Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
#82
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I'm gona let it dry tonight, but I think this might turn out good. I bought some frost king 2x2 gray foam from lowes to use under the hood so you can set it on the roof and not scratch the paint. And put 2 lengths on the rear of the cowl. 6inch from the ends, to clear the driver side wiper arm, and the last Dzus. Not inward a little were the stock rear weather stripping is. The stock hood is like 8inch thick to touch there and its half on the VFN brace rib they have around the hood. But right on the back edge, it touches the cowl trim nice. And should support the back of the hood form shaking around at 80+ speed, and keep some water/leaves and junk out. And 4 little blocks to set the hood on. I tested it and it doesn't hold water at all, it drips right off. Bad thing is it flammable, and melts up. So if it falls off and rest on the headers its gona melt to them. So I just used 2 little 4-5inch lengths and put there were the get pinched then the hoods installed, so they can't "fall off" to anywhere under the hood. 2 hit the sides of the lid, and will protect the windshield. The rear 2 pinch against the top of the shock towers, and the hood strut brackets. You can't use most glues, on foam so I used some 100% silicone sealant in a caulk tube. They look to be stuck under the hood and I'm just gona let them dry there overnight. So tomorrow I just have to take the hood and they should be stuck on. I'll put a thick bead of silicone around them to lock them in better. But don't get any on the top of the hood, its really hard to clean off and paint will not stick to it.
The M and Hs I'm really impressed with. At 30psi cold, they hook in any roll. As low in 1st as you can do, or a 5K roll hammer on it. NO spin The front end just pops up really high and sits there
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
Last edited by studderin; 05-11-2009 at 10:23 PM.
#83
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I updated the tool sizes on post #68 for the rails.
You need a 3/4 unibit. But I only drilled the holes in the hood for the Dzus the 2nd from biggest size thats .681. and put a angle on the top for the underside raduis in the dzus top plate.
You need a box of the 1/8 backer rivit washers (.366 OD .130 ID x.063) for the back of the hood for the soft fiberglass. I did them all with a box of 30 (you need more for a extended hood). I used these under the dzus springs too. it would be better is there were little smaller for the sping ends, .250-.280 OD would sit better. But I couldnt find anything with the .125 ID for the rivit to fit. a 4-40 washer wouldn't work
small rivits there 1/8x1/8
long were 1/8x1/4
you need a .140 (#28) drill for a clearance holes for the lower rail to fenders mounting hardware. And to the front bumper cover ect.
and a good .125 (1/8) for the rivits to be tight. And you when you did rivit the dzus to the hood there cant be differnt then how the fit tightend but not rivited on yet when you test fitting them still.
You need a 3/4 unibit. But I only drilled the holes in the hood for the Dzus the 2nd from biggest size thats .681. and put a angle on the top for the underside raduis in the dzus top plate.
You need a box of the 1/8 backer rivit washers (.366 OD .130 ID x.063) for the back of the hood for the soft fiberglass. I did them all with a box of 30 (you need more for a extended hood). I used these under the dzus springs too. it would be better is there were little smaller for the sping ends, .250-.280 OD would sit better. But I couldnt find anything with the .125 ID for the rivit to fit. a 4-40 washer wouldn't work
small rivits there 1/8x1/8
long were 1/8x1/4
you need a .140 (#28) drill for a clearance holes for the lower rail to fenders mounting hardware. And to the front bumper cover ect.
and a good .125 (1/8) for the rivits to be tight. And you when you did rivit the dzus to the hood there cant be differnt then how the fit tightend but not rivited on yet when you test fitting them still.
Last edited by studderin; 05-14-2009 at 09:18 PM.
#84
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Here ya'll go, a few pics of my Sunoco wide pin on with Racecraft Dzus rails:
![](http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr125/BTLBABY/P1010626.jpg)
![](http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr125/BTLBABY/P1010627.jpg)
![](http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr125/BTLBABY/P1010628.jpg)
![](http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr125/BTLBABY/P1010630.jpg)
![](http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr125/BTLBABY/P1010633.jpg)
VFN FREAKIN ROCKS!! This hood fit awesome!!
