Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
04-10-2011, 11:37 PM
#441
Ya, I'll get the weight on that stuff. And you can remove that plate under the tunnel for the cable splitter, and the metal the handle bolts too.
Ok heres what I did with the Evap, off the biger 5/8 fitting on the T out to a "HELP" power booster filter. another older car valvecover to air cleaner vet tube filter. That I should also have a gas fume safe charcoal filter, and that cheap 3/8 fuel filter I run in my catch can return tube. I few times about a month ago when there was snow out and it would be 25-30 in the garage and I'd put the torpedo heater blowing under the car till it got to 45-50 in there. So the gas tank got warn fast, haven't noticed any gas fumes but I'll see how it is this summer. My roomate has e85 is his trunk fuel cell with a dump tube vent. And you can smell that after 24hrs of not going in the other garage not any big temp changes.
I didn't get total spindles with brakes, but will get those numbers. Onfire (I think it was) posted up the weights of his 4thgen pro2 brakes with cut stock spindles, and his stock spindle with brakes. I post them over here too, to see what that is compaired to the 3rd gen setup.
Stock front rotors 38.2#s pair
Strange pro2 rotors 13.6#'s pair
24.6 savings in the front rotors
And to compare the spindles for the way you bolt the tire on.
Stock uncut spindle with stock ABS hub and 2inch 12mm ARP studs 40.8#'s for the pair
Racecraft 2inch drop 3rdgen style spindles. NOT ultralights, with the strange hub and 2inch 1/2 wheel studs 28.4#s for the pair
12.4 #s lighter going to the 3rdgen style spindles
other pics installed stock PS rack
The drop is right at 2.0. Gona crank the shocks up and see how that is.
Gotta look into this more, Have the space the caliper bracket off the spindle, the bolts are hitting, and its not enough. I have it facing inside like noted, and the rotor spacer is on. I can't put the caliper bracket on the other side of the spindle ears, then you can't bolt the caliper on with the rotor over the holes. I think I saw someone asking this too, I'm was getting tired didn't want to look into it more, only had a few hours after family stuff today. got a few hours to sleep then back out of town for work before the sun come up.
rearend is back out, glad to welded the trz tabs on with it installed getting burned to ****
Get the willwoods off, new gears and spool. And some other lightweight mods.
Doesn't look like my stock 16s will fit
there still the rotor, and a thin spacer till it would seat at the fat nad of the taper hub. But to comes up that short (marks were it hits)
I might grind the hub ring on the rims, but the tierod in looks close to hitting inside the wheel?
Ok heres what I did with the Evap, off the biger 5/8 fitting on the T out to a "HELP" power booster filter. another older car valvecover to air cleaner vet tube filter. That I should also have a gas fume safe charcoal filter, and that cheap 3/8 fuel filter I run in my catch can return tube. I few times about a month ago when there was snow out and it would be 25-30 in the garage and I'd put the torpedo heater blowing under the car till it got to 45-50 in there. So the gas tank got warn fast, haven't noticed any gas fumes but I'll see how it is this summer. My roomate has e85 is his trunk fuel cell with a dump tube vent. And you can smell that after 24hrs of not going in the other garage not any big temp changes.
I didn't get total spindles with brakes, but will get those numbers. Onfire (I think it was) posted up the weights of his 4thgen pro2 brakes with cut stock spindles, and his stock spindle with brakes. I post them over here too, to see what that is compaired to the 3rd gen setup.
Stock front rotors 38.2#s pair
Strange pro2 rotors 13.6#'s pair
24.6 savings in the front rotors
And to compare the spindles for the way you bolt the tire on.
Stock uncut spindle with stock ABS hub and 2inch 12mm ARP studs 40.8#'s for the pair
Racecraft 2inch drop 3rdgen style spindles. NOT ultralights, with the strange hub and 2inch 1/2 wheel studs 28.4#s for the pair
12.4 #s lighter going to the 3rdgen style spindles
other pics installed stock PS rack
The drop is right at 2.0. Gona crank the shocks up and see how that is.
Gotta look into this more, Have the space the caliper bracket off the spindle, the bolts are hitting, and its not enough. I have it facing inside like noted, and the rotor spacer is on. I can't put the caliper bracket on the other side of the spindle ears, then you can't bolt the caliper on with the rotor over the holes. I think I saw someone asking this too, I'm was getting tired didn't want to look into it more, only had a few hours after family stuff today. got a few hours to sleep then back out of town for work before the sun come up.
rearend is back out, glad to welded the trz tabs on with it installed getting burned to ****
Get the willwoods off, new gears and spool. And some other lightweight mods.
Doesn't look like my stock 16s will fit
there still the rotor, and a thin spacer till it would seat at the fat nad of the taper hub. But to comes up that short (marks were it hits)
I might grind the hub ring on the rims, but the tierod in looks close to hitting inside the wheel?
Last edited by studderin; 04-13-2011 at 09:36 AM.
