Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
05-18-2009, 08:48 AM
#122
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Get that new clutch in that thing. But the new clutch may help your 60 or hurt it need to see if you will come out that hard with a 4.30 gear. Cuz from watching your vid your car like to slip the clutch and not dumping it. And mine really likes it if you hold the rpm at 5200rpm and as the clutch is about 3/4 of the way out then putting the gas to the floor and fully letting the clutch out so i just got word my 4.56 gears are on there way with my 28 stiffwall tires hope this fix will help me out.
05-18-2009, 10:54 AM
#124
ya, the 1.66 on DR will be diffrent with a non slipping clutch. That was on a 5K dump, but acted like a slipper clutch lol. No fast slip on my end, Like it will probally need. It would shock the DR to hard and spin them non slipping I bet.
The ETdrags would bog the motor. I'l have to make some changes for sure.
I raced a lot on the stock 245 street tires and Id do a 3K launch rpm ride, to keep it over 3-4K and not bog for the best 1.8, and even some 1.7s. That probally killed it, the Ram 910 disk is bad ***, I looked into it more and alot of guys have gone fast on it. So probally have it rebuilt.
98blue SS, thats gona be a great setup. keep me posted how you do with that. I still have the steel DS S60 ith a truetrac. If I go to 456s, Id put them in a spool (-30) in this s60 or drop another 50-70#'s in a fab9. And sell the S60 that way it is, I have stange 373s for it too.
The ETdrags would bog the motor. I'l have to make some changes for sure.
I raced a lot on the stock 245 street tires and Id do a 3K launch rpm ride, to keep it over 3-4K and not bog for the best 1.8, and even some 1.7s. That probally killed it, the Ram 910 disk is bad ***, I looked into it more and alot of guys have gone fast on it. So probally have it rebuilt.
98blue SS, thats gona be a great setup. keep me posted how you do with that. I still have the steel DS S60 ith a truetrac. If I go to 456s, Id put them in a spool (-30) in this s60 or drop another 50-70#'s in a fab9. And sell the S60 that way it is, I have stange 373s for it too.
05-18-2009, 11:32 AM
#125
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ya, the 1.66 on DR will be diffrent with a non slipping clutch. That was on a 5K dump, but acted like a slipper clutch lol. No fast slip on my end, Like it will probally need. It would shock the DR to hard and spin them non slipping I bet.
The ETdrags would bog the motor. I'l have to make some changes for sure.
I raced a lot on the stock 245 street tires and Id do a 3K launch rpm ride, to keep it over 3-4K and not bog for the best 1.8, and even some 1.7s. That probally killed it, the Ram 910 disk is bad ***, I looked into it more and alot of guys have gone fast on it. So probally have it rebuilt.
98blue SS, thats gona be a great setup. keep me posted how you do with that. I still have the steel DS S60 ith a truetrac. If I go to 456s, Id put them in a spool (-30) in this s60 or drop another 50-70#'s in a fab9. And sell the S60 that way it is, I have stange 373s for it too.
The ETdrags would bog the motor. I'l have to make some changes for sure.
I raced a lot on the stock 245 street tires and Id do a 3K launch rpm ride, to keep it over 3-4K and not bog for the best 1.8, and even some 1.7s. That probally killed it, the Ram 910 disk is bad ***, I looked into it more and alot of guys have gone fast on it. So probally have it rebuilt.
98blue SS, thats gona be a great setup. keep me posted how you do with that. I still have the steel DS S60 ith a truetrac. If I go to 456s, Id put them in a spool (-30) in this s60 or drop another 50-70#'s in a fab9. And sell the S60 that way it is, I have stange 373s for it too.
and N/P i will keep you up to date on what i do. cant wait to see are car get them 10.xx slip's Rob
05-19-2009, 05:11 PM
#126
I noticed my catch point is pretty high, so went to go lower it with my adjustable master yesterday. And its already exsented out all the way, so it just moves the pedal lower now. I remebed I lowerd it back down last year too when the catch point was getting up there. It looks like the disk is worn pretty thin, and the PP isn't clamping to it anymore. The car still drives fine, I'm kinda glad I caught it now, Mike (new era) reminded me how its going to kill itself with heat, and damage things now. This is how they start ripping up, and welding together.