Still have the back brackets that go next to the cowl to do. Found the instructions on Racecraft's website, so will try to get to those this week sometime. I will update to ya'll how that goes. If studderin doesn't get to them first.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
-Coleman
![](http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr125/BTLBABY/P1010626.jpg)
![](http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr125/BTLBABY/P1010627.jpg)
![](http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr125/BTLBABY/P1010628.jpg)
![](http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr125/BTLBABY/P1010630.jpg)
![](http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr125/BTLBABY/P1010633.jpg)
VFN FREAKIN ROCKS!! This hood fit awesome!!
Still have the back brackets that go next to the cowl to do. Found the instructions on Racecraft's website, so will try to get to those this week sometime. I will update to ya'll how that goes. If studderin doesn't get to them first.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
-Coleman
#85
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Looks really good![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
I put mine a little more forword, tight like 1/16th. So my little rear ear gaps are like 1/2. yours is centered really good. Wait a few days on the rear brakets if you didnt order them already. I'm letting the silcone dry still on the foam on the rear of the hood. I'll see how much it tightened the hood up, and get some pics.
I was gona say too to guys doing this, maybe just do the 2 outside front dzus. And only drill and use 2 or 3 of the side rails. I dont think unless your going over 140 every pass you need all 14+ of them, and it would be easier/faster/cleaner to have less.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
I put mine a little more forword, tight like 1/16th. So my little rear ear gaps are like 1/2. yours is centered really good. Wait a few days on the rear brakets if you didnt order them already. I'm letting the silcone dry still on the foam on the rear of the hood. I'll see how much it tightened the hood up, and get some pics.
I was gona say too to guys doing this, maybe just do the 2 outside front dzus. And only drill and use 2 or 3 of the side rails. I dont think unless your going over 140 every pass you need all 14+ of them, and it would be easier/faster/cleaner to have less.
#88
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The foam came out great with the silicone, I just put the hood back on, the rear touches pretty good on the sides but were the cowl trim has the open slots with the mesh is pushes in front a little, to support much. And it touches on the front of the lid over the clips, and over the shock towers, so It feels alot stiffer then before. Plus the rear corners set on alot better, the cowl wasn't sagging and spreading wide on the body line. I didnt have to pick up on back of the cowl to lock the duzs, so its doing something. I'll see how it is, after some passes and street miles. But its worth a try the foam is only like $3.30 for a 6ft length in the bag. Your gona need some anyway to protect the roof.
#90
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![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
My LCA angle is only 1* up, still in the middle hole with the IC pretty far out. Now with the new stance. I think I'm gona try the lower hole and move The IC back more and hit them harder (5K fast slip) and see if it hooks. I was doing 3K dump=bog 1.77's. Some 4K fast slips was 2 1.71x 60's and low 7's just running to the 1/8 sence I dont have the rollbar yet. 11.9@ 91 and a 12.0 at 93
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
I did get one 1.67 60 that I rode out the end that was a bunch faster then the car did last year.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)
Im not sure how good/bad that is for 60's for a m6 car on stock rims and DRs ???
Last edited by studderin; 05-14-2009 at 10:28 PM.
#97
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Loks like a nice install.
wounder if you can find the Dzusz\ in a black anodized, or some black nickle?![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)
it should be 11# list on VFN site.
My sunco was listed at 14 and was 14.8
thats what I wanted to get when I was thinking about getting a hood after going over it on paper and it might be 45-50#'s and my stock is bend a little over a headlight. But saw the sunco NIB for $200 I had to jump on it.
wounder if you can find the Dzusz\ in a black anodized, or some black nickle?
![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)
it should be 11# list on VFN site.
My sunco was listed at 14 and was 14.8
thats what I wanted to get when I was thinking about getting a hood after going over it on paper and it might be 45-50#'s and my stock is bend a little over a headlight. But saw the sunco NIB for $200 I had to jump on it.