04-11-2011, 05:13 PM
#444
I think they will fit the 5star rims, just have to grind out the little step ID lip. The back has a 45# you can see 2 pics up, the front is only like a .100 step, you can see here.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...cture008-1.jpg
But I think with the billet dust cap the center cap might not fit over it, so I might have to drill a hole in the center cap to fit over the hub? I'm thinking too about just running my prostars/greg welds. With a 28" DR and sportsmen skinny or somthing for street wheels this year. And getting some black alumastar /RTS set of the track.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...cture008-1.jpg
But I think with the billet dust cap the center cap might not fit over it, so I might have to drill a hole in the center cap to fit over the hub? I'm thinking too about just running my prostars/greg welds. With a 28" DR and sportsmen skinny or somthing for street wheels this year. And getting some black alumastar /RTS set of the track.
04-13-2011, 09:41 AM
#448
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...dle-today.html
STOCK BARE UNCUT spindle
stocks cut spindles and 93-02 brake hubs, studs, ready to bolt on.........
So the setup with trimmed stock spindles for 93-02 brakes are 3.6#'s lighter then stock parts
And the racecraft spindles and 82-93 brakes are 12.4 #s lighter then stock parts
STOCK BARE UNCUT spindle
And the racecraft spindles and 82-93 brakes are 12.4 #s lighter then stock parts
Last edited by studderin; 04-13-2011 at 02:47 PM.
05-07-2011, 01:42 PM
#451
ya, But the tierod still hit the rim on 16x8s. as in the last pic of post 441.
I'm gona test fit a 17x8 later today maybe.
strange has stopped selling that front brake kit I bought in the pro2 series. But I got them to fit putting the caliper bracket on the inside on the spindle ears. And ran into the same thing on the rear kit, the alum rotor hat hits. Kinds sucks I have to find out what stuff they sell works. But my gear setup came out mint.
as in the last pic of post 441.I'm gona test fit a 17x8 later today maybe.
strange has stopped selling that front brake kit I bought in the pro2 series. But I got them to fit putting the caliper bracket on the inside on the spindle ears. And ran into the same thing on the rear kit, the alum rotor hat hits. Kinds sucks I have to find out what stuff they sell works. But my gear setup came out mint.
05-17-2011, 03:02 PM
#452
I test fit a 17x8 rim and they don't fit either 
still hit the tierod. Maybe a 20 inch rim or something, but with 2inch drop its not easy to fit the rim barrel over the tierod. But the rotor looks like it will clear the stock LCA, stock drop it hits and you have to notch the ball joint cup.
Rear end it ready to go back in. New gears, spool, bearings. Got the new lower shock mounts welded on, tied them to the LCA reloc brakets. Took some extra weight out too, with some holes. Cut the stock swaybar mounts off. Dont need them with the TRZ setup. I got it a few pounds lighter its 176 as in these pics. Strange steel "lightweight" spool, dana 4:56 gears, non drilled axles, no fuild, and strange backing plates. 1/2-20 3inch studs.
The rear pro2 brake kit dont fit like the front If you install them they way you should the lip in the rotor hat is about .035 into the caliper bracket? I read some others had the same problem. Think I got them to work by putting on of the thin rotor spacers the front brake kit came with in the back. The rotor is spaced out, and caliper fit on the rotor, it not centered perfect. And you can;t shim it to move it over that way to make it any better. Strange said it should be ok, it doesn't have to be right in the middle 100%. I'll see how it in 75/25% spaced. I wish the stuff fit better.
Got the front brakes to fit, putting the caliper bracket on the inside. But I'm not sure if you can do that with other spindles? I think stock cast 3rd gen are way thicker ears?
wheel well done. Cutting the lip didnt weight much, took a while. But a good place to learn how to weld and mod body sheet metal. Lot a lot more room in the front corner for tire room, were the black paint is for the BFH. With the lip cut off, and the arm rest on the inside you can hammer the wheel well really easy FIY.
I didnt think the under coating was gona weight anything, but putting in a bucket its about 4inches filled and weights 5-8 pounds? I'll weight it after I get the other side done, its more then I thought.
started a new project I dont run a spare, so this was just dead space. Left 3/4 lip of the outside to work with lover then the top of the frame rail profile.
Its just under 10 pounds, about 9.6# still have a little more to trim up. Plus the antenna brace, I'll make some smaller then all the stock stuff, I run the shorted one so it dosn't need to be as strong.
Might be getting some CF form a friend, think I can just glue it in? But the frame rail dose about a 22* bend up. Not sure if CF will bend? The other side is a little more work with the gas tank neck.If not I'll have a alum planle made with some bead roll.
I'm keeping the T top well.
still hit the tierod. Maybe a 20 inch rim or something, but with 2inch drop its not easy to fit the rim barrel over the tierod. But the rotor looks like it will clear the stock LCA, stock drop it hits and you have to notch the ball joint cup.Rear end it ready to go back in. New gears, spool, bearings. Got the new lower shock mounts welded on, tied them to the LCA reloc brakets. Took some extra weight out too, with some holes. Cut the stock swaybar mounts off. Dont need them with the TRZ setup. I got it a few pounds lighter its 176 as in these pics. Strange steel "lightweight" spool, dana 4:56 gears, non drilled axles, no fuild, and strange backing plates. 1/2-20 3inch studs.