I'm gona put another RAM 910 disk back in with the powergrip HD kit with there PP. Get my ram billet flywheel resurfaced. I'll post up how the disk looks. This was its 4th year of racing on it at least every other week. Tim tosto was telling me it is his favorite street driving /race clutch. He went 9.70s and 1.3 60's on one. And alot of other fast m6 guys have done the same, I'm not sold on the lastest moster hype.
I'm gona put another RAM 910 disk back in with the powergrip HD kit with there PP. Get my ram billet flywheel resurfaced. I'll post up how the disk looks. This was its 4th year of racing on it at least every other week. Tim tosto was telling me it is his favorite street driving /race clutch. He went 9.70s and 1.3 60's on one. And alot of other fast m6 guys have done the same, I'm not sold on the lastest moster hype.
Last edited by studderin; 05-19-2009 at 05:19 PM.
05-20-2009, 09:43 PM
#131
The new wolfe hoop fits alot better, but I had cut down the seat bar to narrow the bottem of the 1st hoop they sent me that was to wide. So it was to short now. It was all 1 3/4 .095 but didn't need to be that big and heavy. The min spec is 1 1/2 or 1 5/8ths and .065 or .083 for that bar, so he made me a new one that legal thats a lot lighter. And I'm gona put it closer to the door bars that makes it stronger then how wolfe places it a few inches under them. The bar has to be level to I think it was 4 or 6 inches under your shoulders in seating postion. 
Came out really nice for welding them quick leaning up on a lift in between parking lot crazyness going on.
I bent the plates to fit the floor better and tie into some other overlapping spot weld flanges. I'm gona make some 4130 tube subframe connectors for the car too. Probally weld a short tube to the bottem of the plates, and have them pass thu a hole under them, and weld thouse to the SFC tube that runs tight to the floorpans. Up in the the rocker lip pockets. Not really just going to the outside lower contraol arm tab on the floor, stupid like most others ones becuse it's a easy place use. But to were the hoop sits, and back to the start of the rear frame channels. And the front to the end of the front frame channels with a out rigger to the rockers were the door bar, I can weld right to them, like the nice wolfe SFC do. I probally should I went over this with nick before I brought him this stuff I fit and tack'd
Got bihind the hoop nice I didn't leave him alot of room, I'm fitting the hoop tight I drive this on the street a ton.
He cut the rear over the seat bars down a little for me too a few weeks ago, ther they fit stronger over more metal. There closer to the shock brakets are welded, thats really strong there. Over being at the end of the 6x6 plates over single layer sheetmetal over the gas tank more. But I'm laving the hoop back a little more then it looks like wolfe notches it for so its not as much if you had it upright more. Your'll see more later
Tried to say he welded it all up like that
local AWD
SUV was out
Came out really nice for welding them quick leaning up on a lift in between parking lot crazyness going on.
I bent the plates to fit the floor better and tie into some other overlapping spot weld flanges. I'm gona make some 4130 tube subframe connectors for the car too. Probally weld a short tube to the bottem of the plates, and have them pass thu a hole under them, and weld thouse to the SFC tube that runs tight to the floorpans. Up in the the rocker lip pockets. Not really just going to the outside lower contraol arm tab on the floor, stupid like most others ones becuse it's a easy place use. But to were the hoop sits, and back to the start of the rear frame channels. And the front to the end of the front frame channels with a out rigger to the rockers were the door bar, I can weld right to them, like the nice wolfe SFC do. I probally should I went over this with nick before I brought him this stuff I fit and tack'd
Got bihind the hoop nice I didn't leave him alot of room, I'm fitting the hoop tight I drive this on the street a ton.He cut the rear over the seat bars down a little for me too a few weeks ago, ther they fit stronger over more metal. There closer to the shock brakets are welded, thats really strong there. Over being at the end of the 6x6 plates over single layer sheetmetal over the gas tank more. But I'm laving the hoop back a little more then it looks like wolfe notches it for so its not as much if you had it upright more. Your'll see more later
Tried to say he welded it all up like that
local AWD
SUV was out
05-21-2009, 09:20 PM
#132
I'm gona try to get the clutch in next week, still driving the car everyday fitting the wolfe a little at a time.
