some passes and street miles on them.
The M&H (275/60/16) were staring to show coards, a spining on the street thu 2nd if a did a 1-2 fast. But still would get 1.58 1.59 60's running some low 11's 11.25-11.12 in the summer air and street prep. I ran them for a full year last year and into this year up to this weekend mounted on the car 24/7 Don't have the excte milage but track passes everyweek. And with a spool sence the end of last year, that added killing them fast.
The MT are a lot heavier tire, I posted the weights before somewere. Think there was 7# a tire more then the M&N brand new. Mounted on the 20.9 chrome 5 spokes they feel really heavy maybe ober 50#s? They fit but a bitch to fit, and get the bead to seat. Have some buldge, the tread dosnt look like it uses the side 1/2 at 1st impression. They street drive really nice, and smooth (26-28psi) I checked them after about 75miles and I'm at .160 .170 tread in the middle depth, so I'll keep it up how they wear with the spool. At the track after 1 outing on a non event just TNT night they seam to recover better then M&H. Should get some vids later, one time at 5800 then nuked thu 1st to a 1.9 Best was a 1.57. but some some 1.59s think they still spun a few turns, but recoved (5500-5600 2step) The M&H didnt really recover that fast if I hit them to hard. I can see these better mid 1.5s with some more work. I'll see how these do in the rain, the M&H when they had tread were fine.
There only 27.5 tall, (listed at 27.7) the M&H were a full 28.0 so I have the have the speed changed a little.
The M&H (275/60/16) were staring to show coards, a spining on the street thu 2nd if a did a 1-2 fast. But still would get 1.58 1.59 60's running some low 11's 11.25-11.12 in the summer air and street prep. I ran them for a full year last year and into this year up to this weekend mounted on the car 24/7 Don't have the excte milage but track passes everyweek. And with a spool sence the end of last year, that added killing them fast.
The MT are a lot heavier tire, I posted the weights before somewere. Think there was 7# a tire more then the M&N brand new. Mounted on the 20.9 chrome 5 spokes they feel really heavy maybe ober 50#s? They fit but a bitch to fit, and get the bead to seat. Have some buldge, the tread dosnt look like it uses the side 1/2 at 1st impression. They street drive really nice, and smooth (26-28psi) I checked them after about 75miles and I'm at .160 .170 tread in the middle depth, so I'll keep it up how they wear with the spool. At the track after 1 outing on a non event just TNT night they seam to recover better then M&H. Should get some vids later, one time at 5800 then nuked thu 1st to a 1.9 Best was a 1.57. but some some 1.59s think they still spun a few turns, but recoved (5500-5600 2step) The M&H didnt really recover that fast if I hit them to hard. I can see these better mid 1.5s with some more work. I'll see how these do in the rain, the M&H when they had tread were fine.
There only 27.5 tall, (listed at 27.7) the M&H were a full 28.0 so I have the have the speed changed a little.
06-12-2010, 09:21 PM
#249
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0toBHj6LFFw
1st pass I notice I sometimes slip the clutch a little, like on the street. But I think it might be slipping? sounds like it?????
I was only running out 3rd and coasting
last pass at night was close really fast 700whp bmw went a 10.90 @140, I got a good light 
this has a cool incar form the other car in the 2nd pass, spinning but still moves out. This is my roomates car, 1st time out. Its funny the stock turbo evo roecord is 10.21 @133 same as the LS1 cam only record. I dont think I can get that, but looking to get close.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAsJZqt-e6s
Anyone got any tips for these tires, started at 18 went down to 16. the seamed to like 16.5? I think I should get a auti rollbar?
1st pass I notice I sometimes slip the clutch a little, like on the street. But I think it might be slipping? sounds like it?????
I was only running out 3rd and coasting
last pass at night was close really fast 700whp bmw went a 10.90 @140, I got a good light this has a cool incar form the other car in the 2nd pass, spinning but still moves out. This is my roomates car, 1st time out. Its funny the stock turbo evo roecord is 10.21 @133 same as the LS1 cam only record. I dont think I can get that, but looking to get close.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAsJZqt-e6s
Anyone got any tips for these tires, started at 18 went down to 16. the seamed to like 16.5? I think I should get a auti rollbar?
Last edited by studderin; 06-12-2010 at 09:43 PM.
06-13-2010, 10:06 AM
#251
06-14-2010, 11:17 AM
#252
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+1 all all the great info. I just cannot get how these things can run that fast, cam only. Awesome. I'm getting ready to put my pig thru a diet, but I prole will not go to the extent you did. I say that now, but we will see. Im hoping to hit the 10 sec range, but with a little spray and thru an automatic, I went with an ms4. Thx for the great info and good luck with beating the record.
06-19-2010, 04:35 PM
#255
clutch is fixed????? hopfully.
noticed cruseing around the other day the catch point was RIGHT at the top! Few turns on the masters rod moved it down a little for 1/2 3/4 inch of free play. So now its full relases
I run it set high but havn't been adjusting it for as it wears in a long time. Only got one pass and it rained but it bogged and pulled the motor right down on the DR. So I'm hoping its all good. I beat the crap out of it, haha
it was getto slipper clutch
working on the harness, I started a thread to removing the extra wires. I'll link that and update it. The extra wire bag it getting full
Want to pull the front fenders and cut off the under metal, and cyt the frame horns off. I still have all that stuff. Keeping the door bars still.
anyone weight the brakets for the hood bumpers? and the pop rods? I still have them not being used for anything. free weight.
Or have any pics how it looks with them removed? I'm sure it grey primer under them if I dirll the welds off.
noticed cruseing around the other day the catch point was RIGHT at the top! Few turns on the masters rod moved it down a little for 1/2 3/4 inch of free play. So now its full relases
I run it set high but havn't been adjusting it for as it wears in a long time. Only got one pass and it rained but it bogged and pulled the motor right down on the DR. So I'm hoping its all good. I beat the crap out of it, haha it was getto slipper clutch
working on the harness, I started a thread to removing the extra wires. I'll link that and update it. The extra wire bag it getting full
Want to pull the front fenders and cut off the under metal, and cyt the frame horns off. I still have all that stuff. Keeping the door bars still.
anyone weight the brakets for the hood bumpers? and the pop rods? I still have them not being used for anything. free weight.
Or have any pics how it looks with them removed? I'm sure it grey primer under them if I dirll the welds off.
06-19-2010, 05:15 PM
#256
I forgot too, I still have thr 4:30 gears that was the most gear I could run in the carrier I had with the truetrace. I need to get soem 4:88s or somthing and ride out 4th to 7K, should help on the 60's to. I noticed the other cam only runs run a lot of gear. Can are run as much for max rpm/trap. Plan on keeping the same 3055 S tet drags 28x10.5x15 stiff , I should get a new pair for this fall. I this is the 3rd or 4th year on them. haha
Is there a point you have to much gear (rearend) for 1st (stock) with the t56, and it hurts tracion/ acceleration ?Tim tosto told me the t56 1st sucks for drag racing, is there a point of dismishing returns?
Is there a point you have to much gear (rearend) for 1st (stock) with the t56, and it hurts tracion/ acceleration ?Tim tosto told me the t56 1st sucks for drag racing, is there a point of dismishing returns?
06-25-2010, 09:46 PM
#257
How I got the 28x10.5 slicks to fit WITHOUT cutting the rear bumper, for a stock look.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...8x10-50-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...8x10-50-a.html