The rear pro2 brake kit dont fit like the front
If you install them they way you should the lip in the rotor hat is about .035 into the caliper bracket? I read some others had the same problem. Think I got them to work by putting on of the thin rotor spacers the front brake kit came with in the back. The rotor is spaced out, and caliper fit on the rotor, it not centered perfect. And you can;t shim it to move it over that way to make it any better. Strange said it should be ok, it doesn't have to be right in the middle 100%. I'll see how it in 75/25% spaced. I wish the stuff fit better.Got the front brakes to fit, putting the caliper bracket on the inside. But I'm not sure if you can do that with other spindles? I think stock cast 3rd gen are way thicker ears?
wheel well done. Cutting the lip didnt weight much, took a while. But a good place to learn how to weld and mod body sheet metal. Lot a lot more room in the front corner for tire room, were the black paint is for the BFH. With the lip cut off, and the arm rest on the inside you can hammer the wheel well really easy FIY.
I didnt think the under coating was gona weight anything, but putting in a bucket its about 4inches filled and weights 5-8 pounds? I'll weight it after I get the other side done, its more then I thought.
started a new project
I dont run a spare, so this was just dead space. Left 3/4 lip of the outside to work with lover then the top of the frame rail profile.Its just under 10 pounds, about 9.6# still have a little more to trim up. Plus the antenna brace, I'll make some smaller then all the stock stuff, I run the shorted one so it dosn't need to be as strong.
Might be getting some CF form a friend, think I can just glue it in? But the frame rail dose about a 22* bend up. Not sure if CF will bend? The other side is a little more work with the gas tank neck.If not I'll have a alum planle made with some bead roll.
I'm keeping the T top well.
Last edited by studderin; 05-18-2011 at 12:17 PM.
05-17-2011, 06:46 PM
#454
Nice work. Now cut the t top well out and do the same thing on the other side. I wouldn't use carbon, get some thin sheet metal and tack/stitch weld it in there. it will help the rear 1/4 from getting too floppy.
There's alot of weight there to take out isn't there
now, while you have the back of the car apart get a wire wheel and get rid of all the seam sealer while you are at it. I took 18 lbs of it out of my car when I got it all out.
There's alot of weight there to take out isn't there
now, while you have the back of the car apart get a wire wheel and get rid of all the seam sealer while you are at it. I took 18 lbs of it out of my car when I got it all out.
05-17-2011, 07:03 PM
#455
18#s??????????????? really, its foam.
How messy is it with the wire wheel? dose it melt it? I've just been using a stiff putty knife, once you one a layer and know wee the metal is you cut it right on in 2-3inch strips. But got some bloody knuckles right now for some slips. Nothing as cool and punching the inside of your car open handed
How messy is it with the wire wheel? dose it melt it? I've just been using a stiff putty knife, once you one a layer and know wee the metal is you cut it right on in 2-3inch strips. But got some bloody knuckles right now for some slips. Nothing as cool and punching the inside of your car open handed
05-17-2011, 07:27 PM
#457
The stuff is heavy, and there's alot of it in the entire car... trust me. Start looking under the front wheel liners, look under the rear seat, along the floorboards, along the firewall... etc.
And it ***** up and flies everywhere. big mess. But, it's the only way to get it out.
And it ***** up and flies everywhere. big mess. But, it's the only way to get it out.
05-17-2011, 09:41 PM
#458
Staging Lane
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: houston TX
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When you're ready to really get to work with that welder, lemme know and I'll tell ya about 100 more lbs you can get out. it will, require finishing your cage to a 10 pt and going thru the firewall with 2 bars, but in the end will be worth the weight savings, and added safety.
studderin very nice build very informative got a bunch of ideas for when i get home wish i could do a build thread like this but when i get home its get what i can get done as quick as i can before i am off to work again for 2 to 3 months
05-18-2011, 07:46 AM
#459
Big pat shoot me a PM when you have the whole car apart and I can start pointing it out at that point, easier to explain when you can see what I'm talking about.
Not sure if you have that motor you want to run going together yet... but take a look at the one I have listed... may not be a 421, but it's damn close and may suit your needs, for a hell of alot less $ then it would cost you to put something together this I'm sure of.
Not sure if you have that motor you want to run going together yet... but take a look at the one I have listed... may not be a 421, but it's damn close and may suit your needs, for a hell of alot less $ then it would cost you to put something together this I'm sure of.
05-18-2011, 12:02 PM
#460
Staging Lane
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: houston TX
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Big pat shoot me a PM when you have the whole car apart and I can start pointing it out at that point, easier to explain when you can see what I'm talking about.
Not sure if you have that motor you want to run going together yet... but take a look at the one I have listed... may not be a 421, but it's damn close and may suit your needs, for a hell of alot less $ then it would cost you to put something together this I'm sure of.
Not sure if you have that motor you want to run going together yet... but take a look at the one I have listed... may not be a 421, but it's damn close and may suit your needs, for a hell of alot less $ then it would cost you to put something together this I'm sure of.
thats one hell of a motor but i already have my motor together its nothing to special still got stock ported 317s just a starter motor for now all i have left really is a trans and get it all together to get it driveable