The intior harneses that run back down the door sill plates. Is it better to run the inside the hoop. or outside?
The intior harneses that run back down the door sill plates. Is it better to run the inside the hoop. or outside?
05-22-2009, 09:14 AM
#133
i ran all my wiring to the inside next to the trans tunnel. now it seems that it is never in the way when im working on the car. good luck on your build its lookin good.
05-22-2009, 04:56 PM
#134
The wiring that is on the passenger side is just for speakers. I would run it to the inside of the hoop though (towards the center of the car). If you ran it to the outside and welded the cage in I'm pretty sure you wouldn't be able to get the harness out without doing some trimming. My memory may be off as my interior harness has been sitting in my garage for probably 7 months.
05-23-2009, 08:47 AM
#136
thanks, the passenger side. Is for the speakers on that side, amp, antenna. It's prteey big for just that, I see way alot of guys that did the wiring cleanup said the stock radio was a big chuck, and some weight. I had it disconnected in that pic and looped around the shifter, it back so I have the radio driving the car around.The driver is the seat motor, seat ground, FP ground, the FP, the ABS, dome light, speakers on that side, rear defrost, 3rd brake light on the hatch, hatch popper, tail lights, and plate light. Its about the same size harness, lol.
That one I haven't moved so not sure if it will fit on the outside of the hoop, under the door trim? Going inside the hoop think it could get damaged putting the things back there behind the seat, and make the carpet bunch up?
That one I haven't moved so not sure if it will fit on the outside of the hoop, under the door trim? Going inside the hoop think it could get damaged putting the things back there behind the seat, and make the carpet bunch up?
05-31-2009, 09:58 AM
#138
20 in DR 15 ETdrags
pulled the trans last night, is about 1hr with hand tools, on a lift. Had use gloves it was still hot form getting beat by a foxbody a few times
right before.
clutch looks like it was just wore out. pads are featherd thin, but not flaking. The outside of the disk just started touching rubbing metal to metal making alot of heat and starting to tear up the FW and PP. Looks like a rainbow, I'll try to get some pics today when I get a hand to get the trans back in. I love how easy it is to work on my car, I didnt even get dirty.
pulled the trans last night, is about 1hr with hand tools, on a lift. Had use gloves it was still hot form getting beat by a foxbody a few times
right before.clutch looks like it was just wore out. pads are featherd thin, but not flaking. The outside of the disk just started touching rubbing metal to metal making alot of heat and starting to tear up the FW and PP. Looks like a rainbow, I'll try to get some pics today when I get a hand to get the trans back in. I love how easy it is to work on my car, I didnt even get dirty.
Last edited by studderin; 05-31-2009 at 10:56 PM.
05-31-2009, 10:52 PM
#139
Got the new clutch in and some miles on it. The pedal feels alot softer, witch is wierd. But I checked, and measued everything beofre pulling the old clutch, and the new one. It was just wore out and at the end of the hyds. Had to move the catch point alot.
Got a very low mile slave form a friend so put that in. Pedal bled it really good with some willwood 570 brake fuild. I'll see how that dose. Havn't hit it with the mityvac I'll see if I can get any bubles still, it seams to always find then.
When from sycomesh back to normal non syc ATF. Had some guys tell me they liked that the best. I ran M1 ATF a few years ago, and it seamed fine. The sycormesh was fine too, but you could feel how thicker it was when cold. Till I got a few blocks form my house it would be notchy, and some night at the track after a clean up wand waiting for your round if the trans got cold it would be notchy and didn't feel great.
Got a very low mile slave form a friend so put that in. Pedal bled it really good with some willwood 570 brake fuild. I'll see how that dose. Havn't hit it with the mityvac I'll see if I can get any bubles still, it seams to always find then.
When from sycomesh back to normal non syc ATF. Had some guys tell me they liked that the best. I ran M1 ATF a few years ago, and it seamed fine. The sycormesh was fine too, but you could feel how thicker it was when cold. Till I got a few blocks form my house it would be notchy, and some night at the track after a clean up wand waiting for your round if the trans got cold it would be notchy and didn't feel great.